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Old 03-18-2013, 08:07 PM   #21
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Whats the difference between 20 - 5 and 40 - 15?

I normally run about 35-40 PSI and wheel with 15 psi
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:26 PM   #22
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I use Stauns. Took the time to set them up. Seem to work as intended. By the time the 4th one is threaded on it is about time to pull the first one. Now I just need some OBA so I don't have to worry about getting to a gas station after a run.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #23
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I use one of these...


:edit:
oh you mean your own tires! i'd go with the ARB type
I have one on order.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:16 PM   #24
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I use Staun's as well.

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Old 03-23-2013, 02:44 PM   #26
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I use the trailhead deflators and love them. Take the caps off, screw the deflators on, walk away and do something else while the tires are deflating, come back, take them off and put the caps back on, then you are ready to wheel. They automatically stop at the pressure you set them to and they are pretty accurate.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCSPerformance View Post
Thank you for all the info guys. I decided to go with the ARB kit. I like the fact that there's an accurate pressure gauge to go off of.

The real $taun brand deflator seem to work well from what I've researched and I like that you can basically screw all 4 in then sit back and wait. Even though it only needs to be set one time, I know I would still check it with a tire pressure gauge just to be sure.

The cheaper copycat staun type deflator all seem to have an issue with leaking even though it's set. This makes it unreliable and time consuming imo.
did you cross-reference the accuracy of that arb gauge? i got one but returned it the next day (thanks, amazon prime!) as it was off by 10psi: i had my tires aired to 45psi at a garage few days earlier, yet the arb deflator gauge was showing 55psi. even the gauge on the arb inflator was more accurate (at 47psi).
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:52 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by evilbit View Post
did you cross-reference the accuracy of that arb gauge? i got one but returned it the next day (thanks, amazon prime!) as it was off by 10psi: i had my tires aired to 45psi at a garage few days earlier, yet the arb deflator gauge was showing 55psi. even the gauge on the arb inflator was more accurate (at 47psi).
The ARB deflators are fast but I've heard the guages aren't very accurate on them. Would be cheaper to just get a valve core remover and a good guage. ARB's inflator gauges are really accurate though. I love mine!

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Old 04-22-2013, 12:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilbit View Post
did you cross-reference the accuracy of that arb gauge? i got one but returned it the next day (thanks, amazon prime!) as it was off by 10psi: i had my tires aired to 45psi at a garage few days earlier, yet the arb deflator gauge was showing 55psi. even the gauge on the arb inflator was more accurate (at 47psi).
I haven't even had a chance to play around with it yet. It's still sitting in the box. Now you got me worried. 10psi is pretty bad.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:47 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCSPerformance View Post
I haven't even had a chance to play around with it yet. It's still sitting in the box. Now you got me worried. 10psi is pretty bad.
sorry, didn't mean to be the bad news panda here. maybe i got a lemon, go compare yours to one in your local garage.

i just ordered a milton s921, which is supposedly professional grade precision and made in usa.
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by JLee View Post
Thats not a per tire thats for all 4 your not going to get much faster the 4 min. even with the arb you have to do one at a time so it takes about the same time as my 6.00 dollar ones thats air down all 4 at once. I wheel with guys that have the arb and it wasn't faster.
Are talking about the same ones I borrowed at Holister? Those sucked!

Vin, honestly, you want fast. Screw the deflaters. Just get a valve core removal tool and keep it (and a few spare cores) in your center console. By far the fastest way to air down.
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Old 04-22-2013, 03:59 PM   #32
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Good thread. This is something I probably need to get and it's one of the reasons I always cheat and don't air down. I usually pay for it though, with a break-neck ride in the rocks.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:04 PM   #33
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Man, I've used all of these. The ARB's okay until you're in the snow or mud. The o-rings on your valves only have so much life in them and ice, cold, mud and especially rust'll do'em in quickly. Plus, there you'll be kneeling at each tire at the trailhead while your buddies with the Stauns are drinking coffee and shootin' the shit. The Oasis are a pain to set up and they have a tendency to lose their setup after a bit. The Stauns are my favorites. They're fast no brainers. Screw them on and wait until they shut up. Version IIs are supposed to be screw them on and drive off. I'd never do that as there's too much that can go wrong way far from where Toyota Care will come to get you. You are also supposed to be able to set them up for multiple PSI. Stauns hands down.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:11 PM   #34
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I ordered a pair of these recently. Takes a little bit of work to set them but not too bad. Used them basically for the first time on Sunday and 3 of them dropped down to 20psi like I set them but the 4th one was at 16psi when I stopped it so I'll have to set that one up again. They don't air down as fast as removing the valve core, but just as fast as pressing in and holding down the valve, only faster since all 4 go at once instead of just 1 at a time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyT88 View Post
I ordered a pair of these recently. Takes a little bit of work to set them but not too bad. Used them basically for the first time on Sunday and 3 of them dropped down to 20psi like I set them but the 4th one was at 16psi when I stopped it so I'll have to set that one up again. They don't air down as fast as removing the valve core, but just as fast as pressing in and holding down the valve, only faster since all 4 go at once instead of just 1 at a time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're a lot like the Stauns. Sometimes those'll jam up. If they do, just press that button on the top and they should start right up for you. It's also easy to twist that ring and change the setting.

If you're really into off roading and air down quite a bit then these are a worthy investment of $13 or so. They help you keep track of your valve caps and will seal the stem off should something go wrong with your valve core. Never run without the caps, especially in the mud.
http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/ind...t_detail&p=200
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:50 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Seer View Post
They're a lot like the Stauns. Sometimes those'll jam up. If they do, just press that button on the top and they should start right up for you. It's also easy to twist that ring and change the setting.

If you're really into off roading and air down quite a bit then these are a worthy investment of $13 or so. They help you keep track of your valve caps and will seal the stem off should something go wrong with your valve core. Never run without the caps, especially in the mud.
http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/ind...t_detail&p=200
I was just checking these out and make sure you guys get the plastic ones. I'm not a fan of using metal valve caps as they tend to get stuck... They said that the metal ones only work on brass valve stems and most TMPS systems use aluminum (I'm not sure what the Toyota TMPS valve stems are, I don't have TMPS). So if you decide to get these, be sure to select the plastic ones. I love how they have the retaining strap on them so you don't have to worry about losing your valve cap!
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:55 PM   #37
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I will never get plastic valve caps ever again. I was in some really rough terrain and ended up rubbing the shit out of my wheels to include my valve stems. Well they had plastic caps on at the time and the plastic wore off. The valves were torn to shreds. SO yea go ahead and get plastic caps for your street queen but if you are getting into some rough stuff I would go with metal ones.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:01 PM   #38
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This is the first I've seen the plastic ones. Spraying a touch of WD40 on the threads should take care of any sticking although I've never had any issues with that in the five-six years I've been using the brass ones.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:04 PM   #39
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I will never get plastic valve caps ever again. I was in some really rough terrain and ended up rubbing the shit out of my wheels to include my valve stems. Well they had plastic caps on at the time and the plastic wore off. The valves were torn to shreds. SO yea go ahead and get plastic caps for your street queen but if you are getting into some rough stuff I would go with metal ones.
But then you can't get them off after a while. Although I guess if wheel and air down often enough you will be ok. I went out with a guy a few weeks ago who had just got this new '85 4runner that had metal caps. Well needless to say 5 minutes later with 2 pairs of pliers we basically destroyed his valve stems and still never got the damn caps off! On the newer rigs with those TMPS systems, they are too expensive to destroy that way.

Also that is some pretty gnarly shit to tag your valve stem! My rims are beat to shit and my side walls look like somebody had fun with a knife and I still haven't touched my valve stems, or at least not enough to damage them. Although are the TMPS ones stiff? Mine are the basic cheap rubber ones that are really flexible.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:40 AM   #40
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I use Staun's as well.


+1 I like my Stauns. I put them on, lock my hubs then take them off in the same order. I usually don't have to wait to get down to my pressure (~15psi).
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