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Old 02-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #21
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Also, I couldn't find any of those crimpers that will crimp the terminal pin things. Is there any issue to crimping them with some needle nose pliers around the wire as long as I crimp pretty carefully?

Matt
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by MGMTacoFF View Post
No, I don't even have tools for soldering. I think I will try to cut the OKLED connecter off of the wiring harness (the OKLED and Blitzpro connecters do not connect) and connect the Blitzpro male into the wiring harness and the female onto the lightbar wire.

Are there any problems to going about this way?

Matt
Id take the harness to a parts shop and try and match the OK harness then to minimize hacking if your not super skilled in it. Looks like a standard Denso connector should be able to find everything for it.

Nothing wrong at all with using the OK harness!

But again, i wouldn't use the Blitzpro connectors. They break easily and i spent probably up to 30mins a connector or longer just tryning to get the pins to line up correctly.

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Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
I think we're better off sticking to crimping. He's got the OK LED connector on his wiring harness and no connector on his blitzpro but has male/female connectors from blitzpro he could attach to harness and light.

Fair enough.

I think he should just go get the male end that the OK harness needs. Would be much simpler.

also on crimping i found the wire on the Blitzpro bar to be much too small for the pins to seat well. So i crimped then soldered every one.

Since he can't solder, he should double up the wire for the pins.

Very simple to do, just trim some more wire back then twist it up again, then fold it back on itself to essentially double up the wire. Will crimp much better.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by MGMTacoFF View Post
Also, I couldn't find any of those crimpers that will crimp the terminal pin things. Is there any issue to crimping them with some needle nose pliers around the wire as long as I crimp pretty carefully?

Matt

yes. Pliers will only flatten the crimp. The right tool literally makes them dig into the wire and clamp to the sides almost.

If you are only crimping, you need to find the right tool.

kinda hard to see..but you can see how they are folded in on eachother..

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Old 02-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
yes. Pliers will only flatten the crimp. The right tool literally makes them dig into the wire and clamp to the sides almost.

If you are only crimping, you need to find the right tool.

kinda hard to see..but you can see how they are folded in on eachother..

Ok, I checked Home Depot and they don't have the style crimper that Max was talking about:



Any other recommendations on where to find one like this?

And what place would be able to get me a connecter that would match up to the OKLED connector?

Matt
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:32 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by MGMTacoFF View Post
Ok, I checked Home Depot and they don't have the style crimper that Max was talking about:



Any other recommendations on where to find one like this?

And what place would be able to get me a connecter that would match up to the OKLED connector?

Matt

read my other post above


But it looks like a standard Denso connector. So really any autoparts store.

if all else fails Napa sells some real nice water tight connectors and will have the right crimpers for them. They are pricey though.

And any other hard ware store should have them, you'll want one that does 16ga wire id would think. Auto stores or other hardware stores should have em.

Im not much help on that sorry, i live in a small small town in the middle of Wy i don't even have a home depot within 100 miles of me. I got most my fancey wiring stuff off WayTech.com
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:35 PM   #26
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Wonder if he could get some toyota or chevy connectors, male and female with terminals from a dealership if he can't find the matching connector? edit: nvm napa has connectors huh?! Sounds like a good deal to me.

For the crimpers...

Check your autoparts stores.

If not, we have a place around here called Sandy's electronics, it's like radioshack but x1000000000.

Might google for something like that around you.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:43 PM   #27
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Ok, I'll check some of the auto parts stores around here on Monday. So if I find a connecter that works, all I have to do is crimp the pins to the lightbar wiring, connect the new connecter to that, connect the male/female, and viola? And is there is anything I need to do with the relay / fuse stuff? Or is it truly "built-in" like the OKLED site says?

I'll PM you guys if I have any more questions after I go out on Monday.

Matt
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:47 PM   #28
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It should be all wired up ready to go. If the relay and fuse are part of the harness and didn't come separate you'll bolt the red and black ring terminals to corresponding battery posts and then run your switch into the cab and the rest to the light. Should even have a fuse in it. Probably 10 or 15 amp.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:51 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMTacoFF View Post
Ok, I'll check some of the auto parts stores around here on Monday. So if I find a connecter that works, all I have to do is crimp the pins to the lightbar wiring, connect the new connecter to that, connect the male/female, and viola? And is there is anything I need to do with the relay / fuse stuff? Or is it truly "built-in" like the OKLED site says?

I'll PM you guys if I have any more questions after I go out on Monday.

Matt

you'll have to mount all the stuff of course and run it through the truck haha

but should just need pluged in. What is the fuse size too?? that bar doesn't pull a ton so don't want too large but to small is bad as well ha

and if you find the right connector that connects to the harness right, you'll just have to crimp on the connector to the blitzpro light then you'll be done.

Keep us posted. More then happy to help
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
you'll have to mount all the stuff of course and run it through the truck haha

but should just need pluged in. What is the fuse size too?? that bar doesn't pull a ton so don't want too large but to small is bad as well ha

and if you find the right connector that connects to the harness right, you'll just have to crimp on the connector to the blitzpro light then you'll be done.

Keep us posted. More then happy to help
The OKLED site says it's a 40 amp relay so it can run other lights, so I don't think one LED will have a lot of draw.

I should be able to do this if I find the right crimper and connecter, and it seems easy if I have the right tools (go figure )

Matt
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:57 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMTacoFF View Post
The OKLED site says it's a 40 amp relay so it can run other lights, so I don't think one LED will have a lot of draw.

I should be able to do this if I find the right crimper and connecter, and it seems easy if I have the right tools (go figure )

Matt
most projects are with the right tools haha

and yea the relay is gonna take it no problem. Its the fuse though. What is in it?
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:00 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Blackdawg View Post
most projects are with the right tools haha

and yea the relay is gonna take it no problem. Its the fuse though. What is in it?
Do I need to put something in it?

This is the OKLED page on the harness.

Matt
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:02 PM   #33
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The relay is like a heavy duty switch. The switch in the cab powers the switch under the hood, the relay, and the relay has all the current going through it to the bar, that way it's not going into your cab and through the switch. The fuse is separate and will blow if there is too much current going through the system, that way you don't melt your wires and cause a fire. That's a VERY unlikely scenario but that's why we fuse things and we do it just above their max draw.
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:04 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by maxamillion2345 View Post
The relay is like a heavy duty switch. The switch in the cab powers the switch under the hood, the relay, and the relay has all the current going through it to the bar, that way it's not going into your cab and through the switch. The fuse is separate and will blow if there is too much current going through the system, that way you don't melt your wires and cause a fire. That's a VERY unlikely scenario but that's why we fuse things and we do it just above their max draw.
Yeah I actually do know what the fuse does (one of the few things I do know...) but the website does confuse me. It says "built in fuse holder." Does that mean it doesn't have a fuse. I can get a close up picture of the fuse box on my harness if you need it.

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Old 02-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #35
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I'd think it would but pop it open and see. If not we can run the numbers and see what rating of fuse you need, should be standard ATC blade style or mini.

edit your light is 54 watts, divided by 12 volts = 4.5 amps I would think a 7.5 amp fuse would be perfect. We'll see what Monty runs.
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:13 PM   #39
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This is what was in the fuse box. It looked like there was a number 30 on top of the green clip. Not sure if that means anything.



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