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Safe PSI to air down to?

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Old 05-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #21
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i have reseated tires like that several times
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:19 PM   #22
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So, just to clarify for my own safety's sake. Valve Core in, or out?
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:21 PM   #23
wo ai ni bao bei ^_^
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12 psi here!
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Old 05-02-2012, 02:47 PM   #24
...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madjik_Man View Post
Totally understood and duly noted.

Just use any flammable aerosol?
I've always seen starter fluid used but I think most flammable aerosols would do the trick. Others, chime in if I'm wrong.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:04 PM   #25
RTO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winL View Post
So, just to clarify for my own safety's sake. Valve Core in, or out?
I've done it many times. Always left the core in. When I checked the pressure after the bead seated it was always very low. Not sure how the tire would blow up Once the bead seats the fire in the tire will go out.

I've always used carb and choke cleaner and on a car/truck tire, a 3-4 second spray is enough.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I'm glad I started this thread, I learned a lot (the norm at TW)
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdowell View Post
Carry some either and matches if it does come off.
This works wonders. Years ago I ordered rear tires for my quad out of a magazine. They banded the things together for shipping. The beads were bent all to hell and NOBODY, tire shops or anyone I tried could get them to seat. So me and my friend discussed trying it. We were skeered. His father which had done it several times on his low boy tires did it for us on the first one and it worked on the 1st try. So we did the 2nd one all though it took a couple of tries for us. Point of the story was that I didn't believe it would work and that I would have to ship them back.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:28 PM   #29
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No bead locks I go like this: 14-18 on grippy earth(dirt/rocks). 12 in deep snow.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:32 PM   #30
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Is seen especk wheel at slow speeds ( rock crawling ) at 7-8 psi recently . He's running a 16" 33" I believe .
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:02 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FailRated View Post
I've done it many times. Always left the core in. When I checked the pressure after the bead seated it was always very low. Not sure how the tire would blow up Once the bead seats the fire in the tire will go out.

I've always used carb and choke cleaner and on a car/truck tire, a 3-4 second spray is enough.
Sweet. Even gave me a tip on how long to not over spray it. Thanks man.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:15 PM   #32
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I carry a can of ether for just that reason. I've also used acetylene on a tractor tire.

I'll pull the core. Not worried about blowing up the tire but blowing out the damn valve stem. You only need a quick burst of ether.

Doesn't take much seriously.

If you do have a compressor, a ratchet strap around the center of the tire can help seat the bead.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:43 PM   #33
RTO
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I just picked up some parts from my buddy who is a Master tech at a toyota dealership. We were discussing this topic and he told me when he mounted 98regstick's 285's the tires beads were so close together from storage/shipping he could not get the beads to seat. So he pulled out the ether. Had to use this method on all 4 tires. Two worked fine, the other two had something strange happen. He said the bead seated with the ether, then moments later the tire would collapse and the bead would unseat. All we could come up with was that the fire in the tire consumed enough oxygen to create a vacuum and collapse the tire. So he just hooked up a compressor to the tire while doing the ether trick and problem solved. Weird.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:48 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FailRated View Post
I just picked up some parts from my buddy who is a Master tech at a toyota dealership. We were discussing this topic and he told me when he mounted 98regstick's 285's the tires beads were so close together from storage/shipping he could not get the beads to seat. So he pulled out the ether. Had to use this method on all 4 tires. Two worked fine, the other two had something strange happen. He said the bead seated with the ether, then moments later the tire would collapse and the bead would unseat. All we could come up with was that the fire in the tire consumed enough oxygen to create a vacuum and collapse the tire. So he just hooked up a compressor to the tire while doing the ether trick and problem solved. Weird.
I've heard of this happening with the core in. Another reason to pull it out.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:48 PM   #35
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So I guess I need to ask now...

where do you buy ether? Home Depot? And I'm assuming it comes in a spray can?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:52 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madjik_Man View Post
So I guess I need to ask now...

where do you buy ether? Home Depot? And I'm assuming it comes in a spray can?

Starting fluid, never looked for it at homedepot i'd go to any auto store, or even walmart, yes in a can. Carb cleaner works well too
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:55 PM   #37
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This all reminds me...

Quote:
Been doing this myself for a long time, but the rain got my motivated to goof-off in the garage today. I had to mount my spare still so I figured I'd take pictures. Maybe this would be a good sticky or something. I think this is about as important as knowing how to change a u-joint. Once you do a couple of these, a trail repair of a sidewall or a de-bead is really a cakewalk. I did this tire while taking pictures and eating chips in about 15 minutes.

These tools can all be substituted. Before I knew Harbor Freight sold these tire spoons for $6 a piece (sweet deal), I used 12" crescent wrenches, breaker bars, ratchets, flat stock, etc...

Bust the beads with a hi-lift. This shouldn't require much force. As I say with any step in this process, "If you're using a lot of force you're doing something wrong. Try a different approach."

If it's not popping off without a lot of force, release the jack and start in a new spot. Crusty rims may require you to walk the jack all the way around the bead. Now you have both beads broken.

There are two different beads on a rim. I call them the "easy side" and the "other side that doesn't matter". The non-mounting-surface-side is the one you want to work with. More on this later...Use your foot to push the sidewall in to the narrower part in the center of the rim.

Grab the bead directly across from where you're standing on the sidewall.

Hold what you've just accomplished from slipping back behind the rim and grab more bead with another tool.

You're going to keep walking the bead off the rim. This is another area where if you're trying hard, you're doing it wrong. You may have to grab less with each movement. A lubricant such as dishsoap can help here. Sometimes you have to get the first spoon out of there (the one I'm standing on) to give yourself some slack to work with.
Thanks to Terry. Re-upped the pictures.
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Got rid of the first spoon to give myself more sidewall to work with.

Walk the rest of the bead off

Now you can see why we started on the side we did. The rim gets narrower close to the bead on the "easy side". We work with that side only because it gives us more sidewall to work with (not going to get technical with geometry of circles here). The side still in the tire is the side we just walked the bead off of.

Sometimes you can work the rim out similar to the way we did the first bead. Sometimes a hammer can be used to walk the spoon around.

This rim was nasty as someone had used fix-a-flat at some point and it was just an old, crusty rim I found for my spare tire. In this case, you can use your handy-dandy hi-lift. Use your brain here. You can destroy your tire or probably hit yourself in the face or something. Again, work harder not smarter (or was it the other way around?) Soap can be a big help here again.
2 of ?
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:03 PM   #39
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Quote:
Now you've got the rim out.

This is a good time to patch torn sidewalls, mess with your valve stem (can usually be done with just one bead broken), or if you've de-beaded your tire on the trail, you should just start here.
You can buy these vulcanizing patches at NAPA along with cement and/or vulcanizing compound. You should really carry these in your tire patch kit.

Now we're going to install a new rim. Again, there is an "easy side" that you want to be working with.

FWIW I carry ether, valve stems, cores, a tool, tire spoons, patches, plugs, stitcher, reamer, and wire to stitch the carcass if need be in my kit.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelo760 View Post
Is seen especk wheel at slow speeds ( rock crawling ) at 7-8 psi recently . He's running a 16" 33" I believe .
Hey that's me! . haha but ya I got ballsy enough to go down to 8 PSI and it performed amazingly well and I had no problems by going this low. I will continue to go to 8 PSI on very technical trails in the future. Wheel is 16"x8" and tires are 33"x12.5" (no beadlock).

(and for those of you following my build thread, my most recent flat while offroading was due to dirt/debri/small rocks getting pushed up into the valve stem and causing it to release air even though I had the plastic valve cap on)
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