1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

General Fabrication

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by linked2002, Aug 19, 2011.

  1. Oct 30, 2013 at 7:12 PM
    #1321
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2012
    Member:
    #80249
    Messages:
    690
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma prerunner
    Icon Shocks, BTF front, Deaver f67, 33's on stocks, Fiberwerxs 1pc, TDR S/C, Bed & Eng Caged
    The few vehicles i have had roof racks on (IE thule, yakima) i have never had a noise issue i say this because i feel that is your best option, then mount your light between the racks. it is the best way to attach something on a vehicle without a gutter or track on the roof line edge. and specially not drilling into the roof. does it have a track?
     
  2. Oct 30, 2013 at 7:19 PM
    #1322
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20861
    Messages:
    6,704
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Boring, Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    1981 Long bed 4x4
    DSCN0276_zps15ab600a_f637fafb0129a021504799bbe98cb156edeb9ce0.jpg

    DSCN0268_zps87247871_18d4c39bdac8ae0dddf89cb32e0c0ae912667bbd.jpg

    VVV The rest of it is somewhere among the BS. :eek:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-builds/159436-frankenstein-build-lt-expo-trail-rig-bs-135.html#post6225158
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2013
  3. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:16 PM
    #1323
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    nothing wrong with a roof rack though..i mean..i didn't notice any of the "wind noise" you speak of..i did notice power loss and mpg loss haha

    Not sure how your gonna make a mount like that without drilling on a reg cab..Dbl cab would be easy..
     
  4. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:23 PM
    #1324
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    Only way i can think of doing this without drilling and using some sort of clamp..is mounting it on the doors..otherwise you have no really way to clamp it..

    OR

    magnets..but..idk about that..
     
  5. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:31 PM
    #1325
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
  6. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:38 PM
    #1326
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    what if you had two bars..that went across the roof..using clamp force to hold in place in the doors..but where super low to the roof..then just had mounts sticking up where you wanted the LED bars..make sense?
     
  7. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:43 PM
    #1327
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    i think if you just used some like..1-1.5'' strap that .125'' think or maybe a bit more..did some super fancey bending so it fit good in the door jams and had a clamping mechanism..then more fancy bending..i bet you could get it pretty damn close to the roof..

    That would also leave you the option for mount a LED facing forwards and backwards if you wanted..
     
  8. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:49 PM
    #1328
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    yea..same idea..but not NEAR that high.

    If you get creative..you could make it like super close to the roof..many a rubber pad about 1/8'' thick under contacting the roof..so it would be maybe 1/2'' tall or 9/16''..if you can get it shaped right..the clamp part will work itself out.

    But really..not other way to clamp..thats the only place you have to clamp..
     
  9. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:52 PM
    #1329
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20861
    Messages:
    6,704
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Boring, Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    1981 Long bed 4x4
    What about an adhesive mount?:confused:
     
  10. Oct 30, 2013 at 8:54 PM
    #1330
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    well those mounts won't work just by themselves..they need the one on the other side to have something to pull against..

    You can't just use two of those on a door with an LED bar in betwen it..thats where my idea for the slim metal straps across comes in..wouldn't need side mounds.
     
  11. Oct 30, 2013 at 9:04 PM
    #1331
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20861
    Messages:
    6,704
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Boring, Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    1981 Long bed 4x4
    I don't know how different 2nd gens are, but there's a lip/gutter for the door seal on mine. Screw it to that, put the door seal over it and you're gtg. Don't have to worry about holes directly into the cab
     
  12. Oct 30, 2013 at 9:13 PM
    #1332
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Member:
    #71846
    Messages:
    10,792
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bill
    Navarre, FL
    Vehicle:
    1997 Tacoma 4X4 AKA "Blue Beast"
    best wheel bearings around! www.marionbumper2bumper.com
    Well, after some debate and thinking, and some pressure from a TW member....COUGH...blackdawg....COUGH, I have decided to do some serious research on building custom stuff for my truck, and depending on how they come out, for others as my time permits. So first step is learning how to do it all, and the correct tools for the job.

    I know how tube bending works, and the purposes of things such as the die, and locks. I know the principals of springback and all, but I still have to learn how to calculate out this stuff depending on material type, wall thickness, etc. (I am sure I have left stuff out as well) So the first question I have is this: Considering this will be a HOBBY, and not a full-time job, what are everyone's recommendations on benders? I am thinking right now I will have a max budget of $350 to $400, but if enough people know of some decent benders for less, I am more than willing to hear your input. I will also later be looking into, and asking about notchers, but lets take one step at a time. I will check back tomorrow. I need to get some sleep.




    Damn you Blackdawg.....lmao
     
  13. Oct 30, 2013 at 9:15 PM
    #1333
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2010
    Member:
    #48500
    Messages:
    80,741
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Monte
    Wyoming/St. Louis
    Vehicle:
    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.
    :D haha!!

    Hey..you will LOVE it. And thank me later :D haha you'll have a blast.
     
  14. Oct 30, 2013 at 11:40 PM
    #1334
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Member:
    #25619
    Messages:
    19,092
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ian
    Santa Clara, CA
    Vehicle:
    09 Tacoma
    Anything on the roof will create noise. Especially a light bar.

    But what if you used a 3x2 or 2x2 or a small single row light and built a bracket for the factory roof rack to mount it to? There should be a small threaded hole about midway along the ditch molding that would work.
     
  15. Oct 31, 2013 at 5:11 AM
    #1335
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Member:
    #25619
    Messages:
    19,092
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ian
    Santa Clara, CA
    Vehicle:
    09 Tacoma
    My bad. I thought you had rack.
     
  16. Oct 31, 2013 at 6:05 AM
    #1336
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Member:
    #71846
    Messages:
    10,792
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bill
    Navarre, FL
    Vehicle:
    1997 Tacoma 4X4 AKA "Blue Beast"
    best wheel bearings around! www.marionbumper2bumper.com
    Yeah? I have actually been looking at the JD2 Model 32 for $395 direct from JD Squared. I bet I could find it for less if I shopped around. I gotta smit, I would like more than just a product name. Can you two tell me WHY you are recommending the Model 3? Who here uses it?
     
  17. Oct 31, 2013 at 6:18 AM
    #1337
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Member:
    #40461
    Messages:
    19,561
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Benicia, CA
    Vehicle:
    02 Extra cab SAS Linked front and rear
    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    The JD2 model 32 is probably the most used hobby manual tube bender on the market. It gets the job done for the money. There is really not much to say about it its a manual bender they are all pretty similar. The first thing I would do is ass the swagoffroad air over hydro kit to it and make your life easier. You can find a used one for pety cheap if you look around.
     
  18. Oct 31, 2013 at 6:20 AM
    #1338
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2009
    Member:
    #20861
    Messages:
    6,704
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jonathan
    Boring, Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    1981 Long bed 4x4
    I have the JD2 M32. It's easy to set up and use, has quality parts and machining, easily upgradable, and beefy as F@^K!

    P1280804_zps18951147_caa89ea1ce662914c9b767b7e0412fb64a31a0f8.jpg

    My bumper was my first project with it

    [​IMG]

    Only thing that sucks is the price of the bender sounds great but then you pay through the nose for the die sets.
     
  19. Oct 31, 2013 at 7:20 AM
    #1339
    linked2002

    linked2002 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2011
    Member:
    #61872
    Messages:
    812
    Gender:
    Male
    san diego
    Vehicle:
    02 tacoma, 3 linked, 6 over custom arms, cage
    links, custom 6 over arms, full 1.75 d.o.m. cage, 35 gallon cell, etc
    ^^^ so darn true!! Speaking of dies, anyone have a 1.25" die I can toss 2 bends through? I'm needing to throw a bend in my tie rods and can't afford a new die just for that.
     
  20. Oct 31, 2013 at 7:31 AM
    #1340
    SDSam

    SDSam from Dirt bike to Dezert Couch

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2012
    Member:
    #80249
    Messages:
    690
    Gender:
    Male
    San Diego
    Vehicle:
    00 Tacoma prerunner
    Icon Shocks, BTF front, Deaver f67, 33's on stocks, Fiberwerxs 1pc, TDR S/C, Bed & Eng Caged
    Im about 800+ hundred into the JD2-M3 three dies. still very worth it and it holds it resale if well kept. cheaper brands are junk
     

Products Discussed in

To Top