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Old 12-17-2012, 09:35 AM   #1
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no high beams

I installed the morimoto mini h1 retro and everything was fine for a few weeks. Recently my high beams stopped working. I checked the fuses and cant seem to find a high beam one? I have an 03 trd
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:45 AM   #2
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Youre the third or fourth that ive seen with this problem. All had the h1 retros too. I have the h1s but they are yet to be completed
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:48 AM   #3
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my wires were cut on mine. so i just soldered the wires back and never had a problem.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:28 AM   #4
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I've been told to check the high beam fuse, does anybody know where that might be? There isn't one in either of the fuse panels
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:31 AM   #5
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I was having the same issue with my H1 retros. What's the issue you're having, do you not have a high beam meaning you cycle the high beam and the low beams stay on or you cycle the high beam and everything goes dark?

I was having both problems and it turns out I had 2 different issues. My controller box failed and now I have a frozen solenoid on my driver's side. TRS sent me the parts to fix the problem. I replaced the controller box but have yet to tear apart my lights again to replace the solenoid.

Once you find the high beam fuse, let me know if it's blown. I can take you through the trouble shooting process TRS put me through to help isolate your issue.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:31 AM   #6
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Check to see if you are getting power to the high beams. I have read of sticking shields on Morimotos but I don't know how much of an issue this is or if it even relates to your projectors.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I was having the same issue with my H1 retros. What's the issue you're having, do you not have a high beam meaning you cycle the high beam and the low beams stay on or you cycle the high beam and everything goes dark?

I was having both problems and it turns out I had 2 different issues. My controller box failed and now I have a frozen solenoid on my driver's side. TRS sent me the parts to fix the problem. I replaced the controller box but have yet to tear apart my lights again to replace the solenoid.

Once you find the high beam fuse, let me know if it's blown. I can take you through the trouble shooting process TRS put me through to help isolate your issue.
I cycle the high beams and the lows stay on. Im honestly not sure if there even is a high beam fuse. Since i don't have drl's all i have under the hood is a right and left headlight fuse, not 2 for high and 2 for low. The only other thing i can think of is my headlight dimmer switch is bad???
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell456 View Post
I cycle the high beams and the lows stay on. Im honestly not sure if there even is a high beam fuse. Since i don't have drl's all i have under the hood is a right and left headlight fuse, not 2 for high and 2 for low. The only other thing i can think of is my headlight dimmer switch is bad???
Do you have a test light for doing automotive electrical work? If so, test for power on your OEM bulb plug. You should have 3 wires, one low power, one high beam power and the last is a ground. Turn on your headlights, you should only have power to one of the pins. Cycle the high beams on, you should have power at a different pin. If not, then your high beam fuse blew. Sorry, I don't have a first gen so I have no idea where your fuse is. Is there a fuse panel under the hood, it should be in there.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:43 AM   #9
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Actually, lets start simple, all the wiring for the kit is complete, correct?

You should have had to assemble the plug for the solenoid inside the projector. When you assemble the plug, make sure it matches up to the wiring harness, red to red, black to black. Double check that everything is grounded. Make sure you have a good connection to your stock wiring harness.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Do you have a test light for doing automotive electrical work? If so, test for power on your OEM bulb plug. You should have 3 wires, one low power, one high beam power and the last is a ground. Turn on your headlights, you should only have power to one of the pins. Cycle the high beams on, you should have power at a different pin. If not, then your high beam fuse blew. Sorry, I don't have a first gen so I have no idea where your fuse is. Is there a fuse panel under the hood, it should be in there.
I do have a test light. But the weather in maine right now is not cooperating so ill have to check the power in the oem plug in a while.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Actually, lets start simple, all the wiring for the kit is complete, correct?

You should have had to assemble the plug for the solenoid inside the projector. When you assemble the plug, make sure it matches up to the wiring harness, red to red, black to black. Double check that everything is grounded. Make sure you have a good connection to your stock wiring harness.
Yes the wiring is complete. The high beams have worked for a while now, they just randomly stopped. I went over all the wires this past weekend. The solenoid goes through the ballast and then the ballast is grounded, so wouldn't the lights not work all together if it were a bad ground? Not trying to sound like a smart ass at all either, just making sure.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell456 View Post
Yes the wiring is complete. The high beams have worked for a while now, they just randomly stopped. I went over all the wires this past weekend. The solenoid goes through the ballast and then the ballast is grounded, so wouldn't the lights not work all together if it were a bad ground? Not trying to sound like a smart ass at all either, just making sure.
It sounds like you have the same exact issue I was having. Mine worked for 2 weeks then stopped. First, you need to find your high beam fuse, I'm guessing it's blown once you find it.

Once you locate that, disconnect just the solenoids, both of them. There's 2 ways to test the solenoids themselves.
get 2 wires with alligator clips on either end, one should have a 5A fuse in it. Ground the black solenoid wire, hook the 5A fused wire between the battery and the solenoid. It should flip down once it's powered. My guess is one of them will blow the 5A fuse meaning you have a frozen solenoid.

If both solenoids work fine, then your next place to look would be the controller box. You can try lightly tapping on the controller box to see if that frees anything up but it's just a system of relays and capacitors so if it's fried, it's fried. I ended up needing a new controller box and a new solenoid.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
It sounds like you have the same exact issue I was having. Mine worked for 2 weeks then stopped. First, you need to find your high beam fuse, I'm guessing it's blown once you find it.

Once you locate that, disconnect just the solenoids, both of them. There's 2 ways to test the solenoids themselves.
get 2 wires with alligator clips on either end, one should have a 5A fuse in it. Ground the black solenoid wire, hook the 5A fused wire between the battery and the solenoid. It should flip down once it's powered. My guess is one of them will blow the 5A fuse meaning you have a frozen solenoid.

If both solenoids work fine, then your next place to look would be the controller box. You can try lightly tapping on the controller box to see if that frees anything up but it's just a system of relays and capacitors so if it's fried, it's fried. I ended up needing a new controller box and a new solenoid.
unfortunately its cold as shit out right now and i wont have a heated garage to work on it in till the weekend so i will re check all connections friday night. and i will check both solenoids straight to the battery then too. Thanks for the replies
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:02 PM   #14
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Also, i looked for the fuse for the high beams again just now, i checked both the panel under the hood and under the dash with no luck. Anybody with a first gen care to chime in on where that sucker is?
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trussell456 View Post
Also, i looked for the fuse for the high beams again just now, i checked both the panel under the hood and under the dash with no luck. Anybody with a first gen care to chime in on where that sucker is?
You should have a relay and then you should have a fuses for each of the left and right headlight in the fuse panel under the hood, the fuses are on the portion towards the front of the truck and the diagram should be on top of the fuse box. I just had an issue with my driver side high beam (mine are still stock) not getting any power. I traced it down to the wire coming out of the fuse box was not hot even though both sides of the fuse tested hot. It ended up being the tabs that squeeze the blade of the fuse was loose so the fuse was powered, but was not passing power through to the wire. All I had to do was pry out the tabs so the fuse fit tighter and everything came back on and worked as normal


Shitty picture I found on google but the headlight fuses are the top left 2 fuses
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr250jumper View Post
You should have a relay and then you should have a fuses for each of the left and right headlight in the fuse panel under the hood, the fuses are on the portion towards the front of the truck and the diagram should be on top of the fuse box. I just had an issue with my driver side high beam (mine are still stock) not getting any power. I traced it down to the wire coming out of the fuse box was not hot even though both sides of the fuse tested hot. It ended up being the tabs that squeeze the blade of the fuse was loose so the fuse was powered, but was not passing power through to the wire. All I had to do was pry out the tabs so the fuse fit tighter and everything came back on and worked as normal


Shitty picture I found on google but the headlight fuses are the top left 2 fuses
i've found those fuses, Since my retro kit plugs into the oem harness on the drivers side, if i remove the right fuse, my headlights go out, so that fuse is working and getting power by. Friday i will check the power in the oem plug and go from there
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
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i've found those fuses, Since my retro kit plugs into the oem harness on the drivers side, if i remove the right fuse, my headlights go out, so that fuse is working and getting power by. Friday i will check the power in the oem plug and go from there
Also maybe try moving the harness over to the passenger side and see what happens
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:33 PM   #18
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First gen has ground switched headlights, and I believe only two fuses for headlights, left and right side. Second gen I believe has left, right, high and low all separated. Second gen is positive switched. Second gen troubleshooting is totally different animal compared to first gen.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:00 AM   #19
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ok pugga. I tested both my solenoids directly to the battery and both work fine. I tried a test light on the oem plug and on low beams i get light on one of the three pins, and when i switch to high beams its still just that same pin. Unfortunately i don't believe there is a high beam fuse on first gen tacomas. Unless its in the steering column near the dimmer switch? ill take the plastic off the column and see if i can find something there
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
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ok pugga. I tested both my solenoids directly to the battery and both work fine. I tried a test light on the oem plug and on low beams i get light on one of the three pins, and when i switch to high beams its still just that same pin. Unfortunately i don't believe there is a high beam fuse on first gen tacomas. Unless its in the steering column near the dimmer switch? ill take the plastic off the column and see if i can find something there
It's a ground switched system. Hook the test light to positive power terminal on the battery and probe the factory plug again. You are looking for a ground, not positive power when high beams come on.
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