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Old 11-22-2011, 07:22 AM   #1
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Painting shocks?

Living in the salt belt blows.

My junk once looked like this:


After 6 days commuting in the snow it looked like this:


I'll get the aluminum cleaned up with some polish, air tools, and plenty of roloc discs but I know it'll just get nasty again once the salt sprayers come back out. Waxing helps but doesn't fix the issue completely.

Has anyone tried painting their shocks? I know it'll have a negative effect on heat dissipation but I'm hoping it's slight. Also, the same salt that corrodes the metal will chip away at the painted finish, so that's also a concern.

Anybody have some ideas of what's possible to keep these things looking like anything other than scrap metal?

(Posted in LT due to the shock temperature concerns. That doesn't come up much in other types of wheeling.)
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:25 AM   #2
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Not LT but high temp paint you'd use on an exhaust or a powder coat application maybe? I'm not sure about powder coat with the temps though, how hot do they get?
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:26 AM   #3
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mike painted his shocks. IDK what paint he used, but i do know his truck still performs just fine with the painted shock bodeis... but his truck doesn't see race conditions like yours...

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Old 11-22-2011, 07:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Not LT but high temp paint you'd use on an exhaust or a powder coat application maybe? I'm not sure about powder coat with the temps though, how hot do they get?
Fox shock oil is good up to 450 degrees. Shock temps up to 500 degrees have been seen on really rough courses like San Felipe. Definitely need high temp paint for that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nelson18matt View Post
mike painted his shocks. IDK what paint he used, but i do know his truck still performs just fine with the painted shock bodeis... but his truck doesn't see race conditions like yours...
Those look damn good! Nice that they're up and away from flying debris kicked up by the wheels.

At least there might be hope to restore some of the "show" to match the "go"
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:38 AM   #5
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No was is that only 6 days. You also have diff ucas in the pics
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pudge151 View Post
No was is that only 6 days. You also have diff ucas in the pics
6 days of commuting. Then it was laid up while I chopped the UCAs and installed heims.

I can guarantee it was only 6 days of use in the snow.
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Old 11-22-2011, 07:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
6 days of commuting. Then it was laid up while I chopped the UCAs and installed heims.

I can guarantee it was only 6 days of use in the snow.
for once i'm glad i live in southern CA
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:07 AM   #8
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painting shocks

I bought some epoxy paint @ autozone made by VHT havent tried it yet but it has a picture of a strut coil assembly on the can so I would assume that's what it's intended for
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:11 AM   #9
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The part I'm concerned about on mine is the threads on the adjustable spring seat, I'm not longtravel, so I'll just paint whatever on the shock body... but I don't want my threads getting rusted all to phuck...
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadderkdawg View Post
The part I'm concerned about on mine is the threads on the adjustable spring seat, I'm not longtravel, so I'll just paint whatever on the shock body... but I don't want my threads getting rusted all to phuck...
Try ski wax, it'll be much more built up vs. regular wax and will not bugger up the threads. Never seize or one of those teflon spray lubricants might be good for the threads but I'm not sure if it'll affect how the threads lock in to keep the coil where it should be. Have you thought about wrapping the threads in electrical tape for the winter? Might be a little tacky but it'll work.

Do any of the manufacturers make the adjustable collar out of stainless?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:32 AM   #11
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clearcoat maybe? or caliper paint?
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:39 AM   #12
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Since that pic was taken I started coating the threads with anti-seize. The collars still spin so that's one thing I have going for me.

Clearcoat is porous, unfortunately. I learned that when I painted my custom grill emblem and it rusted a day later.

Caliper paint will probably be the direction I take but I'll keep looking around a bit more before making a purchase. It'd be nice to only have to do this once.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffroadToy View Post
Fluid Film might be worth a try to keep things from rusting up again.
Hadn't heard of that product before. Looks like it could be the right option based on their website. Will definitely do more reading on that stuff! Thanks!
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:12 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mjp2 View Post
Hadn't heard of that product before. Looks like it could be the right option based on their website. Will definitely do more reading on that stuff! Thanks!
Check your local John Deere dealership.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:23 AM   #16
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Sweet. There's one not far from my place.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:24 AM   #17
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Definitely gonna give this stuff a shot
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:03 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffroadToy View Post
Fluid Film might be worth a try to keep things from rusting up again.
Ima try this stuff my chocks look like chit lol
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:10 AM   #19
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im just gonna leave this here.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:16 AM   #20
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im just gonna leave this here.

i used to work in a lawnmower shop, we used PAM on the underside of mowers, in slow blowers... to prevent rust and lube up the chutes
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