ENGAGE offroad lower arm broke i need your guys opinion on this

if you use uniballs for lowers, then you use bushings for the uppers, or other way around, IIRC, or theres too much play in the whole system

 

If it's over torqued down, never saw a drop of grease, and utilizing crap material for the bushings anything is possible. Those bolts shouldn't be over 100#.

I would be very hesitant to buy any aftermarket kit that didn't have zerks on moving parts. I would also wonder why no grease is shown in the pics of the bushings. If the kits don't have zerks they most certainly should of been greased during installation IMHO.


Shit I mall crawl and greased the piss out of my OE bushings when I installed them, but I'm no mechanic or fabricator.







Common sense says moving parts need lube.

 

I grease mine too, all the time, i was just wondering

 

I would think it contributed to the problem but is not the main factor for failure.

I have a feeling many circumstances are to blame for OP's issue's.

 

Such as?

 

I believe you can get poly urethane bushings or Delrin like I run on my kit

 

When moving parts like that aren't lubed properly, they will chafe and bind. Especially under really dusty conditions like desert driving. Excess friction, blah blah. I'd say that could well be a contributing factor.

When bushings wear they cause excess movement/play. Super high performance and race car suspensions do without bushings, favoring tie rods and uni-balls. Bushings are used for comfort and vibration isolation in certain cases

 

True, I think the biggest take away is for current Engage customers to reinforce that portion of their control arms. It's fortunate that in the past four years Engage has been distributing these 2nd Gen kits, this is the first failure of that part.

 

And watch for cracks on a regular basis. A small nick can lead to a large crack. I am convinced that mine started as scrapes over rocks. ...and lube is always good. TC recommends a graphite synth grease. I make home brew with Mobil One and dry graphite.

 

Good thing they used the same bushing kits you can buy at Kartek.

Or was it just ironic?

 

dude , i hope you realize that what you greased dosent pivot in the arm . your grease didnt do anything except to help press in the new bushings. oem bushings dont really pivot , they act more like a torsion bar than anything else

no lube on the bushings wont create what happened to the OP. its very apparent seamed tubing was used and wasent assembled correctly before welding.

also, dom and chromoly tube starts life as welded tube but is twisted while put through the mandrel so what happened to the OP wouldent have happened if dom or chromoly was used.

lastly , superlube is hands down the best lubricant for bushings, i wouldent use anything else , especially for acetal bushings

 

^ +1

 

It looks like the lower sheared on the seam. 1/8 Mild or cold rolled isn't enough for the amount of force it would endure.

 

And all that grease on the cams will only allow it to bump out of alignment quicker - those parts IMO should be clean and dry!

 

All that excess grease enables ATRAC allowing it to perform better

 

Only if it is BACON grease.

 

This truck doesn't have atrac

 

Lol ^

 

That explains the failure