Wyoming B.S. Thread

Nice, I did notice how high and tight yours was!

 

I just hacked my exhaust off where is was angled down and moved the tip. A little bit noisier at WOT, but basically un-noticeable. I'm still running the oem exhaust though.

 

hmmm the sawzall may make an appearance tonight....

 

Would be easier than the grinder I used. haha

 

Oh well then there is nothing to worry about. Better get used to that sound for lander

Heck ya!

 

You better..put that locker and gears to use

 

you have to come, it's so purdy up thur!

 

Damn pricey..

Your going 285/75s huh??

Idk..ill ask him.

Offroading with a manual take practice. You can NOT think about it like an auto. Sometime you just gonna let it roll. Disengaging and engaging as fast as possible is keep to saving the clutch. But offroad is hard on it no doubt. But I've never smelt mine.

Just takes practice. 4.88s will make it hook way freaking better.

 

I second the practice off-road with a manny. It's no walk in the park like an auto but that makes it more rewarding for me. I've never smelt mine either but I have ridden it in a few spots where too much would have probably been a scrape due to momentum. I need to get skids so I can just "let it roll" like monte said

 

Get good at starting mid hill man. You have sections where that's where you have to stop. Or rocks create same thing.

The keep is knowing the exact point where your clutch engages. You find that spot while your using the brake to hold you Nathen just like taking off on flat ground when you use the accelerator and clutch do the same with the clutch and brake till the clutch holds up the truck. Then go to the accelerator to give a small amount if power and let the rest if the clutch out at the same time. Get really good at that and you can handle big rocky sections going up.

Going down is similar. But you use the brake till the clutch want to big the motor down then realse the clutch and just use brake. That's for dropping of big rocks and ledges. Then slowing renegade clutch and let f brake till is back in.

 

Haha spinning the tires!!

Nice lol

Yea the clutch holding you is key. Don't want to takeoff too fast or too slow and hit the guys around you on the trail haha

 

Well..you can back into me haha

 

my truck is back on the ground! No brake line leaks after a quick test run, F yea. Run through all the torques again tomorrow night and then drive 1,000 miles on Sat! WOO, I'll probably be missing for a week or so. not like you guys would miss me lol

 

Was this directed at me? Haha

 

Sweet!!

Have a good trip man

 

No idea..

But pulling the diffs ain't a walk in the park. Front is a pita. But they are doable.

Find someone to help and you'll be fine to do it yourself.

 

To regear front and rear? I paid ECGS $2250 last year. That included regearing the front and rear diffs, installing an ARB in the front diff, shipping the diffs to me, and shipping my diffs back. All new bearings and such for everything in the diffs.

All I had to do was put the diffs themselves into my Tacoma, which isn't that bad, even for doing it myself for the 1st time. If I had to do it a 2nd time it would go much faster since I know what I am doing now, but I still did it in like a 24 hours period, just split into two days (started in the afternoon of one day and finished the next morning).

 

Nice! that's not bad at all. Gage, I can help you get your Diffs in and out if you go the ECGS route. That'd save you some cash for tires and you'd know ECGS did a kick ass job putting them together...

 

Yea I'd just DIY.

 

^ DIY the diffs on the truck or the ECGS DIY?