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-   -   2011 Tacoma SR5 Fog Light Installation.. Need some help Please. (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/272165-2011-tacoma-sr5-fog-light-installation-need-some-help-please.html)

barcapopo 04-07-2013 02:40 PM

2011 Tacoma SR5 Fog Light Installation.. Need some help Please.
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hey guys, need a little help getting some aftermarket oem lights installed. Bought these off ebay.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Smoke-Lens-Fo...d3440e&vxp=mtr

I looked throughout the bumper , under the hood and do not see any pre wiring done for my truck. I have a 2011 Tacoma SR5 V6. Within my fuse box there is no relay installed. My kit that I purchased has switch, relay, harness, bulbs, housing. I have popped the switch cover off and there is wiring and a connector of where my fog light switch should go. The switch that was provided in kit has a different connection type. Would this be the only pre wiring that was done? Do i need to use that connection or can I use the one in my kit.
Secondly, I'm having troubles finding where 2 other connections go with my provided wiring plz look at attached photos A /B. Really appreciate any help. Thanks guys!!

t_e 04-07-2013 02:48 PM

If you have the plug behind the blank you are prewired. The fog light connection should be taped up to the harness up behind the fog light locations. That relay will not work in the factory location, you need the Toyota relay.

Pugga 04-07-2013 03:00 PM

There were probably instructions that came with the kit, no?

It looks like the white wire is a ground wire, tap that to a ground wire or put a loop connector on the end and ground it. The red wire is the 'trigger' wire. If you want stock function, tap it to the low beam power wire. Confirm this with the instructions that came with the kit. It will not use the stock wiring, you have a DIY, start from scratch kit.

Those connectors suck BTW and can damage the host wire. You live in an area where they salt the roads so I would recommend spicing in the right way, solder and heat shrink rather than those vampire clips. If you do use the vampire clip, make sure you wrap the splice up well with electrical tape to keep moisture and salt out or the wire will corrode.

barcapopo 04-07-2013 03:22 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Ive looked everywhere, there are no wires anywhere behind bumper etc I took dummy fog lights out - nothing around there too.. As well in fuse box where relay would go, there are no copper connections. Ive attached the instructions

barcapopo 04-07-2013 03:30 PM

Any other photos help?

Pugga 04-07-2013 04:33 PM

You aren't factory wired, the kit you bought is a complete kit, you don't need the factory wiring. Do as I posted above, the red wire goes to the low beam power light, the other is your ground. You can connect the red wire to the battery as the instructions state but that will mean they will be live full time and you could leave them on with the truck off. Attaching the red wire to the low beam power wire will give you stock function meaning they will shut off with the high beams and also when the engine is off.

barcapopo 04-07-2013 05:07 PM

Ok Pugga will follow your instructions.

So I'll cut the plug connectors.. where do I connect to low beam? Where do I find that? Im assuming in fuse box?

Connecting to the switch, I would just run my switch connection that came with my kit? Just leave existing switch pushed inside?

Pugga 04-07-2013 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barcapopo (Post 6709415)
Ok Pugga will follow your instructions.

So I'll cut the plug connectors.. where do I connect to low beam? Where do I find that? Im assuming in fuse box?

Connecting to the switch, I would just run my switch connection that came with my kit? Just leave existing switch pushed inside?

Using this graphic (the one you posted above, sorry my earlier post I had my colors incorrect), the positive wire at the top of the page (A) is the one you want to tap into the low beam power wire. The easiest way is to tap the wire near the headlight itself. There are 3 wires that go to the headlight, a high beam power, low beam power and a ground. A test light will help you differentiate which is which (I don't remember which color is which, someone might be able to chime in and tell you).

The positive wire (D) toward the middle is the one that needs to be tapped to battery power. Personally, I hate wires hanging off the battery so, for a cleaner install, you can get battery power from the under hood fuse panel. There is a bolt at the front, passenger side of the fuse box that is the power supply from the battery to the fuse panel. Tap into that bolt for battery power and run the wires out through the bottom of the fuse box. Very clean looking, wires are hidden.

B is your ground wire.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...ructions-2.jpg

barcapopo 04-07-2013 05:48 PM

Connecting to the switch, I would just run my switch connection that came with my kit? Just leave existing switch pushed inside?

Pugga 04-07-2013 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barcapopo (Post 6709646)
Connecting to the switch, I would just run my switch connection that came with my kit? Just leave existing switch pushed inside?

Yes, ignore the factory wiring, it won't do you any good. Just push the factory plug aside and use the wiring that came with the kit.

barcapopo 04-07-2013 06:03 PM

Ok I will give all that a try. If I have any more questions ill post. Thanks a ton for your help!!

Pugga 04-07-2013 06:11 PM

If you have questions, feel free to ask. I just installed that same kit for a local member 2 weeks ago. His wasn't smoked though, but it had the same wiring diagram and his wiring diagram looked identical to yours. Also purchased off Ebay I believe. So far, he seems to be happy with it.

ABA180 04-07-2013 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pugga (Post 6709793)
If you have questions, feel free to ask. I just installed that same kit for a local member 2 weeks ago. His wasn't smoked though, but it had the same wiring diagram and his wiring diagram looked identical to yours. Also purchased off Ebay I believe. So far, he seems to be happy with it.

That's me..and yep mine was an Ebay jobber. Works great and really clean and professional install job by Pugga :cheers:

barcapopo 04-07-2013 07:14 PM

Just so I can have this clarified as well. If I wanted to have power always to fog lights instead of connecting to low beams, would I connect A and D in instruction diagram to postive battery?

barcapopo 04-07-2013 07:44 PM

it also looks like to get power to battery i will need longer wires, I have maybe a foot from relay and fuse. What do I get from the store? Thanks

barcapopo 04-07-2013 07:55 PM

Did the switch that came with your kit fit in fog light space?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ABA180 (Post 6710146)
That's me..and yep mine was an Ebay jobber. Works great and really clean and professional install job by Pugga :cheers:


ABA180 04-07-2013 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barcapopo (Post 6710447)
Did the switch that came with your kit fit in fog light space?

Yes sir.

Pugga ran mine to the parking lights (forget which wire, I'll let him answer that one). Best of both worlds, won't forget to shut them off and don't need the headlights to run em.

barcapopo 04-07-2013 08:29 PM

Hmm that seems like a good idea. By connecting to parking light they will still be on all the time, but when in park they shut off? I think i need to know how to do that

Quote:

Originally Posted by ABA180 (Post 6710453)
Yes sir.

Pugga ran mine to the parking lights (forget which wire, I'll let him answer that one). Best of both worlds, won't forget to shut them off and don't need the headlights to run em.


Rich91710 04-07-2013 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barcapopo (Post 6708902)
Ive looked everywhere, there are no wires anywhere behind bumper etc I took dummy fog lights out - nothing around there too.. As well in fuse box where relay would go, there are no copper connections. Ive attached the instructions

The positive connected to the 15a fuse (single connector) goes to the battery.
The other "positive" is the "arming" and goes to a switched hot, taillight, or your low beam hot.

But if you have an AC or DC SR5, you probably are prewired. Look in the fuse box where the relay should be plugged in. If there are contacts down in the slots, you ARE prewired and all you need is a fuse, relay, and an OEM switch (about $45 from Camelback).

The switch that came with that kit will not fit properly in the openings to the left of the wheel. They will fit the center console openings between or next to the power outlets... not sure if your '11 has those or if they were added for '12.

Also, that harness isn't going to be long enough.

barcapopo 04-07-2013 09:46 PM

I checked the relay in fuse. There are no contacts. Yah the harness isnt long enough, what do I need to extend it?


Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich91710 (Post 6710865)
The positive connected to the 15a fuse (single connector) goes to the battery.
The other "positive" is the "arming" and goes to a switched hot, taillight, or your low beam hot.

But if you have an AC or DC SR5, you probably are prewired. Look in the fuse box where the relay should be plugged in. If there are contacts down in the slots, you ARE prewired and all you need is a fuse, relay, and an OEM switch (about $45 from Camelback).

The switch that came with that kit will not fit properly in the openings to the left of the wheel. They will fit the center console openings between or next to the power outlets... not sure if your '11 has those or if they were added for '12.

Also, that harness isn't going to be long enough.



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