Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah I know I just meant that I thought all of the width was from the wheels and was using mid travel for flex. I figured you had 15x8 or 10's with something like 2" BS, I actually checked out your build thread (skimmed it obviously) and saw that you are running something like 2.25" of bs with the spacers factored in. I dont do any high speed jumps or anything just trail running basically and I have looked into both LT and MT setups to see if they would be worth the money or if they wouldnt give much improvement. I'm also not looking to do another sas anytime soon and like the idea of keeping the truck to where I can find replacement parts easily without having to order aftermarket parts everytime.

Basically I'm trying to build a frankenstein of sorts also,I want to keep a full bed floor(so obviously no cages with super long travel shocks) I would like a bit more flex than stock, a nice ride on road since I will be driving the truck a good bit, and I want the truck to be repairable with off the shelf parts as much as possible. I need to keep the truck street legal in a state where lifts are pretty much out of the question given the height law, tires have to be completely covered. I haven't had a sway bar on this truck in over 10 years so that helps with the flex a bit.

The build I have running in my head right now is-

Aftermarket UCA's (not like they go bad often enough to worry about replacements)
OME springs (thinking 881's but that will depend on weight)
Probably keep my stock replacement struts since they have less than 500mi on them.
63" chevy rear leaf setup with custom long shackles from above frame
plate front/rear bumpers (probably fabbed pieces by a local welder I know)
Full skid plates, I had bud built ones on one tacoma and wish I kept them.
35x12.50-36x14.50,maybe 38x15.5 tires on 15x10-14 wheel 2.5-3.5" BS
6.5" fenders front and 6.5" bedsides rear
4.56-4.88 gears, locker rear, open front until I can afford a select-able locker front
treadstone turbo manifold, t3/t4 hybrid set to a low boost level (5-7psi)
and I might look into a bed rack for a RTT setup for camping since I sold the trailer.

For those that need a image in their head picture the body of this first truck with the tires and height of the 2nd one.(a very famous toy)

 

You want mid travel if you want the best all around suspension with no width gains and no major mods.

Good luck fitting 35s with 881s and screw stock stocks they suck. Get something nicer.

63s are fine for trail. Check out IDTrucks build

No way can you fit 14.5" wide tires even with 2" bs that are 36" tall so might as well scrap that.

I'd also go for 5.29s over 4.88s. Especially cause your a 4banger. Turbo or not And I wouldn't do 6" flares or bed sides. Way to big. Zam15 has 6" flares up front but has long travel up front. It's pretty wide. Would be way too wide without LT IMO.

But it's your rig. Get to building

 

I have 35s and it doesn't run the fenders at all....after some slight cutting haha

 

haha no kidding. no way would 14'' wide ones fit without LT or SAC. I cut a shit load out as it is to fit mine haha

 

Just did it yesterday. Installing my LT in december. This is 4.5 Glassworks with icon coilover lift. 315/75/16 Goodyear mtrs. 4.5bs with 1.5 spacer

Still have some sanding to do to make them fit better and also need to paint them.

 

blackdawg- yeah I have no problems with cutting as I know its going to happen, how much just depends on tires. I have had 4.56 and 4.88 gears before in 3rz manual trucks with 35's and the 4.88's were about as low as I would go for a street truck but again that depends on tires that I end up with also. As for never fitting 14" wide tires have you looked into the icelandic trucks? I have talked with couple toyota wheelers from over there and most run a 38x15.50 on stock height trucks and 44x18.50 on truck with 4-5" lift, the rest is all cutting and those monster flares (which gave me the glass fneders idea instead of 1 off flares that would need rebuilt from scratch if something bad happened) I dont want to sound like a snob but money isnt the issue with running stock parts vs aftermarket,I am no where near wealthy or anything like that but I just sold my paid for 06 tundra few weeks ago and kept a good chunk to go towards this. I just dont like the idea of being away from home sitting along a trail needing a custom part instead of one I can get a ride to local parts store and replace, yes I know that aftermarket parts are built better usually and they dont go wrong at the drop of a hat but its something I have dealt with before 8 hrs from home.

Anthony250f- Your truck has long travel done though correct? so what hits for you might not be a problem on a stock width truck if it was running same glass setup you have.

Thanks for the pics ponethousand, for some reason the 4.5's just dont look that big on these trucks like they do on a 2nd gen. I like they way they look but dont seem to provide much extra coverage vs a set of bushwackers, it looks like your stock rear flares almost cover your tires in those pics.

I think I will probably just have to go ahead and spend the $$ on fenders then just build truck to suit them, I wouldnt mind 4.5: setup with a 35x12.50 tire on 8" rim under truck but I have had that before with simple lift and warn flares so it wouldnt be something all that new or radical looking. I was just hoping I could find more guys running the 6.5 fenders to get better idea of what they would look like.

Which brings me back to the question of who to buy the glass from, Mcneil is a bit cheaper on price and I kinda like their front fenders looks a bit more than the glassworks but the whole 2 weeks with no reply bugs me from a customer service outlook. Is there any place else that does a 6.5 set without the whole 05 tacoma conversion or 1st gen tundra conversion clip.

 

4.5" glassworks. mid travel. 285-70-17. 1" wheel in front.


if youre installing a lift kit on your rig, you need at least longer shocks in the rear or you wont have full flex on down travel. 6" fenders IMO look horrible on most trucks. a lot of long travel trucks cant even pull it off.

 

i would do it the other way. build your truck how you want then get glass or flares to fit the build.
also heads up 35x12.5 rub the frame on first gens (at least mine did even with 1.25" spacers) any larger and you may not be able to turn much

 

i gotta ask how many of the iceland trucks you see with 15-18'' wide tires are 1st gens though? 2nd gens are different and from what i have seen that is what most of the iceland style trucks are. 2nd gens can fit 35s like 1st gens fit 33s. Just a bit of hammer work and fender cutting. Not rebuilding the whole fire wall. Im telling you, you won't be able to fit a 15'' wide tire on a 1st gen without pushing the tires super far out. I cut part of my door hinges just fitting 12.5s on an 8'' rim. And i still rub on the frame with 2.25'' BS at full steering lock.

If they do fit, you won't be able to turn very tight at all..

But for the Glass question, lots of people here are very happy with thier Mcneil glass. Glassworks is still the undisputed best looking glass, but they have a horrible rep for shipping. Some people never even get their fenders after waiting up to a year. And others get it the next week no problem. So kinda a gamble with glassworks. Mcneil is pretty solid all around though.

Fiberwerx is another company to check out although honestly no idea if they make 6'' glass. But thats what i have up front.

 

2 more days and he'll be sitting by his own

 

PRETTY!

 

Not yet. I found out that I need a new cylinder head. Cylinder #1 has low compression. First new head then I will address the intake.

Thanks

Cant wait to put those on the truck. Thanks for giving me such a good deal.

Thanks Brian. Maybe one day it will keep up with your race truck if you take it easy. Well maybe if I can learn to drive my little reg cab as well

Thanks Micah!

Haha. I wish but until this rear-end breaks my mod money is needed elsewhere on the truck.

 

magikbean- TY for pics it helps to just see different combo's and your truck looks good for the height an tires. I also get the same feeling as before about the 4.5's not being big enough since a 285 is what I ran on this truck with 0 lift 0 spacers and just the stock honda wheels and they just barely poked out, your running stock FJ wheels with 4.75 back spacing and 1" spacers up front right? It looks like your tires are completely covered but thats not a very wide tire or a wide wheel with low back spacing so I dont think you could go to a much wider wheel/tire and still be covered by the 4.5's.

sanclemtaco- I ran 35x1250x15's for years on my taco's (including this one in a previous build mode) on a old school set of Ar-23 15x8's with 3.75 BS with no frame or body rub after doing the normal pinch weld cut and fold, I know you said about spacers but not sure what your wheels BS is to start to get idea what you overall BS ends up at.

Blackdawg-Fiberwerxonly has 4.5 for 1st gen and glassworks says their fenders are radius'd for a 37" tire, where Mcneil doesnt say and hasn't responded but I'll try calling again.On the iceland thing I dont think they got the first gen taco in iceland only hilux-4runner then started getting 2nd gens imported with hilux-4runners being available at dealers still.

I'm not saying that with the glass I can bolt 38x15.50 on 15x14 bart super truckers and have no rub on a stock truck, I'm just trying to see what coverage they really provide and how the fenders look on a few different trucks instead of the stock photo's being the only ones I find. I am prepared to do any mods required to get tires to fit but I'm trying to stay within the law on some things (height goes by frame, tires must be covered etc) I know that many people run 33-37 tires on a LT truck and usually stick to the 12.5 width but that doesnt help get a visual of what a stock track width truck could cover with those same fenders. I would be perfectly happy with a 35x12.50 of 315/75 if they fill the 6.5 fenders but I didnt want to go getting the 4.5's only to find I have to run the cheapie pacer flares on them to remain legal.

On the 1st gen vs 2nd gen my moms 06 trd 4x4 barely clears 265/75/16 tires on the stock rims... so if they can make room for monster tires I dont see why I can't.

I hope this can give a bit more insight into the look I'm after and how it isnt completely insane to think I can clear a 35-38 with my current 3" lift and the glass. This is a 1990 4 runner (which have smaller fender openings than a 1st gen taco. He says he has 4" body lift only, 38" dick cepeks on 15x14 wheels.I'm not sure on back spacing though.



this is same truck with lift and fenders but only 31's on 15x8's to give idea of height truck sits without the tires.

 

enigmadsm- I will do firewall mods, move mounts (both body and spring since 63" chevy swap requires it), notch frame, mod the new fenders etc pretty much anything I need to but I can't change how wide the fenders are and how much coverage they actually provide. But I dont think you are getting my thought process and maybe its me that off but... If someone is running a 5" over Lt with 8" wide tires and they are covered perfectly and dont look goofy under 6" glass than why couldnt I run 0 extra arm length and put that 12" total width all into the tires (which a 14.50 tire is usually only a true 12-13 wide) and still not look goofy

do you have a link to juan's build? maybe he has a pic with just fenders before LT was done?

 

Eh, I could fit 38's on a stock 5 lug with enough sawzall blades. Everyone told me there was no way to fit 37's at full stuff on my truck, but I can. I think I could stuff 40's lock to lock if I redid the firewall or stretched the frame a little. Btw, my 2nd gen is 91" wide in the front. Stupid 3" backspacing.

 

Got pick of tires at full lock?

 

They completely clear while the truck is static. On hard hits at full stuff when turned it gnarfes the firewall in one spot, but I have to do something pretty stupid to make that happen. I think these frames flex a lot more than we think, even when caged.

 

Did you had to cut off the top part pf the firewall? And do you rub on top of the cab mount at full lock stuffed?

 

Yeah, the entire wheel well is gone, the cab mount chopped, and also moved the fuse box. It's just air between the tire and the hood, so I think I could fit 40's pretty easy. That's only 1.5" more clearance than I have. It could be done, even on an X-runner.

 

username-gotta love the military goodyears, not the best tire out there but they last and you cant beat the price they can usually be picked up for.


enigmadsm- That red double cab has me thinking, if those are 38x15.50 then those wheels have to be 15x14 weld typhoons or a custom widening job on some. The fender openings do not appear to be as high as aftermarket glass ones and they dont look like they would be wider than 6.5" from the body. I am sure there is a lot of cutting going on under that truck to get them to fit and thats fine with me but thats a really good pic to get reference for sizing off of.

actually I found its build gallery thanks to the sticker on the door and finding tommigumm's gallery lol http://www.f4x4.is/myndasvaedi/tacoma-breyting/

it appears to be a stock suspension completely (he later redid rear with coils apparently) and is only running a 4" body lift in which they cut the mounts off the frame and raised them using some box tubing instead of a conventional body lift. I even found one pic tommi had posted where you can see the stock springs still in the back in use, but again the build page shows the coils.

TY guys for the help and pics I think I have an idea of what I want to go with, I might try to find someone in my area (or within a few hours driving distance) with 4.5's and look at them in person, maybe even see if I can test fit a tire/wheel combo once I get close to ordering my glass and go from there. I'll stop cluttering the LT thread now lol