Dirt Designs 05+ Taco 4WD RACE kit

Sup with that chevys front wheel...doesn't look right.

 

Do you have a rough $$ estimate for the entire kit?

 

sub'd

 

Race truck camber, bro

 

It looks better when it's going 80 through whoops.

 

This

 

indeed

 

It has to do with the tire being centered in the wheel well. Steve usually pushes 2wd race kits forward in the wheel well for multiple reasons but to pull clean 4wd travel he centered the tire to keep the CV joints and axles in line with the factory. I took the truck out yesterday and put it to the test. The truck f$&king mobs even with the stock rear suspension

 

Yes? If youre reffering to why brians taco needed an alignment, it was due to blowing through stock cam tabs. but its all bueno now thanks to carlos.

Price is going to be $4200 for boxed upper arms (with delrin bushings), boxed lower arms (with delrin or poly bushings), boxed uprights for stock hubs and brakes, 1 in unis for pivots, full heimed tierod, ss rack adapter clevis', brakelines, limit straps, hardware, and upper shock mount plates for the stock shock bucket.

Delrin in the lower arm will hold up longer and doesnt need lube. BUUUUT it limits the alignment some. Because its hard (not a soft rubber) the alignment tabs should be kept inline on each side. So on pass side dont turn the front cam all the way out and back cam all the way in. They should both be out, or in, or wherever...just matched.

At ride height the truck is right at 72" wms (with cam bolts centered, and including rotors). With the lower arm completely horizontal the kit is at 74" wms.

No one makes heavy enough springs for the duramax. It has 19.5x 800 springs with some preload, but its still sitting 2-3in low. So right no hes sitting at where the camber curve starts kicking in. He going to beams instead of custom springs now.

Yep what joel said. that and the 2wd is about 1.5per side wider then the 4wd due to the lift spindle. Because of the lift spindle the tire doesnt tuck as high with stock buckets (4wd stuffs up higher), and the tire sits out farther so it clears the firewall. I CAN push this 4wd kit forward an inch to clear the firewall, but then youd start hitting the front of the inner fender hard by an extra inch.

 

What Steve did with the front kit is absolutely amazing. Even for having stock rear suspension right now I took it out and was completely blown away. The only thing it cant do right now is choppy whoop sections but that will be fixed soon when the rear gets done.

 

Don't take any of this out of context, just some constructive criticism but I guess I'm a little confused... were you not able to fit a 35 under there cleanly? If I read the earlier posts correctly Joel ended up with a 295/70/17 which is only a 33. Granted its a Toyo so probably closer to a skinny 34 but I guess I just don't understand your logic. I fit 35s pretty easily with a +2 All Pro kit and very easily with my Camburg kit. I'm 4wd, pulling better than 14" up front (shock selection) and I have never rubbed on the firewall, no abnormal trimming just the cab mount chop and flattened pinch weld. Because of my shock choice my truck bumps out higher than others and at full bump my tires are just barely into the inner fender but they do touch. I will drag skid plate before the truck is at full bump.

Most kits have some caster built into them generally with the intention of clearing a larger tire away from the cab and aiding in alignment, hell even stock length replacement arms have as much as 2* built into them, knowing that I'm curious why you wouldn't take this into account. I wish I had my last alignment sheet handy to give an example but for reference when we are aligning a truck with Icons and a stock width Camburg UCA and 33s were sending them out the door with almost 2.7* of caster or better. I bet I'm even higher than that with my kit.

The width of the kit really shouldn't have any effect on the maximum tire size, by that logic one with a 12" over kit I should be able to tuck 39s right?

In the end its just all banter from the peanut gallery and I cant judge as I certainly don't have the skill set to build my own kit from scratch, just observations. The kit looks great and I'm sure it works just as well. Nice job dude.

Just for reference: 315/75/16 BFGs at full bump, i can go almost lock to lock at full bump with no rubbing

 

Also a little puzzled by this...what gives? Truck and kit looks phenomenal though!

 

A 35" bfg yes, a toyo 35 no. And the toyos he brought in 295/70r17 did measure just under 34 when inflated. Same size as our 35in bfg projects

As far as this kit rubbing 35s it could be because there is MORE caster built into this kit then others. At ride height this kit is around 5deg of caster. The reason I built in even more caster is so at full droop the caster never goes positive (bad thing and common on tacos with lt). With more caster the upright is layed back and tire has more of an arc to its path. The extra arc COULD be the reason, but again you are talking about a bfg 35 clearing....so a 34.

And when you say that the tire doesnt rub, have you pulled your shocks coils and factory rubber out (rubber will compress a lot more while mobbing then just lifting the truck on the rubber). If you have hydro bumps they dont need to be pulled, just aired down. then bump out the kit either till the shock is fully collapsed or the uca is just shy of the inner fender well. Turn the tire full left and full right. With 35in bfgs, it clears. If i dont pull the rubber stop it cleared the 35 toyos.

yes the wider your arms are, the farther the tire is from the cab. a 12 over kit might clear 39s if you trim the glass. Again... the rubbing im talking about with 35s isnt driving straight and bumping out, its steering lock to lock at the highest point the kit will see. Also with the 2wd kit it has a lift spindle, so when the uca hits the inner fender, the tire is actually lower in the wheel well.

Thank you

 

If youre referring to the skid plate dragging but when you did full bump in the driveway to check you have clearance, its MOST likely a combo of 3 things

1. Your stock rubber bumps smash more then when you checked ground clearance.

2. Your bfg 35...really a 34 is bulged and has the clearance of say a 30in tire or smaller.

3. you came down a little nose first. the skid is in front of the tire so the

sin(angle of truck)*distance from bumper tube to center of tire contact patch = loss of ground clearance.


Running higher pressure in a race tire helps with bulge as most are 7-10ply thick and dont have any tire bulge with truck weight even with pressure down at 3-5psi. So 25-30 psi on the track keeps the tire from bulging much and keeps the ground clearance...but it makes for a much rougher ride through the rocky/stutter parts of the track.

 

again, not trying to but full bump, 35" toyos... the BFG photo was just a better shot of full bump. these measure over 35s



truck was cycled both during the initial Burg install and when we did bypasses, no need for air bumps. I am not able to use 100% of my steering while at full bump but i would say that I can utilize maybe 70% without any contact but lets be honest, if you're at full bump/full lock out in the dez you probably already have bigger problems than your tires rubbing...

My front end is very similar. Custom spindles, double sheered and heimed steering, 4x4, etc etc. Any reason for using only bushings as opposed to heims and uniballs in the uppers and lowers?

Edit: 70% might be a little high but now I'm really curious haha, gunna pull everything once I get the truck back and get a real confirmed number.

 

So what would you say to someone planning on running this kit with 37's? (bulhas cough cough) Although I don't know how much mobbing he will be doing with it. Mostly he is going LT to help him clear the 37's.

 

From what I understand, DD,s kit is engineered with more caster than everyone else's. So if I get this right...the top of the spindle is angled back more towards the firewall and the bottom if the spindle is pushed more towards the front of the truck hence providing tons of caster. Sounds similar to what happens when guys add more caster through a Light Racing UCA.

 

more caster is fine!!! I would prefer to cut part of my inner fender away, but i read this as a firewall issue not an inner fender issue

if its a firewall issue its a matter of how much of an issue, as when i add 37's i really dont want to have re tub again

 

So you dont clear 35s full bump lock to lock?

i thought the same thing before racing, but lock to lock and full bump happens often. Some of those tight turns are massively whooped out. So you crank the wheel and slam through them hard if you wanna keep up with the pace.

I can offer him a pushed forward kit. 1.5" forward will clear 37s on the firewall very easy. He just needs to trim the front of the glass and inner fenders accordingly.

yep. More so uca pulled back and lca is forward slightly....though that depends where your cam bolts are.

 

damn when i reloaded the page i should of checked for more pages before posting i guess lol