If you're going to do this mod it's probably a good idea to read up on vehicle codes for your State. If you have DTRL and you perform this mod, the LED's will behave the same way because it's the same circuit.
Parts for the mod
- 2 x 12v LED modules yellow (waterproof)
- 12' split wire loom
- vinyl electrical tape.
- solder and soldering iron
- 12' hookup wire
- wire stripping tool
- Liquid Tape
- 4 x quick splices
Solder the leads of the LED module to 6' of hookup wire. I state 6' but when everything is said and done your new harness will probably use 5' of wire. Protect the connections with heat-shrink and then a couple coats of liquid tape, which should make the connection waterproof.
Next put the wire into split wire loom. Leave the LED with about 3" of wire out one end. Wrap the split wire loom with the vinyl electrical tape.
Now, take the end of the harness with the LED on it. You will want to seal the end of the split wire loom with liquid tape. This should make it impervious to water. Stuff some material into the end of split wire loom to build a base if you want to. I found a rubber grommet that worked well but anything should do. Now apply liberally several coats of liquid tape. Read the bottle for instructions. When it cures it will be waterproof.
Step #2 Prepare your truck
Open your drivers side door and look at the weather stripping between the body and front quarter panel. Grab it at the top and peel this back so you can make a passageway between the door hinge and the top of the engine bay. It's actually pretty perfect (the route of the harness).
Next protect the LED with some vinyl tape during install. Route your new wire harness accordingly. To get the LED module to the door hinge area through the engine bay you'll need a pull/push stick. I used a very stiff wire as a push stick.
Push the LED to its location and remove the stick.
I used some alcohol to clean the paint and when it vaporized I affixed the LED to the trucks surface just below the first crease in the fender.
The LED comes with 3M adhesive tape so its very durable and well suited for an exterior connection.
Once the LED is mounted push the excess wire and wire harness behind the weather stripping. Pull the excess back into the engine bay if you have to. Now push back the weather stripping back into it's original location. You should now have about 1.5" of black wire that pokes around the weather stripping. It should look super clean.
Step #2 Splice into the factory harness.
Locate the factory harness for your turn signal.
Unravel the electrical tape and expose the wires.
The blue is +12V and the black/white is ground. Tap into the wires. I used a quick splice but before I put the wires into it, I dropped a bunch of liquid tape into it before I pressed the connection closed. When it cures I presume this would make it waterproof. It was a bit messy but it worked. I had some 2" split wire loom laying around and I used about 6" to protect my splices, I then sealed it up with a fresh wrap of vinyl tape. It looks bombproof.
Step #3 Test your new side turn signal.
The hazard switch is a good way to test your new turn signals. Hopefully all is good.
Step #4 Repeat on the passenger side.
Here is a picture of the passenger side aux / side marker wire harness wire path.
My camera does not do well in the dark...
I'd like to thank Wing103 for his willingness to share long after he'd completed his mod.
LED module uses 6 PLCC-2 style surface mount LEDs with a wide 110 degree viewing angle. Specs: Current draw: 80 mA Length: 2.25", Width:0.375", Height:0.25"
They're very bright and I'm very happy with them.
UPDATE JULY 2010
After several months of lots of sunshine and lots of 100° F + heat I can tell you that the LED's are holding up very well. They have yellowed slightly due to the UV exposure, but I expect them to be fine.
UPDATE JULY 2012
After two years they're still working like the first day I installed them.
Here are some more pictures of the finished product.