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Input plz - My attempt at diagrams (2)

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Old 07-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #1
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Input plz - My attempt at diagrams (2)

Lights draw 2.1 amps each
26.88 watts each
So 53.76watts and 4.2amps, correct?
Switch is rated at 20amps

So will either of these work?

This one with an in-line fuse


This one with an add-a-circuit


If I have embarrassed myself please be gentle lol
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:37 PM   #2
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Both will work, they're basically the same thing. If I were you though, I'd use a relay and wire the lights so they go off when the ignition is turned off. Depending on which circuit you tap with the Add A Circuit, this could be accomplished.

Also, the benefit of using a relay is you don't have to run that much power through the switch. Your power would go from the battery, through an in-line fuse, to the relay to the lights. The switch would then only need a tiny bit of power to trip the relay rather than running 4.5 Amps through the switch.
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Old 07-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #3
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How's this?
Seems like overkill.
Just better to be safe than sorry?

These are bed lights btw..

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Old 07-10-2012, 05:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVErsionDesigns View Post
Lights draw 2.1 amps each
26.88 watts each
So 53.76watts and 4.2amps, correct?
Switch is rated at 20amps

So will either of these work?

This one with an in-line fuse


This one with an add-a-circuit


If I have embarrassed myself please be gentle lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVErsionDesigns View Post
How's this?
Seems like overkill.
Just better to be safe than sorry?

These are bed lights btw..

First, there's something going wrong between your two diagrams. I don't know what kind of switch you're using but, assuming your top diagram is correct, you have power going to the bottom 2 leads. If that's correct, you'd need power going to the bottom 2 leads in the bottom diagram also. Also, in the new diagram, you don't necessarily need an add a circuit just to power the switch. The switch only needs minimal power and can be tapped off of an existing circuit like the gauge lights that's already fuse protected and will shut off when the ignition is off (that way the lights will automatically shut off when the truck is off).
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Old 07-10-2012, 05:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
First, there's something going wrong between your two diagrams. I don't know what kind of switch you're using but, assuming your top diagram is correct, you have power going to the bottom 2 leads. If that's correct, you'd need power going to the bottom 2 leads in the bottom diagram also. Also, in the new diagram, you don't necessarily need an add a circuit just to power the switch. The switch only needs minimal power and can be tapped off of an existing circuit like the gauge lights that's already fuse protected and will shut off when the ignition is off (that way the lights will automatically shut off when the truck is off).
I knew the leads were different, I just did it like that so I didn't cross wires in the diagram making it more difficult to read. Thank you for your input. I really appreciate it.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:57 AM   #6
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Okay I have a problem.
It's not a really big problem, I'm just anal about the little things.
When I plug a switch into Diagram #1 the switch lighting is opposite from the switch lighting in Diagram #2.

I would like the switch from Diagram #1 to be like the one in Diagram #2.(switch in Diagram #1 is wrong)

Diagram #2 is not finished because I haven't physically put the lights on the truck and hooked them up yet. They are bed lights and I have decided not to use a relay. Would using a relay fix my problem? Or even just hooking up the lights?

Is it the relay causing the trouble?
Should I try switching the wires on Terminal 85 and 86 on the relay?

I know that the switches are not the problem because I pulled them apart and rebuilt them to be identical several times and when I interchange the switches between the two diagrams the same problem occurs.

You can see the trouble when both switches are in the OFF position in the pictures below.

Here is Diagram #1 and Diagram #2:


Diagram #1/switch #1 OFF:


Diagram #1/switch#1 ON:


Diagram #2/switch#2 OFF:


Diagram #2/switch#2 ON:


I can make the pictures bigger if they are too small to see what's going on.
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:35 AM   #8
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Did your switch come with a wiring diagram or an explanation of what the tabs are supposed to do?

Based on what you've shown, if you hook the add-a-circuit power to 2 and 3, use 8 for power to the relay and 7 for ground, that should work. This would need to be confirmed by either using the wiring diagram supplied with the switch or by using a test light or volt meter and testing for continuity across the tabs with the switch on and off. It appears pin 2 is the power for the upper switch light (the larger light on the switch) and pins 3/8, when the switch is on is continuous and will light up the lower light on the switch.

If you know what kind of switch it is, you could probably find a wiring diagram for it on google, is it Carling or OTTRAW?
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:01 AM   #9
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Here is the diagram for both switches.

They are both carling switches.

I'll test them with a volt meter and see what happens.
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