I really like my Lightforce 170's, they work very well as many of you know. I have been thinking of adding more lights, but I was worried about the added strain on my charging system. I started looking at HID's after seeing BruceTS's writeup on adding them to his Hella 4000's. I started researching and found that it was not going to be a "plug and play" event to add them to my 170's, but there seemed to be enough info that I was willing to take a shot at it. The idea of more light while asking less of my charging system was too much for me to pass up. This writeup will cover what is needed to retrofit the lights, not the actual installation of the rest of the HID conversion kit.
I should also say that this writeup should also work for the 240 Blitz lights as they use the same housing.
* Lightforce 170 Strikers or 240 Blitz
* 35watt H3 HID conversion kit
* 4 #8 screws (32 thread count) 3/8" long
* 4 #8 lock washers
* Nitrile Gloves (or something similar)
* Dremel and bit for removing aluminum material
* Cordless Drill
* 1/8" drill bit
* #8 32NC Drill and Tap set
* Rivet Gun and rivets
* 3/4" grommet with membrane (or other means to seal the rear of the housings)
* Lubricant for drill and tap and dremel bit
* Wire cutters
* Screwdrivers (for prying rivets and depending on what #8 screws you have)
* Vice press (optional but very useful for holding the heatsink while you work on it)
* 3/4" hole saw
* Optional- some kind of sealer to seal up the rear of the housing. I used Lexel and a caulking gun
I am providing this write up for illustrative purposes only. Perform at your own risk. Any mods (including this one) you perform on your lights is your responsibility. These lights are not cheap, so take that into consideration. You’ve been warned.
Procedure: *Do not touch the HID bulb during this process!*
Step 1. Remove filter, lense, and bulb.
Remove filter and lense by turning the lense counterclockwise till it comes off the housing, being careful to not break the bulb when it comes off the housing.
Remove bulb by grasping the base of the bulb and pulling straight out.
Step 2: Remove heatsink from housing.
Using wire cutters clip the connectors off the wires coming out the rear of the housing so that they can be pulled through when you pull the heatsink out.
Using the 1/8" drill bit, drill out the rivet on the side of the housing that holds the aluminum heatsink. Once the rivet is out, remove the heatsink from the housing.
Step 3: Remove the bulb housing from the heatsink.
Drill out the two rivets that hold the bulb housing in the heatsink and remove the bulb housing from the heatsink.
Step 4: Mark heatsink to fit H3 bulb
Place heatsink back into housing, making sure to line the rivet hole up with the hole in the housing. Now mark the center line top and bottom on the front of the heatsink.
Measure the rear of the H3 bulb assembly to see how much material you will have to remove from the heatsink for the bulb to be placed from the front of the heatsink. Now mark where you will have to remove material on the heatsink (remember, it is safer to be on the small side so that you do not remove too much material)
See the pic below in the "drill and tap" step to see what material I removed.
Step 5: Clearance heatsink to fit H3 bulb assembly.
Using the dremel remove material from the heatsink, till you are able to get the bulb assembly flat against the heatsink. Mine only needed a little off the middle top and then a little more on the bottom middle.