FX-R retrofit questions.

I've been doing some research, and have been using this guide for most questions.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/212064-hid-retrofit-2009-tacoma-extended-cab-3.html
I purchased Depo lights to work on, so I am ready. I was looking at my kit and I have a couple questions.

One, there are some black rings that seem to clip into the Gatling gun shrouds, I assume to line up the shroud on the projector. This needs to be secured with something like JB Weld, correct?

Second, the shroud I have seems to stick out much farther than the lens of the projector, is that normal for the Gatling gun shrouds?

Lastly, if anyone could post up another how-to thread, I'd love the extra advice.

 

To answer your first question yes the shroud centric rings clip on to the shroud, but year you should still use some JB weld or high temp epoxy.

Second yes the Gatling shrouds do stick out further than the lens, you can trim them down to make them work a little better. I like to take shroud ring an put it on the shroud, then with a perminant marker draw a line around where the ring sets on the shroud and take the ring back off. You should be left with a even line all the way around the inside of the Gatling shroud. I like to then take my dremmel with a cut off wheel and trim that much off.

Lastly... Search there are a hand full of good FX-R retro write ups on here.

I'll post some pics in a sec.

 

Here are some pix of the last retro that I did with the trimed Gatling Gun shrouds.

 

Awesome pics. So some trimming required, I think I can handle that. Sounds too, like JB Weld will be my best friend. I'll try another search, maybe I'm not using the right terms.
Thanks

 

Here are a couple of the better retro threads

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...non-4300k-bulbs-gatling-shrouds-complete.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68126-teaser-hid-retro-part-deux.html

 

Nice. Thanks.

 

One more question I'm hoping someone can answer. I know I need a bi-metal hole saw, but what size? I've read 2.75" and 2.5". Anyone with a little experience that can answer that one please?

 

I have the 2.5 and works great! I haven't herd of a 2.75 but if you want the projector to sit back further...

 

I used the dremel because I didn't have access to a hole saw. Worked pretty well for me. So you've got options.

 

Yosh2000 told me a 2" hole saw would work but I have never done it that way. You can save a few bucks by just using your dremel to cut the hole thats what I have done for all the retros that I've completed and I havent had a problem with it yet. It does take a little more time and there will be a lot of dust from it but it can be done.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll go with the hole saw. If you've ever seen my freehand trimming of drywall for outlets, you'd know why so 2.5" it is. I'll pick it up this weekend, thanks.

 

Alright, next question.

I have the big hole cut in the reflector bowl, and I have the notch for the solenoid. My question is how tight does the back of the projector need to fit to the reflector bowl? I used a 2.5" hole saw and a dremel to notch, but the projector doesn't fit real tight to the bowl. There's some space in places. Around an 1/8" in spots. This gets filled in with JB Weld I assume, but is that much space okay? I will be securing with bolts and nylock nuts too. Just want to make sure I don't have any issues with this down the road.

 

It doesn't matter how much space is there, the bolts should be supporting the light, not the reflector. You can fill the gap with jb weld, or aluminum tape. Below is a link to my retrofit I did back when I had a Tundra. Plan on doing a retrofit on my Tacoma when I get back stateside, definitely a worthwhile upgrade!!! It's been running since 2008 with no issues other than one of my ballasts died. Luckily I had wired everything to be plug and play, so I just bought a new ballast and replaced it.

 

i used a dremel to smoothen out the bumps on the reflector. that way, the projector can sit snugged onto the bowl. see the pics below, hopefully you get an idea of what im talking about.

then fill n the gap with JB weld