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Wiring up secondary driving lights, high beams and independent switch

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 20vmki, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. Sep 16, 2014 at 4:41 PM
    #1
    20vmki

    20vmki [OP] Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20140829_103542_3bafd78ab1c3defa2aeb8589beeabbfe120e6dfb.jpg

    I installed some Rigid D2 driving lights on my bull bar. They are currently wired up to a switch installed by the PO that allows the lights to be turned on with accessory power.

    I would like to wire the lights up as follows:

    1) Lights turn on when the brights are on (either flash or high beams)
    2) Lights turn on when an auxiliary switch is turned on (located on the dash)

    Pardon my bad circuit drawing skills but this is what I came up with:
    IMG_20140916_092756_2de40f856e0ab328c7e784b2ce50c99437a59399.jpg

    The high beam switch in my diagram above would be tapped from the R-Y wire coming from the combination switch.

    headlights_df38428a924d31d6c68b9174e14c3b4d22c424c2.jpg

    In reviewing what I drew I think I have an issue where the driving lights would come on if the dimmer switch was set to high even if the light control switch was off. (If I accidentally push the stalk forward, even with the lights off, the aux lights would come on).

    Is there an easier way to do this that doesn't take two relays?

    Any other thoughts or suggestions?
     
  2. Sep 17, 2014 at 12:34 PM
    #2
    tacoman2000

    tacoman2000 Member

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    Get a 5 pin automotive relay from advance auto or other suitable store and wire:

    1. 30 pin to 12 volt source (direct to battery or other fuseable source if you only want operation while key is turned.)

    2. 85 pin to suitable ground

    3. 86 pin tapped into high beam circuit (tapped from high beam fuse under hood would probably be easiest.)

    4. 87 pin to driving lights (run one wire from the pin directly to positive on one light then just tap the other light one over to it. Ground lights to suitable ground i.e. frame, body panel bolt.)

    5. 87a pin to "load" pin on switch in cab (then ground and power your switch)

    I have Rigid D2's as reverse lights and have where they come on with truck in reverse and on a switch in the cab. I wired mine like this and it works great. Should be the same concept except you're just wanting to tap the high beams instead of reverse like I did.
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2014
  3. Sep 17, 2014 at 3:47 PM
    #3
    20vmki

    20vmki [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks very much for your input tacoman2000. I took what you said and redesigned (it might not be exactly like you said, but close)

    2014-09-17_35f8b412385de0f62d599e31c317b82c49e6e0ef.jpg
     
  4. Sep 19, 2014 at 7:43 AM
    #4
    20vmki

    20vmki [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Up to rev 3 of my schematic. The previous rev wouldn't work because the +12v for the low beams and high beams is the same source, only an extra ground is added to turn the high beams on.

    new_schematic_ee5fa6e03380a4f0251f5ec744035b938e152dae.jpg
     
  5. Sep 19, 2014 at 7:45 AM
    #5
    Large

    Large Red

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    I think it's just easier to flip a switch for LEDs to come on instead of tying a circuit to your OEM lighting circuit. If you bought the right duallies, you wouldn't be able to tell your high beams are on.
     
  6. Sep 19, 2014 at 7:57 AM
    #6
    20vmki

    20vmki [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OME 3in lift, Spidertrax 1.25in spacers
    I agree, it would be a lot easier :) I just like the idea of having them function with the high beam switch while also having the ability to turn them on independently.
     
  7. Nov 11, 2014 at 12:59 PM
    #7
    Biznitch15

    Biznitch15 Well-Known Member

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    Can Anyone help. I have the Rigid D2 I originally installed with the provided relay and switch. No problems there. Straight forward really.

    Now I bought an AOB(air on Board) switch for the D2 lights to have a more stock looking Dash Switch.

    Here's where the problem lies. I don't understand Wiring diagrams and I can't figure out the new install. Help please?
     
  8. Nov 26, 2019 at 7:23 AM
    #8
    CowboyTaco

    CowboyTaco $20 is $20

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    To the question about using a single relay, could you not just connect both the switch for the lights AND somehow connect the high beam (maybe at the fuse) to the same terminal on the relay? That seems like it would be much simpler and still yield the same effect.
     

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