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Wiring extra reverse lights to switch and preexisting lights

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Old 03-07-2013, 04:01 PM   #21
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Can I use a higher diode with no repercussion? I've got a 4 pin relay, a 5 amp fuse for the switch and a 10 amp fuse for the battery. 16gauge wiring all around should work and I'll get started on this thing. Sound good?
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:28 PM   #22
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Here is a diagram I put together yesterday, it's how I wired my AUX lights, and requires no diode.

I used an SPDT 3 position toggle switch, instead of an SPST switch (type that comes with most aux lights). The switch I have is on (with reverse) -off-on (anytime/acc), with one incoming power from the reverse lights circuit, and one incoming power from a fuse tap on an acc circuit, the outgoing (common pin) on the switch goes to the 86 pin on the relay.

This eliminates the need for a diode, because the two sources (rev/acc), are never connected, as they would be if you connect both sources to the 86 pin directly.

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Old 03-07-2013, 07:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffordBRD View Post
Can I use a higher diode with no repercussion? I've got a 4 pin relay, a 5 amp fuse for the switch and a 10 amp fuse for the battery. 16gauge wiring all around should work and I'll get started on this thing. Sound good?
I recommend a 5 amp diode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan DCFS View Post
Here is a diagram I put together yesterday, it's how I wired my AUX lights, and requires no diode.

I used an SPDT 3 position toggle switch, instead of an SPST switch (type that comes with most aux lights). The switch I have is on (with reverse) -off-on (anytime/acc), with one incoming power from the reverse lights circuit, and one incoming power from a fuse tap on an acc circuit, the outgoing (common pin) on the switch goes to the 86 pin on the relay.

This eliminates the need for a diode, because the two sources (rev/acc), are never connected, as they would be if you connect both sources to the 86 pin directly.

If you wish to use a 3 position switch (which is actually pretty nice) then this is perfect. I wanted mine OEM as possible so I used an additional OEM fog light fuse for my switch so i coulnt do it this way. But nice diagram, if OP can understand it
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProForce View Post
I recommend a 5 amp diode.



If you wish to use a 3 position switch (which is actually pretty nice) then this is perfect. I wanted mine OEM as possible so I used an additional OEM fog light fuse for my switch so i coulnt do it this way. But nice diagram, if OP can understand it
ya...about that diagram...going to need that broken down into laymen's terms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan DCFS View Post
Here is a diagram I put together yesterday, it's how I wired my AUX lights, and requires no diode.

I used an SPDT 3 position toggle switch, instead of an SPST switch (type that comes with most aux lights). The switch I have is on (with reverse) -off-on (anytime/acc), with one incoming power from the reverse lights circuit, and one incoming power from a fuse tap on an acc circuit, the outgoing (common pin) on the switch goes to the 86 pin on the relay.

This eliminates the need for a diode, because the two sources (rev/acc), are never connected, as they would be if you connect both sources to the 86 pin directly.

I'm going to get this switch from www.otrattw.com which is the following:
V6D2UHNB – SPDT ON/OFF/ON –

Green upper LED
Amber lower LED
Both LEDs are independently wired and have separate ground terminals.
This switch could be installed upside down to place the amber LED at top, green LED at the bottom
Seven terminal switch with no rear barriers between the terminals
Use insulated ¼” female disconnects or the VC1-01 connector housing (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)
Verify that a SPDT switch is suitable for your application prior to purchasing this switch. If a DPDT switch is required use the VJD2UHTB or similar VJD model switch.

Once ordered I think I'll be ready to go since I won't need a diode being I'll be using the 3 position switch. I know this isn't rocket science, but just the basics to doing something right the first time...
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffordBRD View Post
ya...about that diagram...going to need that broken down into laymen's terms.



I'm going to get this switch from www.otrattw.com which is the following:
V6D2UHNB – SPDT ON/OFF/ON –

Green upper LED
Amber lower LED
Both LEDs are independently wired and have separate ground terminals.
This switch could be installed upside down to place the amber LED at top, green LED at the bottom
Seven terminal switch with no rear barriers between the terminals
Use insulated ¼” female disconnects or the VC1-01 connector housing (Packard terminals for the rear housing are sold separately)
Verify that a SPDT switch is suitable for your application prior to purchasing this switch. If a DPDT switch is required use the VJD2UHTB or similar VJD model switch.

Once ordered I think I'll be ready to go since I won't need a diode being I'll be using the 3 position switch. I know this isn't rocket science, but just the basics to doing something right the first time...

How are you going to try to wire the light elements of the switch?

The carling switches are kinda interesting as far as wiring the [switch's] lights goes. You definitely went the right direction getting the independently wired lights, though, because the dependent ones would be jumped in a way that you probably wouldn't want, since you're going to be reversing the in/out pins of the switch. The part number you gave denotes a 10 terminal base, but maybe otrattw got rid of 3 of the pins (4,5,6 pins would be used for a dpdt switch, 1,2,3 are for spdt) somehow to make it simple.
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Old 03-08-2013, 11:18 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan DCFS View Post
How are you going to try to wire the light elements of the switch?

The carling switches are kinda interesting as far as wiring the [switch's] lights goes. You definitely went the right direction getting the independently wired lights, though, because the dependent ones would be jumped in a way that you probably wouldn't want, since you're going to be reversing the in/out pins of the switch. The part number you gave denotes a 10 terminal base, but maybe otrattw got rid of 3 of the pins (4,5,6 pins would be used for a dpdt switch, 1,2,3 are for spdt) somehow to make it simple.
Honestly, I have no idea. I am assuming there is 3 pins on the back of the switch, two for power and one for a ground...but they don't have pics of the back of there switches. Guide me in the right direction because I'm supposed to be moving forward but I think I'm moving backwards...
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:50 PM   #27
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Bump for some help with this. Can't seem to find a diode at any local stores.

I've got everything else ready to go.

How do I go about using the 3 position switch with lighting it? I really like the otrattw switches, but didn't know they are more complicated than others.

I am correct getting the SPDT switch, right? Help me, and I'm sure others, complete this simple mod....
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:41 PM   #28
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You can find the diodes at radio shack. They come in a pack of 3 the last time I bought them (year or two ago).

EDIT: Did your switch come with a wiring diagram? If so, that would be the best resource or hooking it up. If not, I would check out OTRATTW's website.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:52 PM   #29
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Ah OK. I didn't want to order it yet without knowing its the exact one I looking for. I'll order the spdt switch which will have on always/off/on with reverse...right?
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:14 PM   #30
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With the spdt switch and the wiring diagram I posted, you will not need a diode.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan DCFS View Post
With the spdt switch and the wiring diagram I posted, you will not need a diode.

X2

I've done this on three trucks now, never used a diode. SPDT switch and a separate pilot light. Would be better to have a fancy rocker switch like some of these guys, but I'm too lazy to sort out which one to order.

In any case, no diode necessary.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan DCFS View Post
Here is a diagram I put together yesterday, it's how I wired my AUX lights, and requires no diode.

I used an SPDT 3 position toggle switch, instead of an SPST switch (type that comes with most aux lights). The switch I have is on (with reverse) -off-on (anytime/acc), with one incoming power from the reverse lights circuit, and one incoming power from a fuse tap on an acc circuit, the outgoing (common pin) on the switch goes to the 86 pin on the relay.

This eliminates the need for a diode, because the two sources (rev/acc), are never connected, as they would be if you connect both sources to the 86 pin directly.

Can someone break down the symbols used in this diagram? I tried to find them online but I don't understand all of them and how they all connect like then diagrs displayed on the first page. Sorry for being such a noon. I really appreciate all the help!
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:15 PM   #33
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They are basically already labeled, but I'll draw you a simple diagram in a few minutes.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #34
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This is the easy to understand drawing... (Hopefully)

Wiring extra reverse lights to switch and preexisting lights-uploadfromtaptalk1365719855238.jpg

And this is the answers to your symbols

Wiring extra reverse lights to switch and preexisting lights-uploadfromtaptalk1365719902609.jpg
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:14 PM   #35
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Gotcha! Time to get it all done! I really appreciate the help!
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:48 PM   #37
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Ok someone draw me a diagram for my front top front 30" light bar to come on with high beams or a switch. I have a feeling I got it right by connected the switch pin on the relay to high beam wire and back to the switch... issue is when I flip my switch in the truck (otrattw) the high beams comes on. Do I need to wire in a diode? And if so where
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:40 PM   #38
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Guys, this is great information. Thank you!

I am doing the same modification to add auxiliary backup lights and will be using the diagram posted above as a reference. However I need a little help.

Can someone please let me know the fuse amperage to be used for the 3 positions numbered in red on the diagram. I am using a set of Rigid Industries Dually LED lights. They are 20 Watts with an AMP draw of 1.45 according to the specifications on the box... I'm assuming this is per light. Would 1 & 2 be 10 AMP and 3 5?

Also can someone confirm the relay pin labeling is correct. One of the diagrams above shows pin 30 going to the auxiliary lights and 87 to the battery source. Another comment in a different post describes the reverse setup. I'm guessing both setups will work since the net result is the same when the current passes through the connection between pin 30 and 87.

Lastly I would like to tap into the reverse light circuit somewhere in the kick panel or door sill in the cab but can't seem to find anything detailing which cable this would be on a 2012. If anyone knows that would be very helpful also.

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Old 01-18-2014, 05:34 PM   #39
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Sub'd for great information
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowrubiu View Post
Guys, this is great information. Thank you!

I am doing the same modification to add auxiliary backup lights and will be using the diagram posted above as a reference. However I need a little help.

Can someone please let me know the fuse amperage to be used for the 3 positions numbered in red on the diagram. I am using a set of Rigid Industries Dually LED lights. They are 20 Watts with an AMP draw of 1.45 according to the specifications on the box... I'm assuming this is per light. Would 1 & 2 be 10 AMP and 3 5?

Also can someone confirm the relay pin labeling is correct. One of the diagrams above shows pin 30 going to the auxiliary lights and 87 to the battery source. Another comment in a different post describes the reverse setup. I'm guessing both setups will work since the net result is the same when the current passes through the connection between pin 30 and 87.

Lastly I would like to tap into the reverse light circuit somewhere in the kick panel or door sill in the cab but can't seem to find anything detailing which cable this would be on a 2012. If anyone knows that would be very helpful also.


Fuses 2 and 3 would be the same amperage (2.5-5) but those circuits will never draw anything close to that. They are fuse taps that control the coil side of the relay circuit, which will only draw about 0.1 amps.

Fuse 1 (going to the 30 pin) is going to be rated for
The amp draw of the accessory (the lights, in your case).

The placement in the diagram I made, with 30 being the hot side, is correct, however reversing the 87 and 30 would have the same net result and wouldn't be detrimental (unless you had a 5 pin relay with an 87a and are using both pins). The 30 pin is generally the pin for the incoming power, and the 87 is the NO output.

When I wired mine, I spliced it into my "backup camera anytime" mod wiring. If you search for that mod on here, there is a location for a reverse circuit in there somewhere.
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