Boost Gauge and Dimmer Switch lighting, need help

I have put in the TRD boost gauge and it works just fine. The problem I have is that I can not get the bulbs to work. I have blown 5 fuses trying to get these to work. I bought, I think it is, sylvania 37 replacement bulbs because the ones in it when I bought it were blown. I tried connecting the lights to the dimmer switch and after a while of troubleshooting that didn't work and now my dimmer switch doesn't work. I connected the bulb wires to the dimmer wires on the back of the stereo (orange-white and orange-black) and that blew a fuse. I tried connecting the ground to two different spots behind the fuse box with the power wire connected to the dimmer switch and I blew a fuse both times. I would really like to get these lights working just because it looks like a dark hole while driving at night and now my dimmer switch quit working. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated!

 

use an add a fuse and tie into something like the washer fluid circuit, windshield wiper, or any other keyed ON fuse.

Its gunna be easier ............. on the second Gens atleast the dimmer is activated by the ground I think........ Its all screwy for us and i ran into issues doing my boost gauge until I did the add a fuse idea and now its flawless.

 

Alright, I'll try that. Any idea on how to get my dimmer switch working again. It wouldn't be a big deal to me if it didn't work as long as my dash lights were bright, but they are only like half way on right now.

 

Id like to take a stab at it and say it maybe a fuse.................. but Im not 100% sure, I think some have fried the switch before.

But Im a second gen and I HOPE I am wrong for your sake.......... Hoping others can chime in

 

I have hooked this up every way I know possible and blown a fuse every single time. I really need help with this.

 

Have you checked the boost gauge to see if there is a short in it without the bulb?

 

How would I go about doing that?

 

Check for resistance between the +12v for the bulb and the ground WITHOUT a bulb in the socket. That will tell you whether there is a short in that circuit.

If it's open, then it's fine. If there is a connection (should read 0 Ohms), then you have a short.

 

On my 1st gen TRD boost gauge I just tapped into the driving light wire for power to the backlight. Turn on the headlights & it came on with the rest of the dash lights.

Been a while but I remember it not being an issue to hook up at all.

Hope you get it worked out.

 

Which fuse do you keep blowing? Sounds like you might have tapped a wire that doesnt have enough juice. I would advise not to go to the dimmer, find the corner light wire and tap that so the gauge turns on with the lights on the first click.

 

the tail 10A fuse in the engine. It connects to the dash lights and corner lights too. I'm going to try connecting it directly to the corner lights and if that doesn't work then I know it's not me doing something wrong.

 

I'm guessing it should be a lot easier than it has been for me. thanks

 

Alright, I'll try that today

 

Both bulb sockets were shorting out. Took them apart and made sure they were no longer touching. There is a certain way the bulbs have to fit in the sockets for them to work. But the good news is that now they work after about 15 failed attempts lol.

 

Glad to hear you got it all figured out. Whenever a fuse pops repeatedly, always check for a short (especially in whatever you just changed last).