2004 Tacoma totally dead after new brake pads

Good Evening, all...
I purchased a 2004 Tacoma new. I've never had a bit of trouble and now with 52K. I recently had my first tune up and brake pads were a worn, so, returned today for new pads. A little problem with EBrake light, which I just pushed back down to extinguish. The technician also lubricated the EBrake switch. Drove to my local American Legion this evening and when I returned to the car, it would not start. Interior lights came on, all warning lights came on, but, nothing when I turned the key. After several attempts, checked the battery, although all interior lights, radio worked fine. Checked the brake fluid level in case fluid had been lost during the new pad install...level seemed fine, but, rocked the fluid reservoir and made sure the connector to the fluid reservoir was solid. I turned on the headlights and the car started.
My question is...what circumstance would exist to keep the car from starting or turning over. Can a low brake fluid sensor keep the car from starting? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

 

Regarding starting problem. After a bit of reading I'm suspecting the ignition switch. When rotating switch to position 1, all dashboard indicators came on, i.e., seat belt, battery, check engine, etc. When I switch to position 2 (start) absolutely nothing, no clicking, no lights dimmed and no change in indicators (still on). No indication of relays clicking...no sound. I don't know if turning on headlights had anything to do with problem, I suspect not. Thanks

 

Clearly the brake pads / brake system has nothing to do with the starting issue.

Possibly the tune up might, not sure exactly what "tune up" entails (different things to different people). New plugs, wires, cap, rotor? That stuff is at least more related to the engine starting and running than the brake pads and fluid are.

Original battery?

I'd check the battery connections to ensure that the mechanic didn't remove the ground and fail to properly re-install it as he did the tune up; if all is secure, I'd suspect a bad battery. Headlights, interior lights, etc., can easily work if the battery is too discharged to start the vehicle, so those aren't really a good indicator.

 

Thanks for your response MeefZah...
The problem turns out to be a sticking solenoid on the starter motor. I was not hearing the single click because my windows were rolled up. Checking out pricing for a starter presently. I had my battery tested and all was fine. It was just 1 year old and fully functional. The ignition switch checked out OK as well. Thanks

 

My battery died while I was changing pads a few weeks ago. I had the radio on, but that's normal. I jumped it. Worked fine another week then totally crapped out. It was an 07 original though.

 

With a charged battery, if you hear a click sound when you engage the starter, then it is most probably burned copper solenoid contacts. This is a very common problem. You can try to tap the starter to reseat the contacts. If that works, you should replace them. A new set of contacts runs less than $15 and take less than 30 minutes to replace once the starter has been removed.

 

First suggestion is fire that mechanic. Never go back. Don't let him ever touch it again. Find a good talented honest one. Not suggesting last one isn't. Just don't take the chance. It worked out like shit. Move on.

 

Yes, you are probably right. But, the OP's thread title was exciting.

Just reminded me of when I bought my mother a cheap car. I then worked on it for a whole day. Got it running perfectly. She even complained that it had too much acceleration. She was so happy.

She calls me a week later. She stopped to get gas and station manager offers to check oil. $200 later she is driving home with a car that is running rough.

Not that there are mechanics who would do that kind of thing. Not saying that.

 

Good Afternoon, all...

Based on the advice of my usual repair shop, they quoted $197 for a new starter motor and $88 to install plus tax. I ordered a new starter motor from a wholesale website for $83.20. It was new, so, no core charge involved. My grandson installed it (he's a BMW tech), and lo and behold it didn't work. Same problem. He's a whiz with diagnostics. He went home and picked up his reader and meter and located the problem .... ready? My 2004 Tacoma is a stick shift. Any clues? It was my floor mat. As I get in and out I push the floor mat forward, eventually I pull it back. The floor mat was thick enough under the clutch pedal to keep a switch from activating that allowed current to the starter motor. Well, now I have a new starter motor and a used one as a backup. It's always sumthin'