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How To Wire Hella 500's The Right Way

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by AgMechTacoma, Feb 4, 2014.

  1. Feb 4, 2014 at 2:22 PM
    #1
    AgMechTacoma

    AgMechTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Joey
    Simpsonville/Clemson, SC
    -Fat Bob's Garage Leveling kit -DIY Satoshi Grill -Hella 500 driving lights -BHLM -Black Stock wheels -Reclining Bench Seat Mod -Black Badges -Removed Secondary Filter & Intake Resonator -Hard Wired GPS -DIY Skid Plate -Rear Differential Breather Mod -Sylvania 894 Reverse Light Mod
    This is how I wired up my Hella 500's. When you get these lights, I would highly recommend just tossing the wiring harness that comes with it and making your own with quality parts. Especially the in-line fuse holders. This is my first write up. I wish I had a few more pictures of the process, but I get into a work mode and always forget to take pictures. I'm not going to cover mounting the lights, because there are plenty of other threads about that.

    Here are the basic tools you need. I might have left a few things out of the picture.

    IMG_0535_zpsc93d3f96_308bfc9916f9315af1b6b9eb88838de7180b861e.jpg

    Here are the supplies you will need. There are a few things not included in the picture, like different colors of wire I had. I used 16 gauge wire. I already had the relay from the wiring kit that came with the lights, so I just used that until my Bosch relay comes in the mail.

    IMG_0538_zpsa0324a2d_5abde991bdc47911f90df5f21bb9f5598b5c8e43.jpg

    Here is the fog light switch I ordered. It has the switch, wires, and plug that comes with it. I ordered it from ebay for $70. It was kind of pricey, but it is a genuine toyota part.

    IMG_0537_zps5c44ec01_31edc842a772ed59c3572ba8b94c9d0bc8296030.jpg

    image_zps4084d7be_aa81a9c8a9e676c196e3d9263f1e75c6a3ace50f.jpg

    The first thing you want to do is remove the blank switch covers from the three holes on the left side of the gauge cluster. The easiest way to do this without messing up your dash is to put a wood screw into one of them and pull it out using the screw. Since the switch will take its place, you don't need the cover anymore and you can throw it away. After you have one out, you can pop the others out fairly easily if you reach behind with your finger.

    IMG_0541_zpsca528f60_3d35a5615653c6567429e9aea8fad2f5d0fd6f3b.jpg

    IMG_0542_zps36f0675e_bdf3bf666f1176750fd3b6282891bdc0130f1be4.jpg

    Now you can assemble the switch. First take a razor blade or small screw driver and pop the little plastic clip open on the white plug. Then you can insert the wires into the plug. They only go in one way, so just as long as you don't have to force them in, you know you are putting them in the right way. After all the wires are inserted into the plug close the tab you previously opened. Test to make sure it plugs into the switch securely.

    IMG_0545_zps99c70c49_f35198d2e78b04125d0701a3c1b016fff6c0dfc7.jpg

    IMG_0547_zps6567cd5b_c61d2b002067225bf5ef6b60118b9c74fa8e00bb.jpg

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    IMG_0550_zps0e0205ef_0edd9de5687d3553e00adb5002d33d096ef90f67.jpg

    Here is a picture of the switch in the upright position. Starting from the top going down the wiring is as follow: 1 - Power source for the switch (this can come from the aux fuse box inside the cab or straight from the battery. if you choose the fuse box inside the can the switch will only work when the ignition is on.) 2 - goes to the 85 pin on the relay. 3 - negative feed for air conditioner controls. 4 - positive feed of air conditioner controls.

    IMG_0553_zpsfb19ad28_1c741895c319f3731163457d4e87efa8b0d6765e.jpg

    Now you need to choose your power source for the switch. The best option is probably the fuse box inside the truck, so that the lights can't accidentally get turned on without the key in the ignition. To do this use a fuse tape like the one in the picture for the materials needed photo. This power source will only need a 5 amp fuse, because all it does is supply the power to actuate the relay. It is safe to use the inside fuse box. I chose to tap into the fuse box under the hood, because there was only one available blank fuse in the inside, and that is taken up by my gps power. Either way you need to make sure the blank fuse you are using has power.

    IMG_0539_zpsd1567be9_6069f21e508560581f3f882c7a5a307c157df135.jpg

    IMG_0554_zps0882896a_e90e88d3e5a31ee3fecda047b5298c2c233067f1.jpg

    Now you need to start running wire for your switch. The fog light switch only goes in one position in the blanks (the far left). When you try to insert it, you will see what I am talking about. There are tabs on the switch that have to go into a specific hole. You could just cut out a notch for the tab with a razor blade, but I just chose to use the hole it fit into. Either way you need to run all your wires through the hole you choose. For the switch, since we already covered the top wire. Now we will move on to the second. Run a wire from the second pin on the switch to the 85 pin on the relay. Use a female type spade connector at the end to connect to the relay.

    IMG_0544_zpsf319fe7b_b494fa5a2d18616a7064c167f2e66abdd6b44efc.jpg

    IMG_0564_zpsb965c255_872d60e01b0ef0d08feb33818ff26a442da92138.jpg

    Now for the 3rd wire. This wire goes to the ac controls. Pop the ac control assembly out of the dash using a utility knife, but be careful not to break the blade. The wires you are going to tap into are the green wire and the green wire with a white strip. The green with white strip is the negative, which goes to the number 3 wire. The solid green wire goes to wire number 4. These wires are fairly small, so be careful not to damage them. I chose to splice in a wire and solder them back together and cover with shrink tubing.

    IMG_0543_zpsca61e2e6_9f19d9e6ea965b70254a6713efb31e862070bcf3.jpg

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    IMG_0561_zpsaf6a8e69_1eb26ede6a201bf51a806757d76501c0a87f68cf.jpg

    The best way to get these two wire back to the switch is to run them through a small hole you seen in the front corner where the ac control pull out. It is hard to describe, but this hole is basically the easiest way to get the wires under the dash so you can run them to the switch. There is an opening under the dash that you should see the wires come through. It really helps to have second person for this part to push the wires through while you watch under the dash to make sure they come out.

    IMG_0558_zpsb4508de2_f64d17ad17ae06410b93b37db52cf9d90b18a48b.jpg

    IMG_0560_zpsc657b69c_405beae6a1f2e05d77e45da66fcb77ec6cdc53c1.jpg

    Here is a crappy wiring diagram I made before I started just to have a plan for what I was doing. The main thing is just make sure you have fuses in place, so you don't start a fire if anything was to go wrong. Not sure how well you can see the numbers for the relay, but hopefully it helps.

    image_zps3adbe403_a9ebac0e04d848f78b8701ad82578e7be398b3f7.jpg

    I chose to solder all of my connections, and cover them with shrink tubing. Don't be scared of soldering, it really isn't hard. It just takes a little extra time. It really helps to have an extra set of hands to hold wires for you while you solder though. I don't trust the just crimp style connectors. That is jut my opinion, you do what you want, but I want the strongest and most reliable connection on my electrical work. If you use the crimp connectors, I would suggest at least using the weather proof kind with the shrink tubing that comes with it. For my butt connections I just mesh the wires together and give them a little twist and then solder them and cover with shrink tube. For ring terminals I use the crimp connectors and take off the plastic cover. I then crimp them on the wire and finish it off with solder and shrink tubing.

    image_zpsaa61c575_8e11f12af643be367fc8b5bef5410530e39d7654.jpg

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    image_zpsee2d3472_8c1df168d0662bb0054cc671718d6764fd59bf5a.jpg

    If you do everything right, the led in your switch will light up and dim with the rest of the dash. It will also, obviously turn on your lights. I chose to tidy up all my wiring with wire loom. It protects the wires, and gives everything a more clean and professional look. I hope all this can help someone. I welcome any comments or criticism so I can do better on my next write up :D.

    image_zps225ef15f_57eeaf5e1da08294eee86af17d5570f0c35d48cf.jpg

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  2. Feb 5, 2014 at 8:53 AM
    #2
    paranoid56

    paranoid56 Well-Known Member

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    nice write up. isnt there a extra plug behind that dash area where you can tap into the dash lights?
    also, the only thing i would have done differently is to use a relay plug for the relay instead of the open terminals.
    other then that great job :D
     
  3. Feb 5, 2014 at 8:56 AM
    #3
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    NICE!

    I did pretty much the same thing bro. should be a sticky!
     
  4. Feb 5, 2014 at 8:56 AM
    #4
    AgMechTacoma

    AgMechTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Joey
    Simpsonville/Clemson, SC
    -Fat Bob's Garage Leveling kit -DIY Satoshi Grill -Hella 500 driving lights -BHLM -Black Stock wheels -Reclining Bench Seat Mod -Black Badges -Removed Secondary Filter & Intake Resonator -Hard Wired GPS -DIY Skid Plate -Rear Differential Breather Mod -Sylvania 894 Reverse Light Mod
    I don't know about that plug you can tap in to. I would be interested to find out.
     
  5. Feb 5, 2014 at 8:58 AM
    #5
    AgMechTacoma

    AgMechTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Joey
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    -Fat Bob's Garage Leveling kit -DIY Satoshi Grill -Hella 500 driving lights -BHLM -Black Stock wheels -Reclining Bench Seat Mod -Black Badges -Removed Secondary Filter & Intake Resonator -Hard Wired GPS -DIY Skid Plate -Rear Differential Breather Mod -Sylvania 894 Reverse Light Mod
    Thanks for the complements guys.
     
  6. Feb 5, 2014 at 9:00 AM
    #6
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    x2, the only thing I would have done differently is take power for the switch light from somewhere closer. My SR5 had all the empty plugs behind the blanks, I pulled the wires out of one of those and re-inserted those into the wiring harness I wanted to use.

    Still a great write up though. I'm with you 100% on soldering and heat shrinking all connections, nice to see people still do that :thumbsup:
     
  7. Feb 5, 2014 at 9:15 AM
    #7
    AgMechTacoma

    AgMechTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Joey
    Simpsonville/Clemson, SC
    -Fat Bob's Garage Leveling kit -DIY Satoshi Grill -Hella 500 driving lights -BHLM -Black Stock wheels -Reclining Bench Seat Mod -Black Badges -Removed Secondary Filter & Intake Resonator -Hard Wired GPS -DIY Skid Plate -Rear Differential Breather Mod -Sylvania 894 Reverse Light Mod
    I would have liked to used a power source that was closer, but since I have a base model there wasn't really any options.
     
  8. Feb 5, 2014 at 9:34 AM
    #8
    2stroketrush

    2stroketrush Well-Known Member

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    Great right up! I wish i would have taken the time like you did! I used all factory wiring except the switches and I went with Daystar brand. No problems yet tho!
    The light bar lights and roof lights run off the same wiring harness, just changed out with Quick Connects.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Feb 5, 2014 at 9:40 AM
    #9
    Jon850FL

    Jon850FL is Lurkin'

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    heres mine wired. i have 3 oem switches and a bluesea fuse holder.

    2013-01-13_14-15-08_216_zps7d30528b_c885d0c6d14bf7b79e66a0d05cacedaeebdab8bb.jpg


    2013-01-13_14-14-41_100_zps4257ed02_a118b22eb929d1f553e8196046aa2fe0fb9dfd3c.jpg

    2013-01-13_11-49-06_543_zps4c3639c0_4cd14d5eb3a31d8a5806abc774506775d5de80c2.jpg
     
  10. Feb 5, 2014 at 9:49 AM
    #10
    Gearheadesw

    Gearheadesw must modify

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    No wonder why I hate wiring projects.

    Now I'm back had to go for work. Nice job, I wish I had your skills. I'm super impressed at how nice that looks. I've tried a lighting project on this truck and have failed miserably. I'll study this for about a year and try again. Have some cool lights I got a screaming deal on, want to hook them up, but very hesitant.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2014

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