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Old 11-12-2010, 12:05 PM   #21
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Front D-rings are nice. How did you install those? I was told that additinal D-Rings couldn't be installed due to the new composite bed.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by obanion63 View Post
Front D-rings are nice. How did you install those? I was told that additinal D-Rings couldn't be installed due to the new composite bed.
There's a couple methods. I bought the same D-rings that are mounted in the back of the bed and drilled out two of the water drain holes in the front of the bed. I put a decent size plate washer on the underside so it couldn't pull through. I've hauled the motorcycle quite a few times like this and haven't had any issues.
The other option is to pull the bolts that secure the bed to the frame and attach the D-rings using them. For heavy hauling this would be better since you're attaching to the frame directly.
I opted for the drain holes because they're spaced further apart and give better side to side stability when hauling the bike.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:21 PM   #23
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Good deal. Thanks a lot!
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:54 AM   #24
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Canyon dancers allow the bars to turn. I've switched over to soft straps on the lower triples and the bars have not turned since. I don't use a chock, just park the tire against the bed wall. No issues.
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Old 11-15-2010, 10:59 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by buck View Post
Canyon dancers allow the bars to turn. I've switched over to soft straps on the lower triples and the bars have not turned since. I don't use a chock, just park the tire against the bed wall. No issues.
Can't get a strap to the triple tree on this bike/truck combo, it doesn't clear the fairings, believe me, I tried. I had the bed flex on me once with this truck and the tire turned so now I use the chock. Very simple/cheap fix for a potentially expensive problem. This is the only truck I've ever had that happen with by the way. I only haul the bike a couple times a year so I take my time loading/unloading, securing and traveling.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:44 AM   #26
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I havent hauled a bike in my DC yet. previous truck was a ford ranger, I always load the bike diagonally with the front tire held by the bedsides. also preload your suspension so it's bottomed out when you tie the bike down, if the bike cant bounce your straps wont come loose
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:54 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan0 View Post
I havent hauled a bike in my DC yet. previous truck was a ford ranger, I always load the bike diagonally with the front tire held by the bedsides. also preload your suspension so it's bottomed out when you tie the bike down, if the bike cant bounce your straps wont come loose
I wouldn't bottom out the suspension, no reason to have that much tension on the straps or on your fork seals. Just colapse them enough so they won't bounce. With my bike, colapsing them about 1/2 the travel distance works well. Depending on the bike, bottoming out the suspension puts a lot of pressure on your seals and could cause some damage.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:04 AM   #28
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I also have a tonneau cover (no offense but it's in slightly better shape than yours . I built a brace that holds my front tire away from the tonneau. BUT it also disperses the forward pressure along the entire front of the bed. I'll see if I can dig up a photo but it's essentially a 2x6 cut to fit in the bed. Its painted black with cat litter mixed in to give it texture - holds the front from moving. I have also considered adding eye-bolts on either side of where my tire sits to add extra stability.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:13 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veccster View Post
I also have a tonneau cover (no offense but it's in slightly better shape than yours . I built a brace that holds my front tire away from the tonneau. BUT it also disperses the forward pressure along the entire front of the bed. I'll see if I can dig up a photo but it's essentially a 2x6 cut to fit in the bed. Its painted black with cat litter mixed in to give it texture - holds the front from moving. I have also considered adding eye-bolts on either side of where my tire sits to add extra stability.
What tonneau cover?
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:26 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I wouldn't bottom out the suspension, no reason to have that much tension on the straps or on your fork seals. Just colapse them enough so they won't bounce. With my bike, colapsing them about 1/2 the travel distance works well. Depending on the bike, bottoming out the suspension puts a lot of pressure on your seals and could cause some damage.
I always use a shock brace between front tire and fender, snug as you want with no bounce. Several years ago I watched my Dads dirt bike compress and unhook one of the Ancra straps, of course the outside one stayed hooked, launching his bike off the trailer, and dragging it till he got the truck stopped. Lucky we were on a back road close to where we were to ride and was only going 30ish.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:36 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4daddy View Post
I always use a shock brace between front tire and fender, snug as you want with no bounce. Several years ago I watched my Dads dirt bike compress and unhook one of the Ancra straps, of course the outside one stayed hooked, launching his bike off the trailer, and dragging it till he got the truck stopped. Lucky we were on a back road close to where we were to ride and was only going 30ish.
I was going to suggest a fork brace as well but I don't see how it could work on this type of bike. I started using one after my KTM fell off the back of our trailer when we hit a severe bump.

If you are allowing room for compression in the suspension, add a bungee cord between your front straps. As the suspension compresses, the bungee keeps the connections to the bars and D-rings tight I usually run it right over my front tire. You could also use carabeeners (sp).


Yeah...that's a nice tonneau! I've never seen one with a front skylight like that.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veccster View Post
I was going to suggest a fork brace as well but I don't see how it could work on this type of bike. I started using one after my KTM fell off the back of our trailer when we hit a severe bump.

If you are allowing room for compression in the suspension, add a bungee cord between your front straps. As the suspension compresses, the bungee keeps the connections to the bars and D-rings tight I usually run it right over my front tire. You could also use carabeeners (sp).


Yeah...that's a nice tonneau! I've never seen one with a front skylight like that.
Yeah great point, forgot most street bikes have the fender mounted to the lower shocks. Epic fail on my part. Works great on DS, dirt and motards.
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Old 07-22-2011, 07:58 PM   #33
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Nice write up.............here is what I use. A very good product.
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:28 PM   #34
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I'm probably going to have to ride my motorcycle up to get whatever truck I end up getting. Is there not any other way to secure the front end in without putting the D rings in? I'm not going to be keeping the bike much longer So don't want to spend extra just to get everything back home. Not to mention wont have a way to drill anything while picking it up...



Was hoping to put it in at an angle and close tail gait but I guess not..

May have to hope someone has the day off to drive me up to get whatever truck I get...
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:39 PM   #35
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This picture messed with my brain
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:33 AM   #36
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I'm probably going to have to ride my motorcycle up to get whatever truck I end up getting. Is there not any other way to secure the front end in without putting the D rings in? I'm not going to be keeping the bike much longer So don't want to spend extra just to get everything back home. Not to mention wont have a way to drill anything while picking it up...



Was hoping to put it in at an angle and close tail gait but I guess not..

May have to hope someone has the day off to drive me up to get whatever truck I get...
Some people have used the plastic D-rings but personally I wouldn't trust them with the weight of a motorcycle. You could get some D-rings and use the bed bolts to secure them to the frame. That would eliminate the drilling but you'd need a torx head bit and a ratchet (and maybe a breaker bar). Are you definitely getting a Tacoma? If not, most other trucks have heavy tie down points in the front of the bed (as they should).

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This picture messed with my brain
How come? I backed the truck up to the hill so I could just roll the bike straight on to the truck rather than have to make it drive up the ramp. Much easier and I don't even have to start the bike.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:21 AM   #37
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Make sure to keep the bike in gear.... I forgot to last weekend and was wondering why my bike was moving back & forth in the bed LOL
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:27 AM   #38
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Make sure to keep the bike in gear.... I forgot to last weekend and was wondering why my bike was moving back & forth in the bed LOL
If you've got it properly secured, it shouldn't matter if it's in gear or not... If the bike can move, it's not tied down properly and should be secured better, in my opinion. Also, even if left in gear a motorcycle can move slightly.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:36 AM   #39
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I might also suggest the readyramp.com
They have the arch to prevent bottoming-out and also act as a bed extender by sitting on an open tailgate, and rated at about 1000 lbs. Below is a pic of a past Silverwing, which surprisingly has a longer wheelbase than an ST1100. in the bed of an S-10. Have also carried ST1100's with no problem.

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Old 05-06-2012, 01:11 PM   #40
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D-Rings have to be found for cheaper than that!!!!

What ramp is that and where do you store it? I see it's a nice wider one, those single 12' wide ramps look sketchy. You can get it up, but how do you get it down? (Talking about narrow ramps).
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