I'm Stuck - Tell Me How To Get Out.

I'm aware of the benefits of deflating the tires, but completely overlooked re-inflating those tires until this thread. Anyway, I have a cheap 12v compressor (Harbor Freight) to throw into the truck, but obviously looking for something more substantial.

That's identical to the MV50 someone mentioned earlier, right? Both definitely look like the best options. Since both are virtually the same price, guess I'll flip a coin to decide which to buy.

 

they are one and the same..just branded slightly different.

the one i had lasted well over 2 years and survived just about every weekend of use, and not only only inflating my tires but those who didnt have a compressor that was with us. not bad for 60 bucks at the time. it recently died from an eternal mechanical malfunction. i am not complaining and will be buying another for a replacement.

i got tired of always unpacking/repacking the compressor i end up hard mounting the compressor inside my engine compartment..

 

^^ Oh, that's cool. Fits in so well, looks like it actually belongs in the engine compartment. All except the bright yellow (detachable) hose, of course.

 

i have the ARB mini compressor mounted on the other side to power my front locker

 

I mounted my compressor and tank in my bed box.

 

my MF-1050 compressor is for airing up the tires and the ARB mini compressor is for the front locker..

there are ways where you can have a single air source to power everything that you need..i just dont have the time for something like that right now

 

Correct though the mini arb isn't advisable to use to inflate tires. The duty cycle is a little low for larger tires.

Plus for the money you're better off running two MV50s and a tank all plumbed together and to run your locker etc... The mv50 has a higher duty cycle anyway.

http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/PDF/compressorTechnicalSpecifications.pdf

http://www.yotatech.com/f31/masterflow-superflow-air-compressor-mf-1050-mv-50-a-64004/index3.html

check post 55


I have a 100% duty cycle puma compressor and carry a shitty walmart compressor as back up. That's why dual mv50s makes sense as well. If one takes a dump at least you can air up with the other.

 

Heres two more great links.

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/

http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-coastal-cruisers/392416-twin-compressors.html

Thanks for the compliments and rep.

 

We made a extraction kit, 3 come-a-longs, lots of straps, and hardware. It was all kept in a tote. Don't forget a good supply of beer. I've been in this situation to many times.

 

One time in a jeep cj 5 my dad got stuck. Dude spent a few years in Vietnam, so he had skills. We were buried to the axles in greasy mud. We found a couple of railroad ties and cut a lot of brush. We made a lever out of the railroad ties, but there was not a lot of leverage with the short railroad tie so it took me, my dad and mom all to lift the jeep. Once we had it in the air, we used my mom as the counter weight while me and dad built a roadbed under the tires. Yes my mom was quite a large woman back then. She swore at the time never to tell anyone that she could counter balance a jeep. It took quite a few hours to get out this way, but all we needed was an ax and some timber.

Moral of the story is carry the full size ax and full size shovel at the bare minimum. They don't cost much. Of course now I have a winch and other stuff, but the ax and shovel is still the most important and lightest equipment. Maybe add a saw to that list.

Also don't go 4 wheeling in a giant truck.

Offroad trucks were meant to be light weight and small, which is why the Tacoma doublecab is the perfect offroad vehicle. Not too big, no too small, and has a bed to carry lots of stuff.

I laugh every time I see a jeep with receiver baskets on each end, LOL!

 

Well, this tread did cost me nearly a small fortune. I ultimately ended up buying just about everything mentioned. At this point, feel like I could go virtually anywhere and not worry too much about getting permanently stuck. Surprisingly, the gas mileage hasn't went down noticeably, dispite the extra weight. Of course, I did try to keep weight down wherever reasonably possible. Once again, thanks to all for the wise advice, guidence, and suggestions.

 

what were some of the key items that you purchased..

 

Described most items back in message #113. Ultimately replaced the Bearcat 880 cb radio with a Cobra 75WXST. The former was too large, well more than an inch larger front-to-back and side-to side than the currently advertised specs. Did return the hi-lift jack and accessories. Finally, added a 12v air compressor (Q Industries MF1050 - a variation of the M50 with slightly higher psi), a quality first aid/first responder kit, and a decent fire extinguisher.

 

Sounds like you got it pretty well covered

 

I haven't purchased a hi lift but based on the above experience, it is definitely on my list. For lifting not for winching, that just seems tedious and scary. Make sure that shovel is full sized. Nothing more useless than dinkey shovel and a 5500 pound truck.

 

LOL!!!!!!

 

Bears! Bears are sneaky, use caution!

Never attach a clevis to the bears only to the truck and be sure to use a static strap not a dynamic snatch strap as you could have bears flying through the windshield if some of them decide to let go!

Remove all honey from the vehicle prior to blowing the whistle!

Casually walk up to your buddy and secretly smear honey all over the back of his shirt while pretending to pat him on the back as an additional safety precaution (for you).

 

1. Roll up sleeves
2. Put muscles in Lo gear
3. Lift rear end first
4. Slowly lift up to center point.
5. Walk away

Works everytime

 

have question for you guys???




was this the right way to pull out a guy with a broken tie rod??? His passanger wheel was full locked to the left.

 

Strictly speaking from a rigging standpoint, the way the strap is connected to the recovery points on the broken truck is poor practice. I say this because by going accross both shackles and choking the strap back to itself that way you create two potentially bad situations and can damgage your gear.

One problem is that a huge amount of the line tension translates into a force pulling those two recovery points towards each other side loading the shackles and the recovery points on the bumper. Neither of them are rated for a load in that direction and can be damaged especially if you were to "snatch" with them attached that way.

The other potential issue is that the strap is choked thru the eye rather than with a shackle. This causes a ton of friction between the eye and the webbing of the strap. This can damage or even melt and break the strap under heavy or repeated load. By attaching the choke with the eye on the pin of a shackle and the webbing running thru the bowl of the shackle you avoid this issue.

Ideally you would want to use just one of the recovery points for the pull. Or if you ned to pull from both points to share the load, which I imagine is the reason for running thru both shackles in this case, you would want to run a strap from both pts and attach to your main line with a shackle.

Hope that makes some sense. If not, oh well I tried. Again this is looking at it from the rigging side, not really recovery specific, but the principals and physics apply to recovery as much as in rigging for lifting or anything else.