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Old 01-23-2013, 02:42 PM   #1
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questions about my new Rigid ind. dully lights

my questions are.... 1 do I need to use a relay for the lights even though there is a fuse built into the wire harness? and 2 will the switch I am looking at work with the female connectors?

this is the switch I am looking at from ORTATTW



these are the switch prongs that came with my RIGID Dully's



these are the female connectors from the wire harness



this is the fuse with in the harness



this is the face of the switch


sorry for the bad quality pictures not to mention how giant they came out... any advice for what I am asking for would be helpful. Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:51 AM   #2
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bump for advice?
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:55 AM   #3
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As far as prong fitment, try to press them on and see if they fit. Worst case, they don't fit and you have to cut the female ends off the RI harness and crimp on the correct ones that do fit the switch.

Even with an in-line fuse, you should use a relay. In line fuses and relays do different functions. My guess is the factory RI harness and instructions to not include wiring instructions for a relay but I firmly believe all accessories should have a relay.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:55 AM   #4
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A switch is not a fuse, which is not a relay. You need a switch, and fuse, and a relay, if you want to do it right anyway.... You could just hardwire the shit everywhere and blow shit up.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadderkdawg View Post
A switch is not a fuse, which is not a relay. You need a switch, and fuse, and a relay, if you want to do it right anyway.... You could just hardwire the shit everywhere and blow shit up.
i know the difference between switches, fuses and relays. im asking if the new switch will work based of the male prongs from my current switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
As far as prong fitment, try to press them on and see if they fit. Worst case, they don't fit and you have to cut the female ends off the RI harness and crimp on the correct ones that do fit the switch.

Even with an in-line fuse, you should use a relay. In line fuses and relays do different functions. My guess is the factory RI harness and instructions to not include wiring instructions for a relay but I firmly believe all accessories should have a relay.
thanks! i am looking into the new switch as i tried modifying one of the factory blanks to fit the switch that came with my RI lights and it didnt work out to well. as far as using a relay i thought i would ask cause the directions that came with my lights say that if i were to install the lights on a 24v system that i use a 24v relay... our trucks use a 12v system right? though you suggest using a relay anyway how would i go about adding it when i install and wire up the lights? is there a write up that you can link me to? thanks again for helping.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09tacorunner View Post
i know the difference between switches, fuses and relays. im asking if the new switch will work based of the male prongs from my current switch.

thanks! i am looking into the new switch as i tried modifying one of the factory blanks to fit the switch that came with my RI lights and it didnt work out to well. as far as using a relay i thought i would ask cause the directions that came with my lights say that if i were to install the lights on a 24v system that i use a 24v relay... our trucks use a 12v system right? though you suggest using a relay anyway how would i go about adding it when i install and wire up the lights? is there a write up that you can link me to? thanks again for helping.
As far as the prongs from the OTRATTW switch fitting, just try to plug them in. Worst case you need some new crimp on fittings, no biggie, they're cheap at any auto parts store.

I suggest using a relay for functionality purposes. Without a relay, the power to control the lights has to go through the switch, then out to the lights. Using a relay lets you control a small amount of power with the switch and the relay controls the full electrical load from the accessory. LED's aren't usually a huge concern since they have lower draw than their halogen rivals.

There are write ups on how to install lighting but it really depends on how you want them to operate. For example, I have my lights on DPDT switches (on-off-on switches) so they come on and cycle with the high beams or come on whenever I want and stay on. I also have them wired to they can not be left of if the ignition is off. Depending on how you want them to work would dictate how you should wire them.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
As far as the prongs from the OTRATTW switch fitting, just try to plug them in. Worst case you need some new crimp on fittings, no biggie, they're cheap at any auto parts store.

I suggest using a relay for functionality purposes. Without a relay, the power to control the lights has to go through the switch, then out to the lights. Using a relay lets you control a small amount of power with the switch and the relay controls the full electrical load from the accessory. LED's aren't usually a huge concern since they have lower draw than their halogen rivals.

There are write ups on how to install lighting but it really depends on how you want them to operate. For example, I have my lights on DPDT switches (on-off-on switches) so they come on and cycle with the high beams or come on whenever I want and stay on. I also have them wired to they can not be left of if the ignition is off. Depending on how you want them to work would dictate how you should wire them.
I am really not going to use them to often so wiring them up special ways isn't needed. basically i would like them to be wired so i can have them be stand alone lights so i can turn them on and off when needed
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09tacorunner View Post
I am really not going to use them to often so wiring them up special ways isn't needed. basically i would like them to be wired so i can have them be stand alone lights so i can turn them on and off when needed
Do you want to be able to turn them on with the ignition off also (which means if you screw up, you could potentially leave them on with the truck off)?
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Do you want to be able to turn them on with the ignition off also (which means if you screw up, you could potentially leave them on with the truck off)?
having them on without the truck ignition on would be nice but more like being able to run them with the headlights and fogs on or just the headlights and the RI's is more what i want for example driving on a dark mountain back road where more light would be needed. does that make sense?
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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For safety sake, just use a relay...not much harder to wire, but much safer.

but...my rear aux lighting i have 2 6" led bars and have them wired with a 10A fuse and a switch that can handle up to 16A...didn't use a relay for them

Front lights i have 2 Hella 500ffs and a small LED flood light and they are all on 1 relay and the same switch
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:40 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris24 View Post
For safety sake, just use a relay...not much harder to wire, but much safer.

but...my rear aux lighting i have 2 6" led bars and have them wired with a 10A fuse and a switch that can handle up to 16A...didn't use a relay for them

Front lights i have 2 Hella 500ffs and a small LED flood light and they are all on 1 relay and the same switch
I'm open to the relay option, just not to good with wiring. the harness that came with my RI's looks easy enough since its pretty much plug and play from hooking up to the battery, connect to the switch, and plug in the lights after mounting them. in order to add a relay to the mix, do I need to splice a wire into the harness to connect to the relay? thats the only part i am confused about.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09tacorunner View Post
I'm open to the relay option, just not to good with wiring. the harness that came with my RI's looks easy enough since its pretty much plug and play from hooking up to the battery, connect to the switch, and plug in the lights after mounting them. in order to add a relay to the mix, do I need to splice a wire into the harness to connect to the relay? thats the only part i am confused about.
Yes, if you add a relay, you would have to modify the RI harness.

Based on your usage, you might like the way I have mine wired. I'm using an OTRATTW on-off-on switch. In the upward 'on' position, the lights only come on when the high beams are flipped on (so they also dim when I see oncoming traffic when I turn the high beams off). The bottom 'on' position lets me turn them on whenever the ignition is on (not tied to the high beams at all, they're just on). If you like that functionality, I can draw up a wiring diagram for you if you'd like.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Yes, if you add a relay, you would have to modify the RI harness.

Based on your usage, you might like the way I have mine wired. I'm using an OTRATTW on-off-on switch. In the upward 'on' position, the lights only come on when the high beams are flipped on (so they also dim when I see oncoming traffic when I turn the high beams off). The bottom 'on' position lets me turn them on whenever the ignition is on (not tied to the high beams at all, they're just on). If you like that functionality, I can draw up a wiring diagram for you if you'd like.
if you could i would appreciate it so much!
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:09 PM   #14
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So, wiring the switch/relay/lights is one thing, but the switch you posted up is only the actuator (cover piece).

That looks like a Contura V series actuator, Which will mount to a V series body (the actual switch).

These switch bodies have more possible configurations than I can name off the top of my head.

That being said, we need to know which switch body you're going to use, in order to tell you how to properly wire it.

Carling contura-v switches will generally have 8 or 10 pins on the back. For the most simple switch (SPST, on/off, no light), you'll only use two of those pins. As the switches get more intricate, you need more pins.

The switch that came with the Rigids is an SPST lighted switch.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Yes, if you add a relay, you would have to modify the RI harness.

Based on your usage, you might like the way I have mine wired. I'm using an OTRATTW on-off-on switch. In the upward 'on' position, the lights only come on when the high beams are flipped on (so they also dim when I see oncoming traffic when I turn the high beams off). The bottom 'on' position lets me turn them on whenever the ignition is on (not tied to the high beams at all, they're just on). If you like that functionality, I can draw up a wiring diagram for you if you'd like.

Have you ever used www.circuitlab.com ?

This might help you show him how you wired yours. (it's free)

You may want to include the part number for the switch body so he knows which one to buy.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:25 PM   #15
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Above is the switch I used (part numbers on top) and the wiring diagram for the switch. You really only need a single pole double throw but the double pole double throw does the same thing, it's just overkill.

Tap into your high beam power circuit, run that tap to pin #6

Find a circuit that is hot only when the ignition is hot (the cigaratte lighter is a good one) and run a tap from that to pin #4

Pin #5 goes to your relay, connect to relay pin #86 and also run a wire from pin #5 to pin #2 (the jumper wire only turns on the corresponding LED within the switch so if the switch is up and the lights are on, the upper LED will be on, when the switch is down and the lights are on, the lower LED will be on. If you want to change when the switch LEDs are lit up, let me know)

Ground pin #7 on the switch to the frame

Ground relay pin #85

Run your power wire with an in-line fuse to #30 on your relay

Run a power wire from #87 on your relay to your lights

Ground your lights to the frame.


Ryan, that circuit program looks awesome! I couldn't get it working on my work computer though, but I will try to draw this up on my personal laptop when I get home.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:33 PM   #16
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Subbed for if I ever get any lights. I like the way you have them wired
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09tacorunner View Post
my questions are.... 1 do I need to use a relay for the lights even though there is a fuse built into the wire harness? and 2 will the switch I am looking at work with the female connectors?

this is the switch I am looking at from ORTATTW



these are the switch prongs that came with my RIGID Dully's



these are the female connectors from the wire harness



this is the fuse with in the harness



this is the face of the switch


sorry for the bad quality pictures not to mention how giant they came out... any advice for what I am asking for would be helpful. Thanks!
switch will work, but you need the relay. it should of came with all of that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake72 View Post
switch will work, but you need the relay. it should of came with all of that.
nope, no relay came with in the box. the directions stated that a relay can be used if mounting to a 24v system. everything that came in the box was the harness (built in in-line fuse) , the switch, and the mounting hardware along with the lights.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post

Above is the switch I used (part numbers on top) and the wiring diagram for the switch. You really only need a single pole double throw but the double pole double throw does the same thing, it's just overkill.

Tap into your high beam power circuit, run that tap to pin #6

Find a circuit that is hot only when the ignition is hot (the cigaratte lighter is a good one) and run a tap from that to pin #4

Pin #5 goes to your relay, connect to relay pin #86 and also run a wire from pin #5 to pin #2 (the jumper wire only turns on the corresponding LED within the switch so if the switch is up and the lights are on, the upper LED will be on, when the switch is down and the lights are on, the lower LED will be on. If you want to change when the switch LEDs are lit up, let me know)

Ground pin #7 on the switch to the frame

Ground relay pin #85

Run your power wire with an in-line fuse to #30 on your relay

Run a power wire from #87 on your relay to your lights

Ground your lights to the frame.


Ryan, that circuit program looks awesome! I couldn't get it working on my work computer though, but I will try to draw this up on my personal laptop when I get home.
thanks so much Pugga! that will definitely be helpful when I get around to wiring up the lights and adding the relay! gonna ask some guys who are local to me that are on here to give me hand just to be safe!
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Old 01-24-2013, 05:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Braking Bad View Post
Subbed for if I ever get any lights. I like the way you have them wired
can't go wrong with getting your hands on some Rigid Industries lights. sure they may be a little on the expensive side but when it comes down to it, they are virtually indestructible, which is a plus side and main reason i bought them! i'm going to add atleast two more duallys and a 10 inch or 20 inch bar in the future!
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