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Help wiring my auxiliary reverse lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 06toyoboy, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:11 PM
    #1
    06toyoboy

    06toyoboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just recently bought a set of flush mount and installed them in my rear bumper. And i am now stuck with the wiring portion of the install. I want to hook it up too a switch in the cab and i do have a harness for it but obviously its too short. I want to know what size wire i need and how to hook it all up together. Sorry im just a noob with electrical work. Thanks for the help ahead of time.
     
  2. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:14 PM
    #2
    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    I see your in Socal... I provide local install services at a very fair rate :spy:

    If you cant figure it out, let me know :)
     
  3. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:16 PM
    #3
    BulletToothTony

    BulletToothTony You’ll have that on these big jobs.

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    Nothing like charging for help when you could just help a local member for free....
     
    ChemDawg likes this.
  4. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:33 PM
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    immski

    immski Well-Known Member

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    I agree with you, but it is worth it to pay for good work, especially if it is a good rate and you don't know what you are doing. Maybe the rate is a case of beer.:D
     
  5. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:35 PM
    #5
    06toyoboy

    06toyoboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha i know i saw you a few days ago near my house. Buy i let you down once. Dont want to let it happen again
    I dont mind paying for good work.
    I agree. Plus i rather help a member than help some shop.
     
  6. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM
    #6
    DeltaSteve

    DeltaSteve Social Critic

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  7. Jul 21, 2014 at 8:43 PM
    #7
    06toyoboy

    06toyoboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the link.
     
  8. Jul 21, 2014 at 9:02 PM
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    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    Some offer work for free, others charge. If you have a skill that others are willing to pay for then it would make since to use that skill to your benefit. It is a very simple install for some, and very difficult for others. If everyone did things for free then the world would be completely different. You have to consider that I would be spending a few hours of my day on this install (to do it correctly) as well as use personal supplies which are not free to replace and like most I only have 2 days off so these things are not easy to fit into a busy schedule. As most have experienced, my work is well worth paying for, but i take no offense if people would rather find someone who does it free or attempt it themselves. I am fully trained and certified and have almost 10 years of installation experiance. To some thats worth it. But to each their own. Nobody is forcing anyone to pay for my services. I offer custom wiring diagrams for free all the time, but it comes down to the simple fact that if your not good with electrical or do not have the correct tools or supplies, then all the diagrams and free help in the world wont get the installation complete. Some things are worth paying for. I appreciate the feedback though.
     
  9. Jul 23, 2014 at 7:43 AM
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    vanhornsky

    vanhornsky Active Member

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    To calculate the wire size one must know the amount of load on the lights. How many watts are they each. Add them together. Find how many amps it is. (Ohms laws). Then find out how long the run is going to be. For instance 2- 55watt lights = 110watts total at 12.4 volt system that is 9 amps +/- (Ohms law). At 15 feet you would need 12 gauge wire your fuse size should be 10-15 amps. I found the gauge size by a chart located here. http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/...page/Car-Audio-Wiring_Power-Wire_Speaker-Wire
    Also for that kind of power i would consider a relay. To take the load off of the switch. If not the switch needs to handle the 10 amps of power.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2014
  10. Jul 23, 2014 at 11:08 AM
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    jknc

    jknc Well-Known Member

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    I agree with vanhornsky, however you're probably not running 55w lights just for reverse. I used some 18 gauge for mine and no relay for now. The switch I have is rated for 30 amps (AutoZone). I'm probably going to put them on a relay to be safe later.
    azahasa6_d37d923d094ed27c520cba4aa5f33936568f9e65.jpg
     
  11. Jul 23, 2014 at 11:09 AM
    #11
    Smoke

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    Its the guys JOB. its a little different. lol
     
  12. Jul 23, 2014 at 11:39 AM
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    jknc

    jknc Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  13. Jul 23, 2014 at 5:34 PM
    #13
    otis24

    otis24 Hard Shell Taco

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    I can do my own wiring but as I found out it looks like crap and most likely won't work the first time I try it. Next time I'm finding a member here I can pay. I'd like to help with the job as well as learn from them.
     
  14. Jul 24, 2014 at 12:23 AM
    #14
    jknc

    jknc Well-Known Member

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    I do low voltage work for a living so I enjoy installing stuff. Bought some dpdt relays to use for something, just don't know what as of now. Probably more lights but hell who knows.
     
  15. Jul 24, 2014 at 7:43 PM
    #15
    Kilo Kilo

    Kilo Kilo Active Member

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    OP, did you ever get your wiring figured out? I just finished my lights last weekend. Hopefully my wiring diagram might help.

    P1020895.jpg
    P1020897.jpg
    P1020900.jpg
    P1020901.jpg
     

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  16. Jul 24, 2014 at 9:04 PM
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    ProForce

    ProForce IG @proforce.expeditions OB#5411

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    Kilo, that diagram looks good. I see an issue with how RL-4 is wired. Im assuming you connected it correctly during install and were just limited in how you could make the diagram appear but if connected exactly as illustrated then RL-4 will cause issues for you in regards to functionality
     
  17. Jul 25, 2014 at 4:18 AM
    #17
    Kilo Kilo

    Kilo Kilo Active Member

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    Yeah, it's tapped into the driver's side reverse light. The relay is tucked away behind the taillight.

    I should have clarified IGN and REV. IGN is an add-a-tap under the dash in a spare fuse plug, I believe it's actually tied to the headlights and not ignition like I originally planned, but that's fine for me. The RL-4 relay is there so that the lights can only be turned on if the truck is in reverse and I flip the switch.

    Also, I made the diagram using Draftsight which is a free CAD program that works really well. I can change whatever I want on the drawing. What would you change on it?
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2014
  18. Jul 26, 2014 at 9:05 AM
    #18
    jknc

    jknc Well-Known Member

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    Yeah the way I read that with ignition on, you hit switch 3, which trips relay 3, sending power to relay 4, which is tripped by the reverse circuit's power, then turning on the lights. So you'd have to have those three events to trigger the aux lights. You could back up without them on, but could only enable them when in reverse so you don't leave them on driving down the road.
     
  19. Jul 26, 2014 at 9:13 AM
    #19
    jknc

    jknc Well-Known Member

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    When I had the other set wired in that wasn't so bright I had an idea to wire it up where you could toggle the aux lights anytime, and they'd turn on in reverse, by setting the reverse lights and aux lights on a relay triggered by the reverse circuit, and a toggle switch wired in to the lights as well. Just to isolate the reverse circuit from voltage going back. The reverse lights would flip on with the toggle as well, but if you just wire a toggle and the reverse circuit to the lights when you flip on the toggle it will energize the whole circuit, turning on your backup camera and making the ECU think the truck is in reverse when the transmission isn't.
     
  20. Jul 26, 2014 at 11:38 AM
    #20
    06toyoboy

    06toyoboy [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well finished the setup just now thanks to proforce. Will see what they look like at night
     

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