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Old 04-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #1
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Red face Noob to long travel

Hey all. I've got a '12 4wd tacoma dcsb. Long travel seems awesome to have, living in socal(I've spectated at a couple of baja races), but I sure as hell don't want to just rip into my truck just yet, you know it being new and all. I'm definitely going to go with the MT setup and maybe graduate to LT. that said, how does this look in terms of order of upgrading?

The following is just a hypothetical timeline:
1. bilstein 5100's all around, plus OME 885s up front, and UCAs
2. defined engineering SUA
3. shock hoops, coil bucket gussets, lca gussets(cam gussets?), spindle gussets
4. long travel kit, CO's
5. engine cage and/or bedcage
4 and 5 maybe be switched in order.


my questions are, is it worthwhile to beef up the the suspension parts/frame before actually installing the long travel kit(gussets)?

also, for bedcages, I see a lot of variation on these in terms of shock placement. some shocks are mounted toward the cab, while some are almost upright. what are the differences in performance on these? with the shocks mounted towards the cab, are the shocks typically beefier and longer to allow more travel/softer ride? would it be a vice versa situation with the shocks mounted almost vertical: decent travel, with a smaller shock body?

thanks in advance
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:21 PM   #2
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If LT is what you want then just wait and do that, no need for all this middle nonsense. Its just more money spent in the end...for more long travel info refer to these two threads:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lon...formation.html
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lon...ere-first.html
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:25 PM   #3
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all right. I've read both of those links already, but you just reinforced my take on LT(go big, or dont go at all). guess I'll definitely wait, but I sure as hell won't be doing anything until this truck is paid off. interior stuff before suspension, first
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:47 PM   #4
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OP,

You clearly have done some homework on this already. My hat goes off to you for that!
To your original comments/questions, billy's and OME coils with and UCA's is not really a MT setup. It's just a lift. King, Fox and Icon all make extended travel shocks for stock length LCA's if you replace the UCA's with a uniball style (TC/Camburg) UCA.

IMO there's nothing wrong with starting out with a MT setup. You used setups all the time for sale on here for decent deals. And who knows, 3 months down the road you may change you mind completely about offroading and owning a truck and its real easy to get rid of those parts or sell your truck as is. You severely limit your market once you install LT.

You're hypothetical timeline looks good to me. With the shock hoops, if you're buying prefabbed ones from TC/Burg, don't bother welding the shock tabs on. They are only tack welded on. Just knock them off and don't bother with them until/if you are ready to mount bypasses so you can cycle them correctly. I would save up and do 4 and 5 at the same time (and depending on your goal) do a full cage.

Lastly, not sure I'd recommend doing LT on a brand new 2012. LT takes a toll on a vehicle. You will break parts, and it hurts a lot more when the truck is brand spanking new.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:55 PM   #5
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Submitted to quick.

Gussets are always worthwhile.

As for bedcages, they vary from build to build for many reasons. First gens, vs second gens, stock axle vs extended aftermarket, maximum bed savings vs no bed at all. Angled slightly forward can allow for more travel (if the spring pack will allow), but the drawback is the shock will have to work harder and as a result the oil heats up faster. How the shock rides doesn't really have to do with shock positioning, that's done with shock valving and tuning.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:19 AM   #6
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jberry - thanks for your reply! I have been doing research here, even before I had purchased my truck at the end of march. I'm definitely not gonna feet first into long travel, but would definitely like to do baby steps(hey we gotta learn some how, right?). first and foremost, not gonna LT this baby until she is paid off. that said...

I do would like a lift up front, and a little capability in the rear, since I've read, that not LTing the rear is a detriment(bucking at speed).

since the OME 885 and bilstein 5100 combo is only a lift, it is not suited for neighborhood speeds offroad(25-40mph)? I would like to go this route, as it is inexpensive for the height, and that I should be able to clear some 285's(when the tires need replacing). the extended coilovers that fox, king, etc would provide more droop than the OME/bil combo, and obviously better valving?

not looking to go fast right away, and would like to buy things once(in this case, coilovers for mid travel vs coilovers for lt).

Im really curious about your answer regarding shocks heating up faster in the rear if they were mounted closer to the cab. why is this? it is better to have them mounted vertically since the shock follows the travel/range more directly?

I'm sure these questions have been asked before, but I wanted to make sure I got all of these questions in one thread. I know the "search" button, and those other links posted above. in any case, I appreciate the feedback.

meanwhile, I'll stick to lurking until I'm ready to build
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:55 AM   #7
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Billy (5100's) are not rebuildable or revalveable. Fox, King, and Icon can be valved any way you want. Depending on your "neigborhood" 25-40 mph can be done, but there's a lot of factors involved. Again it really depends on what your offroading goals are. If you just want to clear bigger tires to be offroad once or twice a year, yeah billy's will work no problem. If you're expecting to be able to hit a half mile whoop section at 40, probably not gonna happen.

Coilovers for midtravel are not the same as coilovers for LT. LT typically uses a standard 8" stroke shock. MT OEM replacements have a shorter shaft.

As I mentioned before, if you change the angle of dangle it can allow for more travel if the spring pack allows for it. At that point it's simple math. A 16" shock traveling only 16" does less work than a 16" traveling 18". The harder a shock has to work, the hotter the oil gets. Unless you're racing, its really a mute point and you'll probably never be able to tell the difference.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spd View Post
my questions are, is it worthwhile to beef up the the suspension parts/frame before actually installing the long travel kit(gussets)?
yes, it is definitely a good idea to beef stuff up before they break. I, unfortunately, beef things up after they break.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jberry813 View Post

IMO there's nothing wrong with starting out with a MT setup. You used setups all the time for sale on here for decent deals. And who knows, 3 months down the road you may change you mind completely about offroading and owning a truck and its real easy to get rid of those parts or sell your truck as is. You severely limit your market once you install LT.

Lastly, not sure I'd recommend doing LT on a brand new 2012. LT takes a toll on a vehicle. You will break parts, and it hurts a lot more when the truck is brand spanking new.

x2...

work with your current budget and get some seat time and wheeling experience first to see where you want to go...

i wheeled the desert for 4 years on Donahoes and Deavers before taking the plunge...

you could very well drop some serious cash on a build, only for the truck to sit in the garage half the time because you lose interest or other personal priorities keep you grounded...

and yes, on a brand new truck, any and every repair will make you cringe...

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Old 04-23-2012, 10:07 AM   #10
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my thoughts: don't molest a brand new 2012. buy a trailer and buy this truck.

it's cheaper, a better platform to build off of (most of the work is already done) and when you break it (which you will) you'll still be able to drive home and go to work the next day... and your brand new truck will still look pretty

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/truc...ies/159939.htm

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Old 04-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
yes, it is definitely a good idea to beef stuff up before they break. I, unfortunately, beef things up after they break.
If it aint broke, y fix it lol
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:12 PM   #12
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great feedback guys. much appreciation!

mike - I think baby steps is what I'll do. I think I will still reinforce what I can, all the way up to the actual LT kit. but like I said earlier, I won't be modding too heavily until it is paid off

nelson - that ride is SICK
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6spd View Post
great feedback guys. much appreciation!

mike - I think baby steps is what I'll do. I think I will still reinforce what I can, all the way up to the actual LT kit. but like I said earlier, I won't be modding too heavily until it is paid off

nelson - that ride is SICK
So since it's a 2012, I assume you have around 4 or 5 years to save and do it right?
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:26 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by lembowski View Post
So since it's a 2012, I assume you have around 4 or 5 years to save and do it right?
yes. hopefully, after I purchase a HOUSE
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