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Installing AP LT this weekend...have a question

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:55 AM   #1
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Installing All Pro Long Travel this weekend...have a question

All finished up guys! Thanks for everyone's help!







As the title says, installing All Pro Long Travel this weekend and I have a question or two.

I actually went to one of the Toyota Dealerships around here and asked their master mechanic what type of grease they pack the half shafts/CV's with and he had no idea. Apparently Toyota doesn't ever replace just an axle or a single CV component, they just replace the whole half shaft.

What kinda of grease are you guys using to repack the half shafts?

I got this, but im not sure if it will work:
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:03 AM   #2
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Any synthetic, extreme pressure, moly grease will do. Most of these greases are black.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:04 AM   #3
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The dealership ship is wrong, Toyota has a CV boot rebuild kit that comes with an inner and outer boot, four clamps and two types of grease. The Lucas grease that you have will work just fine.

I have had my Allpro LT for a couple of years now and still working great. The hardest part of the install maybe seperating the CV joints from the halfshafts..if you have any issues with that then I would highly recommend you taking the halfshafts to a driveline shop and let them deal with it. Good luck with the install, overall its not too hard to do.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:11 AM   #4
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Yep like monkeyproof said removing the axle from the outer cv is a royal pain in the ASS!
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
The dealership ship is wrong, Toyota has a CV boot rebuild kit that comes with an inner and outer boot, four clamps and two types of grease. The Lucas grease that you have will work just fine.

I have had my Allpro LT for a couple of years now and still working great. The hardest part of the install maybe seperating the CV joints from the halfshafts..if you have any issues with that then I would highly recommend you taking the halfshafts to a driveline shop and let them deal with it. Good luck with the install, overall its not too hard to do.
Cool deal. Yea they (Toyota) were aware of the boot replacement kit that comes with the different packs of grease, but the guy also told me that hes got a bulletin that says both types of grease are the same and it doesn't matter if you use the black on the outer and the brown on the inner or vise versa.

I was going to take the complete half shafts to Toyota or another shop to put the axles in, but after talking with the Toyota techs and some other shops tech area this area, I've come to the conclusion that no one knows how to do this procedure.

I'm planning on using this method to separate the axle shafts:
http://vimeo.com/3089355

Already purchased 2 new snap rings just in case they break.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:24 AM   #6
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That's a great video and is exactly how you would do it at home in the garage....but don't be fooled by the video....it will not be as easy it was in that video! Be prepared for some cussing and swearing haha. Good luck.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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One more thing, get a box of latex gloves from any parts store... For working with the CV's. It will make your life easier.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
That's a great video and is exactly how you would do it at home in the garage....but don't be fooled by the video....it will not be as easy it was in that video! Be prepared for some cussing and swearing haha. Good luck.
Oh for sure, nothing ever goes as planned. I'm going to give myself 3 days to do everything, so hopefully that's enough time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
One more thing, get a box of latex gloves from any parts store... For working with the CV's. It will make your life easier.
Got em!
Thanks a bunch for your advise! Any gotcha's on bleeding the brakes? I have the FSM that outlines the procedure and it doesn't look any different than any other car i'v ever done. Not letting the system run out of fluid seems to be the most important thing to keep in mind.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anteupp View Post
Yep like monkeyproof said removing the axle from the outer cv is a royal pain in the ASS!
Did you have a shop do yours or did you do it yourself?
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:59 AM   #10
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Did it myself, and that little landcruiser trick didn't work lol! Idk if I wasn't banging it hard enough or what I gave up and brought it to my dads work and used a 50 ton press. If you need pics of anything let me know I got a few I think, I have a shitty video of me removing the cage and ball bearings from the birfield too.
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Old 02-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
That's a great video and is exactly how you would do it at home in the garage....but don't be fooled by the video....it will not be as easy it was in that video! Be prepared for some cussing and swearing haha. Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anteupp View Post
Did it myself, and that little landcruiser trick didn't work lol! Idk if I wasn't banging it hard enough or what I gave up and brought it to my dads work and used a 50 ton press. If you need pics of anything let me know I got a few I think, I have a shitty video of me removing the cage and ball bearings from the birfield too.
Yeah...fuck that dude in the video. I beat my axles so long I thought my dick was gonna be jealous. And I can't find a shop near me that can do it without alot of work...and no saving the original shaft either. And the birf only comes apart one way and be patient...lol

Dont bother with cv boot clamps, just get regular hose clamps large enough from the beginning.


Be sure all tapered adaptors are seated all the way. This may involve some work. First try installing them to the proper torque. If they didnt seat you need to remove them and grind out the taper slightly using a grinding point. The goal is to have the joint the proper torque and the joint fully seated. Otherwise...shit will break.

Make sure to grind the edge (facing you when sitting in the wheelwell working) of the LCA mounts so they clear the swing of the newer LCA's at both extreme positions of adjustment on the alignment cams. Otherwise you will wonder why you cant hold an alignment. Found this out the hard way.

What coilovers?

Resi mounts didnt fit either.


Great kit choice btw.


Anyways good luck, you have my number if you have any questions.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Yeah...fuck that dude in the video. I beat my axles so long I thought my dick was gonna be jealous. And I can't find a shop near me that can do it without alot of work...and no saving the original shaft either.

Anyways good luck, you have my number if you have any questions.

I hope mine come out relatively easy, but who knows how many times they had to edit that video to make it look so easy.

So you had to cut your shaft and fish it out of the birf? I bet that was a pain in the ass to clean afterwords too.

Thanks Mark!
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:08 PM   #13
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Sorry for the threadjack but where the hell did you guys get the new clip that holds the shaft in the birf besides the boot kit from TOYOTA
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09blacktaco View Post

I hope mine come out relatively easy, but who knows how many times they had to edit that video to make it look so easy.

So you had to cut your shaft and fish it out of the birf? I bet that was a pain in the ass to clean afterwords too.

Thanks Mark!
More than that. Even cutting the shaft and getting the inner portion of the birf out we still couldnt get the stub to push through and break the clip using a 20 ton press and a cheater bar. So then we chucked the stub in the lathe and back gouged from the other side into the "star" until the c-clip was exposed and removed. Then clean and re-assemble.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Dont bother with cv boot clamps, just get regular hose clamps large enough from the beginning.
I hear that, those clamps are a pain in the ass for sure if you don't have the tool to torque them down, which i don't. So hose clamps it is for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Be sure all tapered adaptors are seated all the way. This may involve some work. First try installing them to the proper torque. If they didnt seat you need to remove them and grind out the taper slightly using a grinding point. The goal is to have the joint the proper torque and the joint fully seated. Otherwise...shit will break.

Make sure to grind the edge (facing you when sitting in the wheelwell working) of the LCA mounts so they clear the swing of the newer LCA's at both extreme positions of adjustment on the alignment cams. Otherwise you will wonder why you cant hold an alignment. Found this out the hard way.

What coilovers?


Great kit choice btw.


Anyways good luck, you have my number if you have any questions.
Roger on the adapters & LCA mounts.

I went with the Fox 2.5 CO's. i already have the mid travel 2.5's and i love em,.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Sorry for the threadjack but where the hell did you guys get the new clip that holds the shaft in the birf besides the boot kit from TOYOTA
Tried several bearing supplies no one had anything close. Its not a c-clip, or an e-clip. I called it a cir-clip since it has a circular shape and cross section.

Ended up making one from music wire and thats the only axle ever to seperate for me using the "trick" lol

Luckily that was the shaft I broke.
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NwiTACO View Post
Sorry for the threadjack but where the hell did you guys get the new clip that holds the shaft in the birf besides the boot kit from TOYOTA
I bought mine individually from the parts dept at the dealership. Came out to like $3 and some change for 2 of them.


EDIT: I got 2 snap rings though, not the same thing?

EDIT#2: ok so I called the dealership back and ordered 2 hole snap rings and 2 inner snap rings. I figure worst case scenario, i have to modify one of the snap rings to fit the outer axle. I'm sure it will be fine. They didn't have a part listed for the ring that goes inside the birf.
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:25 PM   #18
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So I've decided to wait until all the various clips and snap rings come in from Toyota. I really don't want to break one of those snap rings and not have one on hand. Looks like its going to be next weekend now.
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09blacktaco View Post
I bought mine individually from the parts dept at the dealership. Came out to like $3 and some change for 2 of them.


EDIT: I got 2 snap rings though, not the same thing?

EDIT#2: ok so I called the dealership back and ordered 2 hole snap rings and 2 inner snap rings. I figure worst case scenario, i have to modify one of the snap rings to fit the outer axle. I'm sure it will be fine. They didn't have a part listed for the ring that goes inside the birf.
I am almost afraid to use another Toyota snap ring bc then I will never get my axle out if I need to.

The snap rings are different. If you cut throught them, one would be a round cross section and one rectangular. Round one is for the birf, rect. for the tripod on the inner end of the shaft.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:22 PM   #20
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So Im done with my first install day and everything went pretty smooth. I got the UCA, LCA, CO's, and halfshaft out quickly.



However, when I tryed to break the outer shaft away from the birfield....es no buenu. Tried the tube slamming trick, that didnt work at all, so i just cut the axles.

I was able to get the birf, cage, and balls out pretty easy, but I cant get the remaining axles bit out of the cage to save my life. Gonna go get it pressed out tomorrow.



I had a puller on it until it broke and the axles bits didnt budge a bit!



I trimmed the forward LCA mount to clear the LCA.



I installed the AP UCA on the drivers to side to check clearance and I could NOT get the 4 AP provided spacers in betwwen the inner bushings. I even lined the AP UCA up with my old TC UCA's and the AP arms were indeed narrower, so I just used a heavy duty spacer from work. THe LCA were the same way, the inner bushings of the LCA's were almost flush wiht the LCA mounts. I could fit 2 spacers on the outside bushings. What gives? Anyone else have this problem?



Seemed to work out I didnt have any play in the arm when tightened.





I done for the day, but I have 2 more days to complete this, so lets hope everything goes well and i can get that damn axle back in the birf! Looking forward to completing.
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