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Old 05-27-2014, 02:53 PM   #21
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StAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shedStAndrew is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
Mod: Radiator Clutch Fan* Delete
Estimated Savings: 12lbs rotational mass, 0.68mpg, or $23.53/year based on $4/gallon gas
Hp Gain: 0.2 constant, 1.0 during fan engage
Time Taken: 75 minutes (The clutch was quite stuck )

I'll get to fabbing up a mount and installing the electric fan tomorrow hopefully. I'm going to be using a 12v fan off of a 99 Volvo V70 XC, because I have it on hand

Careful, for an electric fan to work, it will have to cool more efficiently than the OEM clutch fan. You lose efficiency transferring mech energy to electrical (via your alternator) and again when you transfer from electrical to mechanical (via your fan motor). Dont use an "on" "off" switch as that will give you alternator a power shock. It has to come on slowly. Check out the Flex-a-lite speed control modules.

Also, don't let the engine get too hot or you may lose your internal combustion efficiency (as the internal temps go up, the ECM may pull timing).

Lastly, on your gearing/RPM's. Lower RPM's are not always the best. You need to find the RPM that is the max efficiency for your engine, usually between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. Sometimes you can loose MPG's from going too low.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StAndrew View Post
Careful, for an electric fan to work, it will have to cool more efficiently than the OEM clutch fan. You lose efficiency transferring mech energy to electrical (via your alternator) and again when you transfer from electrical to mechanical (via your fan motor). Dont use an "on" "off" switch as that will give you alternator a power shock. It has to come on slowly. Check out the Flex-a-lite speed control modules.

Also, don't let the engine get too hot or you may lose your internal combustion efficiency (as the internal temps go up, the ECM may pull timing).

Lastly, on your gearing/RPM's. Lower RPM's are not always the best. You need to find the RPM that is the max efficiency for your engine, usually between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. Sometimes you can loose MPG's from going too low.
Appreciate the advice. I understand the efficiency losses between the fan types. I plan to keep temps below 200, so whatever needs to happen to make that a reality will be the case. I rarely drive at constant throttle and always aim for 75-85% engine load during acceleration phase to achieve peak bsfc while avoiding WOT
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:06 PM   #23
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another chart

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/vin/
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:11 PM   #24
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I'm not positive, I'm guessing it's 3.545 based on the B03 mark.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:17 PM   #26
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I'll submit my order asap!

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Originally Posted by AR15xAR10 View Post
You also need a TW sticker if you don't have one. It gains you at least 15hp and 0.329161016 mpg. lololol
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:23 PM   #27
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Mod: Power Steering Belt Removed
Savings: 1mpg or 36.75gallons/$147 per year based on 10,000 miles
Time: 2 Minutes
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:27 PM   #28
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If things go well

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Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
Mod: Power Steering Belt Removed
Savings: 1mpg or 36.75gallons/$147 per year based on 10,000 miles
Time: 2 Minutes
I should be able to hit 30mpg on my next fillup
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:55 PM   #30
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Cost over time

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Originally Posted by AR15xAR10 View Post
I sure hope you find it worth all the removal of these wonderful luxuries! I'm not giving up my power steering or AC! Lol
If I reach my goal of $2,500 saved per year (by doubling the EPA estimate of 16mpg) I will save $25,000 in the 10 years I plan on owning this truck. I figure this will allow me to purchase another rental property and continue to live mortgage free and debt free on a modest income. I enjoy the challenge of it and the savings that it brings. To each his own
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Old 05-27-2014, 04:00 PM   #31
Don't Let Your Meatloaf
AR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shedAR15xAR10 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
If I reach my goal of $2,500 saved per year (by doubling the EPA estimate of 16mpg) I will save $25,000 in the 10 years I plan on owning this truck. I figure this will allow me to purchase another rental property and continue to live mortgage free and debt free on a modest income. I enjoy the challenge of it and the savings that it brings. To each his own
Oh, well shit....in that case, carry on!!! Best of luck
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:29 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
Mod: Power Steering Belt Removed
Savings: 1mpg or 36.75gallons/$147 per year based on 10,000 miles
Time: 2 Minutes
Won't that make steering a ***** and unsafe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
If I reach my goal of $2,500 saved per year (by doubling the EPA estimate of 16mpg) I will save $25,000 in the 10 years I plan on owning this truck. I figure this will allow me to purchase another rental property and continue to live mortgage free and debt free on a modest income. I enjoy the challenge of it and the savings that it brings. To each his own
Great plan!
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:41 PM   #33
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This is one of the most interesting threads I've read on here lol. I give you props, because I don't have the patience to drive like that to achieve your gas mileage nor would I want to take out the A/C or power steering because of my area lol. Def subbed. Curious to see how you will continue to make improvements. Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:44 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper678 View Post
Won't that make steering a ***** and unsafe?
Maybe if you have pencil arms

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Originally Posted by NOLA ItsNotOva View Post
This is one of the most interesting threads I've read on here lol. I give you props, because I don't have the patience to drive like that to achieve your gas mileage nor would I want to take out the A/C or power steering because of my area lol. Def subbed. Curious to see how you will continue to make improvements. Good luck!
Thanks
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:00 PM   #35
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Maybe if you have pencil arms
Ha. Ha.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:29 AM   #36
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Haulin A$$

My first trip towing the tool trailer. I had a 52 mile round trip of mixed driving. I hit 21mpg and only brought my overall tank average down to 27.



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Old 05-28-2014, 12:34 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
I'm not positive, I'm guessing it's 3.545 based on the B03 mark.
explains the better gas mileage then. most 31" are on 4.10 gears. If you have 3.53 then you "should" be running 225/70-15s from factory (95-97ish were still using 15's)
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Old 05-28-2014, 06:27 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frizzman View Post
explains the better gas mileage then. most 31" are on 4.10 gears. If you have 3.53 then you "should" be running 225/70-15s from factory (95-97ish were still using 15's)
I'll happily make the gearing a little taller with the 245/75/16's. They are close enough to stock size that it shouldn't create any issues with the clutch/trans/diff, and should provide better fuel economy + load rating.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:25 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyjd View Post
I'll happily make the gearing a little taller with the 245/75/16's. They are close enough to stock size that it shouldn't create any issues with the clutch/trans/diff, and should provide better fuel economy + load rating.
I'm not saying you should, hey if it works then keep it as is. BUT know that the PO put larger tires on without re-gearing so that would explain to others more of why you're seeing around 30 mpg daily. And it's not taking much of a hit if you feather it and don't carry any load in the truck. Like you said less rolling mass all around means less work to get the truck moving.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:38 AM   #40
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:)

Quote:
Originally Posted by frizzman View Post
I'm not saying you should, hey if it works then keep it as is. BUT know that the PO put larger tires on without re-gearing so that would explain to others more of why you're seeing around 30 mpg daily. And it's not taking much of a hit if you feather it and don't carry any load in the truck. Like you said less rolling mass all around means less work to get the truck moving.
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