New England B.S. Thread

The bar might get some protection but it's not overly well braced back to anything substantial. If someone really hits it, it'll bend or break but it is stronger than a bull bar.

Nope, we got a Honda Accord a few months ago. Actually just started another thread this morning about the maintenance requirements for it. Dealership wants $479 for the 30k mile service

 

Not bad..have to keep it in my head, unless I fall into something. Is there usually a big price diff between the 2 styles?

$479? Ow. Just think of the lights you can buy with that..

EDIT: Just read it and I'll echo that valve adj already seems awful unnecessary. If I remember right the old Hondas (as in early 80's) needed it done every 15-20k or so, not sure why but I read something about that when I was looking for cars as a youngster.

 

When they stopped making 1gens Toyota started really cheeping out lmaoo. I have a key ring but hot it from a 97.

 

I just adjusted mine on my truck not too long ago. Service manual recommends checking around 100k some were spec'd some a few thou out not a Ton but I spec'd them and could hear and tell a difference. Go to a Ducati dealer and see what they want for this job....$2900

 

Price-wise, the bull bars and an NFab bar like mine are very similar and usually just over $100 (bull bars can be more expensive and certain light bars can climb up there in price also).

I'm not paying the dealership that kind of money but the valve adjustment isn't something I can do on my own. If it really needed it, I'd pay them the $300 to do it but it seems like it's just the dealership raping people who don't really know better. The rest of it I'll do on my own for about $100 (oil/filter change, rotate tires and transmission fluid change)

 

My 92 Toyota pickup is the same as your old honda. Every 15-20k have to adjust the valve lash. Real easy to do. I was unaware the 2.7 need it done.

 

Do you think removing wheel spacers will effect my alignment ? I think not, just looking for opinions. BTW, posted in the NE marketplace FS:4 1.25" spidertrax

 

I figure that's not terrible for price, doesn't have to be top of the line if I won't use the truck offroad and don't want it chromed or anything either.

I like the way you're thinking, do what you can and let them have the rest. That seems a little silly to me though to need the adjustment so soon.

 

Anyone know of any good places for health care, my work is doing their own version of Obama care apparently.

 

No, it should not have any affect on your alignment.

 

Feeler gauge and a 8mm wrench and the sheet for specs done deal

 

Ill make copies when I get home tomorrow night and post them. We are at the track now. My mind is being blown literally

 

Run run run lmfao. I have Blue Cross

 

I have no idea what I'm doing with valve adjustment though That's one of those things I'll happily pay someone else to do if/when the time comes.

 

My benefits are starting penalties on us if our health numbers don't look good

 

I respect that. Some are good with many things but when it comes to engine work they run

 

It's not even that, it's just engine work on cars/trucks these days. I'll tear right into a motorcycle, snowmobile, lawn mower, etc but when it comes to a $15-25k vehicle, no thanks. I know I can easily end up with a substantial repair bill if I screw something up where as a motorcycle, I can rebuild it pretty cheap if it comes to that.

 

Thanks

 

Most places will be doing that soon enough. It helps keep cost down for employers, so they try to encourage healthy lifestyles to keep costs down

 

Its really pretty simple. Not much to mess up either. Hardest part is making sure the piston for cylinder you are working on is in correct location(tdc iirc)

Remove valve cover
Set piston of cylinder to correct orientation in its cycle
Use wrench to loosen jamb nut, use screwdriver to change lash
use valve lash measuring thing(forget the name, just a bunch of flat pieces of metal of different thicknesses) and stick one piece at a time between valve and roller until one fits. That's what its at. Use screwdriver to adjust to factory spec. Tighten jamb nut, recheck. Repeat in factory spec'd order.

Make sure to it after engine has fully warmed up.