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Centering A Tacoma Front Differential

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Old 09-12-2012, 05:36 PM   #1
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Centering A Tacoma Front Differential

Hey Guys,
I've been thinking about this for a while. I want to toy with the idea of centering the front differential up front and running center mount A-arms down the road. I have made the following considerations:

- Engine may have to be pushed back or to the side, or even pivoted to allow room for front drive shaft to the centered diff

- A carrier bearing can be used to change the direct of the front drive shaft as well

- Inner A-Arm pivots need to be at the same location and distance apart as the inner CV pivot to avoid axle plunge.

- Obviously fully custom arms would be needed, almost center mount, but inner pivots the same distance apart as the flanges on the center mounted diff

Now, my question is, can the stock tacoma from differential be modified so only the center section is used as a centered front differential? Here's a picture to clarify:



Let's discuss, im looking for good ideas.
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:37 PM   #2
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Other front diff options out there that I have heard are:
- HD2500 center sections
- Dynatrac Pro60-IRS flipped: http://www.dynatrac.com/products/pro60irs/pro60irs.html
- Any rear diff flipped
- Hummer H2 Front Diff center section
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Old 09-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #3
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I think if you want to center link get rid of the taco front diff
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:15 PM   #5
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putting a rear diff in the front will not be as strong. By putting a standard cut in the front, it’s ring & pinion would ride on the coast side of the gears. Basically, it is not as much gear contact as it would be in the rear.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:34 PM   #6
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Are you planning on doing anything different with the rear? there was that jeep in the LT BS thread with a 9"(I think) up front with center mount.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawke88 View Post
putting a rear diff in the front will not be as strong. By putting a standard cut in the front, itís ring & pinion would ride on the coast side of the gears. Basically, it is not as much gear contact as it would be in the rear.

If it is a low pinion rear wouldn't you just be able to flip it and run it high pinion in the front and stay on the drive side of the gears?
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:45 PM   #8
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you can get by a little bit with a 2 piece driveshaft.
im thinking custom oil pan , or have a drysump system designed for the 1gr with a high clearance pan.
the motor isnt moving anywhere but back and that dosent help much.
the oem diff may cost some serious coin to modify . it may look easy in theory but you might be better going with a different diff. but anything else is taller than whats in there.
i thought about making a better 4wd lt setup for awhile now and its just not sensible or financially feesable. better to take your plans to a tube chassis, but thats just my opinion.
good luck with the adventure
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:56 PM   #9
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Currie makes a front center diff section..used by Shannon Campbell in both his IFS KOH rig and his full time 4wd class 1 buggy.


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Old 09-12-2012, 07:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyProof View Post
Currie makes a front center diff section..used by Shannon Campbell in both his IFS KOH rig and his full time 4wd class 1 buggy.
is it this one?:
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...6.aspx?id=3498
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:13 PM   #11
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thats the one..
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:17 PM   #12
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spidertrax is also making a unit that going in a penhall rig
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:25 PM   #13
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #14
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This whole thread is full of win!

I hope you/your fab guy figure this out I wanna see a 4WD center link second gen taco!!!
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:26 AM   #15
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That was gonna be my recommendation.

Happily subscribed.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:40 AM   #17
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Awesome sauce
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:43 AM   #18
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Just out of sheer curiosity (because I have no idea about LT), what is the purpose of this? I would assume that longer control arms would result in added travel and allow a taller shock?
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ThatGuy18 View Post
Just out of sheer curiosity (because I have no idea about LT), what is the purpose of this? I would assume that longer control arms would result in added travel and allow a taller shock?
The longer the arms the less camber change you have through travel. Making the arms longer usually makes the vehicle wider. By moving the pivots inward you can lengthen the arms without making the vehicle too wide.
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:18 PM   #20
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got a really nice response from RCV on the subject:
Quote:
In order to do so, you will need an independent front suspension differential housing. Currie sell the"F9 Fabricated" & Dynatrac sells the Pro 60-IRS.

For axles, the most common setup would be to run a Dana 60 outer cv joint like: http://www.rcvperformance.com/produc...px?sku=CVJ2216, and with a center shaft, connecting it to a 934 style inner cv joing like: http://www.rcvperformance.com/produc...sku=VL21-80-35. The 934 joint would bolt to a flange and connect directly to the differential. The completed axle set would be structured like the following (different outer joint though): http://www.rcvperformance.com/catego...S_CV_AXLES_ALT
Looks like Currie 9" is the best choice to go with, along with RCV CVs and Axles.

Oh, and Im not going to be doing this anytime soon, this is just out of curiosity. However, if I do decide to do something extravagant down the road to my truck, it would definitely be center mount 4x4 and links. No dirty hooker travel or twin traction beams for me
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