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Wiring LED lightbar to high beams

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Old 07-24-2013, 02:45 PM   #21
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I think this one might work, it's the only one I can find with a pin-out.

V6DAF66B


  • SPDT ON/OFF/ON rocker switch.
  • Two incandescent lights
  • Upper light independently wired.
  • Lower light ON in down position from Terminal #3.
  • Rear barrier between terminals.
  • Rated 20A @ 12V.

Only thing I'm not sure about is the "lower light on in down position from Term. #3"

The other switch I know will prob be best is the V6D2U66B but there is no picture. Waiting for OTRATTW to get back with me.
  • SPDT ON/OFF/ON rocker switch.
  • Two incandescent lights
  • Upper and lower lights are independently wired.
  • Lights have separate grounds.
  • No rear barrier between terminals. VC1-01 rear connector housings and packard *terminals can be used, or use insulated terminals
  • Rated 20A @ 12V.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz View Post
I think this one might work, it's the only one I can find with a pin-out.

V6DAF66B


  • SPDT ON/OFF/ON rocker switch.
  • Two incandescent lights
  • Upper light independently wired.
  • Lower light ON in down position from Terminal #3.
  • Rear barrier between terminals.
  • Rated 20A @ 12V.
Only thing I'm not sure about is the "lower light on in down position from Term. #3"

The other switch I know will prob be best is the V6D2U66B but there is no picture. Waiting for OTRATTW to get back with me.
  • SPDT ON/OFF/ON rocker switch.
  • Two incandescent lights
  • Upper and lower lights are independently wired.
  • Lights have separate grounds.
  • No rear barrier between terminals. VC1-01 rear connector housings and packard *terminals can be used, or use insulated terminals
  • Rated 20A @ 12V.
Single pole, double throw should mean the lights will be 'on' in the direction the switch is toggled. I had to jumper 5 to 2 in order to make my lights work since I bought a double throw. Then you need to ground the switch for the lights to work (ground 6 and 7). I'm not overly familiar with the internals of the SPDT switch though. It's planning on the power coming in, then being separated to go out one of 2 ways. In this instance, you have 2 power sources coming in and one output. Depending on how it's wired, it might not work, you'd need a diagram like the one I have on the previous page to confirm how the internals of the switch work.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
That must be really quick and very, very dirty No need for 2 relays and it is generally not a good idea to run your power for the accessory through the switch. Many switches aren't meant to handle that kind of power and you want to keep the high power in the engine bay, not running it back and forth through the firewall. While your diagram would technically work if everything was properly rated for the power the light bar requires, I wouldn't go that route, sorry.



My ears were burning!



^^ From that thread, look at this post.

This is a DPDT switch, like I used but it can be done with a SPDT also (basically the single pole, double throw switch will only have one side of this diagram and the switch lights will likely be connected internally a little different). For a SPDT, look at numbers 1, 2 and 3. These switches and the diagrams you find online for them assume you're bringing power in from one spot and then it will be outgoing in the 2 on positions. You will be doing the opposite.
On the diagram above:
Pin 1 would be fused power from the battery (I'll come back to this because you don't want the light bar drawing full power through the switch)
Pin3 3 would be your high beam tap (this does not need to be fused since the high beam circuit is already fuse protected)
Pin 2 is outgoing to your relay

On your relay:
85 - Ground
86 - comes from Pin 2 on the SPDT switch (this is what activates the relay to turn on)
30 - fused battery power. What I would do is take power from the battery, run it through a fuse, then split it. One wire goes to the switch like mentioned above, the other wire goes to pin 30 on the relay. That prevents the light bar from pulling full power through the switch.
87 - outgoing power to the light bar.

At the light bar, the wire coming from 87 is your power in so all you should have left to do is ground the light bar itself.

Obviously, depending on the switch you end up using, you might need to tweak what I wrote above but hopefully you get the idea. Once you decide on a switch, post up the wiring diagram for the internals of that switch and I can tell you what needs to be connected where.
Awesome. Diagrams! .

Im gonna try adapting this to the SPDT switch and see if i can get it to work.

Thanks!
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:37 AM   #24
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I talked to OTRATTW and asked them what switch would work best in this situation and they suggested a DPDT switch. The one they suggested (VJD2UHTB) is a 10 terminal switch, I'm guessing bc both lights each have a power and ground since they're independent of each other. Would this work better?
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz View Post
I talked to OTRATTW and asked them what switch would work best in this situation and they suggested a DPDT switch. The one they suggested (VJD2UHTB) is a 10 terminal switch, I'm guessing bc both lights each have a power and ground since they're independent of each other. Would this work better?
I used a 7 terminal DPDT switch and it worked perfectly. The 7 pin DPDT switch diagram is the one I posted earlier and was easy to work with. The 10 terminal could be made to work but is more complicated than you need.

If you're using a DPDT, here's how to make the lights work so they come on when the switch is in that postion:
Pin 4 is incoming power from the headlight circuit
Pin 6 is incoming power from the battery
Pin 5 is outgoing power to the relay and also jumpered to Pin 2
Ground pin 7
Cap pins 1 and 3.

If you want to get fancy, you could take power from the dash and feed it to pin 2 instead and ground pin 7 to the dash ground, that would allow the switches to be controlled by the factory dimmer when the lights are on.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:14 AM   #26
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^ Winner Winner, that's what I will do. Only thing that sucks is that DPDT switch only comes in standard bulbs and I have the contura v rockers.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chipnoreo View Post
Awesome. Diagrams! .

Im gonna try adapting this to the SPDT switch and see if i can get it to work.

Thanks!
one solution:
for the DPDT
Reverse the incoming and outgoing. the Center pole of the switch (2) is connected to your relay/lights. (outgoing) The upper (1) and lower (3) connections choose which power source is going to run your light, either from the hi-beam
(so your lights are street legal, turning off when you turn off your hi-beams) or from a power source (ACC PWR) so you can turn the lights on whenever you want to (Off-road mode).

You can use the other half of the switch to connect the - pole (7) to either (4) or (6) and connect (6) to ground. The down side here is that both the indicator lights would come on when the switch is in your chosen on position.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:25 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I used a 7 terminal DPDT switch and it worked perfectly. The 7 pin DPDT switch diagram is the one I posted earlier and was easy to work with. The 10 terminal could be made to work but is more complicated than you need.

If you're using a DPDT, here's how to make the lights work so they come on when the switch is in that postion:
Pin 4 is incoming power from the headlight circuit
Pin 6 is incoming power from the battery
Pin 5 is outgoing power to the relay and also jumpered to Pin 2
Ground pin 7
Cap pins 1 and 3.

If you want to get fancy, you could take power from the dash and feed it to pin 2 instead and ground pin 7 to the dash ground, that would allow the switches to be controlled by the factory dimmer when the lights are on.
Perfect setup for what he was looking for. Thanks for getting to this for him. I have tried to get the time to look all of this up for him, but have just been swamped. OP, do us a favor if you could and take a few pics of the work and post those, plus the results when you get it. It would be helpful to others who may be looking for doing the same thing on their lights.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Perfect setup for what he was looking for. Thanks for getting to this for him. I have tried to get the time to look all of this up for him, but have just been swamped. OP, do us a favor if you could and take a few pics of the work and post those, plus the results when you get it. It would be helpful to others who may be looking for doing the same thing on their lights.
I gotta give credit where it's due though. My head was spinning when I was trying to get my switches set up like that and PSUTaco85, caribe makaira and Drunknsloth were a HUGE help. I've had that setup for a while now and it's working perfectly!
Installed pic:

What they're controlling:

One switch controls the inside pair, the other controls the outside pair. Up turns them on with the high beams, down turns them on when the ignition is on. So far, so good
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:53 AM   #30
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I wasn't the OP but I'll update when I get this done. My LED bar is already wired to a relay and SPST switch so all I really have to do is run a tap for the brights circuit, split the power for the relay and switch like suggested, and finally swap switches. Should be easy for me. I just wish the bulbs in carling switches were interchangeable. I think I'm going to try and use some adhesive colored tint film on the back of the rockers to give some color to my switches.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:47 PM   #31
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Just remember if you want the highbeam/off/on-by-switch option, you will need a SPST or DPDT switch with the on/off/on switch positions.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:01 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Perfect setup for what he was looking for. Thanks for getting to this for him. I have tried to get the time to look all of this up for him, but have just been swamped. OP, do us a favor if you could and take a few pics of the work and post those, plus the results when you get it. It would be helpful to others who may be looking for doing the same thing on their lights.


Ill put some pics up when i do it! . And im aure everyone else with te same question will too

Thanks a lot guys!
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:14 AM   #33
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Switch came in yesterday.. Will be out of town most of the weekend but If I get a chance on sunday to do it I'll post up the outcome.
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #34
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I'm in the middle of wiring this up at the moment.. I'm confused bc one person said pin 3 is for the high beam tap and another said pin 4. I don't exactly know which wire is for the high beam so I tried all 3 at the 3 prong connector and put one by one on pin 4. One did nothing, guessing it was ground, one made the light bar come on no matter high beam or not, and one had no effect on the light bar but controlled the high and low beam on the headlight. I'm lost? Do I need to be tapping on to a different spot of the high beam circuit?
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Old 08-15-2013, 03:13 PM   #35
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bump...

I also tapped into each terminal one by one on the headlight relay. Then the other side to pin 4. Did not work.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I used a 7 terminal DPDT switch and it worked perfectly. The 7 pin DPDT switch diagram is the one I posted earlier and was easy to work with. The 10 terminal could be made to work but is more complicated than you need.

If you're using a DPDT, here's how to make the lights work so they come on when the switch is in that postion:
Pin 4 is incoming power from the headlight circuit
Pin 6 is incoming power from the battery
Pin 5 is outgoing power to the relay and also jumpered to Pin 2
Ground pin 7
Cap pins 1 and 3.

If you want to get fancy, you could take power from the dash and feed it to pin 2 instead and ground pin 7 to the dash ground, that would allow the switches to be controlled by the factory dimmer when the lights are on.
Are you wired like this ^^

Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz View Post
bump...

I also tapped into each terminal one by one on the headlight relay. Then the other side to pin 4. Did not work.
How do you have things run and which switch did you get?
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Are you wired like this ^^

How do you have things run and which switch did you get?
I have everything ran just like the diagram. Everything on the independent portion of the light works and relay is connected correctly. I just can't get the light bar to come on when the brights are activated. I have the VJD1D66B. Where did you tap into your high beams at?
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:18 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz View Post
I have everything ran just like the diagram. Everything on the independent portion of the light works and relay is connected correctly. I just can't get the light bar to come on when the brights are activated. I have the VJD1D66B. Where did you tap into your high beams at?
I tapped in up by the bulb, I used a tester to determine which of the 3 wires leading to the headlight powers the high beams.
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:55 AM   #39
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I did the same thing, minus using a meter to test.. I just did one by one. One caused the light bar to come on no matter what, one did nothing all together, and one did nothing for the light bar but was controlling the high and low beam on my headlights. I dunno what gives. I do have HID's but I don't know where that would cause any problems.
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:01 AM   #40
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Pugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shedPugga is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Name: Mike
Joined: Jun 2010, #39131
Location: Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWaldz View Post
I did the same thing, minus using a meter to test.. I just did one by one. One caused the light bar to come on no matter what, one did nothing all together, and one did nothing for the light bar but was controlling the high and low beam on my headlights. I dunno what gives. I do have HID's but I don't know where that would cause any problems.
Sounds like you might have an issue with how everything else is wired. At the headlamp, there are 3 wires, one is a ground, one is low beam power, one is high beam power. If you had everything wired correctly, the ground wire shouldn't have done anything, the low beam wire should have made the bar come on when the low beams are on and the high beam wire should have made the bar come on when the high beams are on. It sounds like your issue lies in how the switch is wired. Nothing you have wired should be able to control your headlights, you shouldn't have power backfeeding like that. Something is seriously wrong and you need to recheck your wiring before you cause damage to your electrical system.
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