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Long Travel BS Thread

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by amaes, Aug 20, 2010.

  1. Jun 6, 2014 at 12:54 PM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    It swings 14.2* through 24" of travel

    2.2* Forward at bump
    6* back at ride
    12* back at droop

    with 1 1/8" of plunge
     
  2. Jun 6, 2014 at 1:06 PM
    Supermoto

    Supermoto Well-Known Member

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    That's a lot of pinion change and a ton of plunge
     
  3. Jun 6, 2014 at 1:10 PM
    RJALLDAY702

    RJALLDAY702 U MAD? OH U MAD

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    So how can he fix it?
     
  4. Jun 6, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    02,03 some 04, it's complicated
    #junkyardparts
    :popcorn: a lot to try and learn. Well I'm Ray. I'm new to LT but really looking forward in getting mine done next year. I just thought I introduce myself since I'm always stocking this thread.
     
  5. Jun 6, 2014 at 2:08 PM
    username

    username Fluffer

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    Pendleton, Or
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    Parallelogram. Look at a monster truck sometime. Stoopid travel but the pinion stays flat through the whole cycle due to the equal length links. It is my understanding the pinion flange should be perfectly vertical at ride height, or parallel with the trans output flange so to speak. Looks like his rear diff is pointed directly at the output of the T-case and needs to be rolled forward some (i.e. pinion flange closer to the floor).
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Jun 6, 2014 at 2:11 PM
    Supermoto

    Supermoto Well-Known Member

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    The pinion angle depends on if you have a u-joint or a double cardan joint
     
  7. Jun 6, 2014 at 2:28 PM
    DMCtacoma

    DMCtacoma Well-Known Member

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    To help get rid of the plunge you will need to move the lower links up or down. You can get it a lot closer by making them parallel with the driveshaft. Note when doing that you need to have the pinion angle set right to begin with too. Now off road is kind of a pain in the ass. When you read a lot of chassis books they tell you one thing but off road you need something different like the ic. When you start getting the ic where the books tell you, it makes your anti squat higher which is a whole nother can of worms.
     
  8. Jun 7, 2014 at 1:38 AM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    I can make an adjustment to reduce it. I was under the impression you should keep the pinion pointed at the trans. Makes more sense this way to cut "anti-squat"


    Gotcha I wanted to try and get away with a one piece drive shaft but I'm probably going to need a 2 piece
     
  9. Jun 7, 2014 at 12:32 PM
    snowgod06

    snowgod06 UG legend wannabe

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    crap bolted and welded together....
    Hey guys got a question. Trying to remove my brake assembley and spindle leaving my CV attached to the truck. I've got everything off I need to but cent seem to get thr end shaft that goes thru the rotor to come free. Any ideas would be appreciated.
     
  10. Jun 7, 2014 at 12:45 PM
    snowgod06

    snowgod06 UG legend wannabe

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    crap bolted and welded together....
    Yea I got it. Been a long morning already lol
     
  11. Jun 7, 2014 at 5:21 PM
    biggie

    biggie Well-Known Member

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    any of you guys know someone to make some 4.5" tie rod extensions?? im sick of trying to work with these heims on a stock spindle
     
  12. Jun 7, 2014 at 6:49 PM
    DTFtacoma

    DTFtacoma Dezert Toy Fabrication Vendor

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    PM'd
     
  13. Jun 8, 2014 at 8:22 AM
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have a set of 1st gen cam bolts?
     
  14. Jun 8, 2014 at 10:47 AM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    Quick question for you LT gurus. My cam bolt tabs are already welded on. Would I still have to grind them off and weld on thicker ones on or just add some steel and run a few more beads? If you want pics I can take some and show what they look like now. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2014
  15. Jun 8, 2014 at 1:30 PM
    rcfreak201

    rcfreak201 Well-Known Member

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  16. Jun 8, 2014 at 2:00 PM
    Hiatt1991

    Hiatt1991 Well-Known Member

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  17. Jun 8, 2014 at 2:57 PM
    snowgod06

    snowgod06 UG legend wannabe

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    crap bolted and welded together....
    any of you guys can explain to me how the birf goes back together? I had to take it apart to put longer axles in for my LT. Now im staring at the birf and everything and kinda lost.

    I know how the star sits, but the cage has me lost. :(

    each end of the cage has different size openings. Which side is the "top" when looking at it for assembly. Thanks.
     
  18. Jun 8, 2014 at 4:52 PM
    SanClemTaco

    SanClemTaco Well-Known Member

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    that looks stock to me, or am i missing a tack holding the eccentric in place?
     
  19. Jun 8, 2014 at 5:01 PM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    Yeah it's stock.... But I didn't know they weld along the tabs. I thought they were only three spot/plug welds that held it on. I'm unsure if I should just remove the factory ones and make beefed up one to replace or just add to the factory ones. That's my question.
     
  20. Jun 8, 2014 at 11:57 PM
    troyboy162

    troyboy162 Well-Known Member

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    I did some crappy boogers to help mine out. I dont expect to be as hard on the cams as most in this forum though
    IMG_20131221_124732938_zpshkamp1ij_3d86d8507e993a3ce55bb83cb20fa7f8b1e642ff.jpg
     

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