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First time off roading in Colorado - New 2014 DC TRD 4x4 - Newb Questions

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Old 08-06-2014, 09:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PS78 View Post
X3 i read the straddle the rocks quote and was like WHOAAAA!!!! please no straddle rocks, thats a sure fire way to make your drive line look like a candy cane and or damage the vital parts under your truck, put a tire on the larger rocks if at all possible, and if you can afford it the first mod you do should be rock sliders to save your rocker panels.

front mud flaps: REMOVED
Rear mud flaps: Trimmed down like 6 inches

Under carriage protection: if you can afford it and want to not worry so much get as much armor as you can handle under there!!
Lift: plenty of 3" kits available check out toytec for plenty of options
I know these are technically side steps... would they double as rock sliders though?

http://www.carid.com/2005-toyota-tac...Fahj7AodAA4A4Q
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:07 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by David K View Post
You have some good advice here. Glad you discovered the A-TRAC makes the truck a super truck!

Place your tires on the high parts of the road so things don't hit the bottom (as much). Also crawl over the rocks, slowly... the 4WD and A-TRAC allows you to not need momentum like the Prerunners do, and it is speed that can cause damage.

Mud Flaps... say good by! They will snap off coming down on a rock or dropping into a ditch. Even heavy mud on them will rip them off the truck. I kept them on and replaced them on my 2005... a headache. I removed them from my 2010 soon after getting it (actually the first time one snapped off was when I was playing with the A-TRAC on the Welk Run). It's been 4 1/2 years and I see no special paint wear or gravel damage to the sides of my truck that you would think the mud flaps prevent.

Have fun!!!
A-trac is incredible... it really does put the truck on a whole different level in terms of climbing performance, cant speak more highly of it.

Glad to know I*can take the mud flaps off then... thank you sir
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDre View Post
I know these are technically side steps... would they double as rock sliders though?

http://www.carid.com/2005-toyota-tac...Fahj7AodAA4A4Q
Nerf bars aren't sliders. Nerfs are generally made of a thinner metal and are more meant as steps rather than protection. Plus the purpose of sliders is to "slide" across the rocks, which is not easily done with the steps.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:33 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDre View Post
A-trac is incredible... it really does put the truck on a whole different level in terms of climbing performance, cant speak more highly of it.

Glad to know I*can take the mud flaps off then... thank you sir
The first gen flaps were rubber, the moved, and were great. The second gen flaps are stiff plastic and break off when they bump the ground, fail!
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice Horse View Post
Nerf bars aren't sliders. Nerfs are generally made of a thinner metal and are more meant as steps rather than protection. Plus the purpose of sliders is to "slide" across the rocks, which is not easily done with the steps.
THIS^^^

id save up just a little more coin and get weld on or bolt on designed rock sliders instead, much more stout if you plan on wheeling even a little bit they will save you the money 10 fold if you bang up your nerf bars into the rocker panel. the nerf bar step will bend and protect you a little bit but if you come down on them hard they will almost cause more damage than if you didnt have em on.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:05 AM   #26
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Go with a 3 inch lift. Scraping is ok. Dents are not. If you are going to really wheel aftermarket skids and sliders are a must. Here is the bottom of my 2014

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Old 08-08-2014, 06:40 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PS78 View Post
THIS^^^

id save up just a little more coin and get weld on or bolt on designed rock sliders instead, much more stout if you plan on wheeling even a little bit they will save you the money 10 fold if you bang up your nerf bars into the rocker panel. the nerf bar step will bend and protect you a little bit but if you come down on them hard they will almost cause more damage than if you didnt have em on.
Didn't occur to me they could actually do more damage... I'll have to do some research on good nerf bars.
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Old 08-08-2014, 06:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mademan925 View Post
Go with a 3 inch lift. Scraping is ok. Dents are not. If you are going to really wheel aftermarket skids and sliders are a must. Here is the bottom of my 2014

Pretty rad setup you have there sir
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDre View Post
Didn't occur to me they could actually do more damage... I'll have to do some research on good nerf bars.
All nerf bars do that. You'll need sliders if you want offroad protection lol. The thinner metal on the nerf bars doesn't stand up to hard impacts. It may be ok if you come down slow on something but that's not always the case. They'll bend up and whack your quarter panels.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:09 AM   #30
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I'll second the anti Procomp lift post, steer clear of it if you plan to do a lot of off-roading. My Procomp rides rough. Save for a quality lift that does not involve blocks. If I could go back I would've saved for an Icon setup.

Don't let the 4WP talk into nerfs instead of sliders and get a good aftermarket skid plate.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:55 AM   #31
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I would get sliders, skid plates and a rear locker before you lift it. Wheeling it stock height like that will make you a much better driver and the truck can grow as your skill increases. Winchs are pretty nice as well, although you dont see the true value in them until you need it and dont have one.
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TACO CO View Post
I did a 3" lift and 255/85/16 tires. So far I love it for CO offroading! I imagine the thinner tires wont do as well in deep snow or sand, but the increased height without having to trim sold me on skinny.
I read all the time that the skinny tires do better in wintery conditions. I think the reason is that they cut through instead of float on top...or something like that. I don't get much snow experience in Texas .

Quote:
Originally Posted by WillT View Post
Mud Flaps: I kept mine to keep debris from hitting the doors but I shortened them with some tin snips. Just marked a line about 5" up from the bottom and snipped them across and then rounded the corners. Still provides about 5" of mudflap to keep snow/ice/debris off the doors. I also shortened up the back ones as well.

Lift: I've got the pro comp lift installed from 4WP and I don't know if it was installed wrong or what (shop has looked at it twice and says everything is fine) but I get a lot of popping noises almost like the springs aren't seated and move around when I stop hard/accelerate hard/go over bumps like speed bumps and curbs/etc. For the money, if I had it to do over I'd spend the extra $200 and go with an OME 3" and have the guys at Toytec install it.

Rock Protection: If you can do it, spend the $500-600 and get some rock sliders. You can get weld on ones or bolt on (many of the bolt ons still require drilling holes in the frame for some of the bolts). Cheap protection for when you slide off a rock, pick the wrong line, etc.
I was waiting for someone to suggest sliders. $5-600 is a bit pricey. I think I paid about $300 to get ones from Relentless.

http://www.relentlessfabrication.us/...87&id=25826702

Quote:
Originally Posted by PS78 View Post
Under carriage protection: if you can afford it and want to not worry so much get as much armor as you can handle under there!!
Lift: plenty of 3" kits available check out toytec for plenty of options
Agreed. I've been pleased with the fit of my AllPro skid plate. I want to get the transmission skid to go along with the IFS. Haven't really tested thoroughly. I got it when they did free shipping and a free hoodie. They do promotions through here from time to time.

I just went to pull the link for the IFS skid that I have and noticed that sliders are on sale for 15% off right now. "SLIDER15" is the coupon code. Here is a link to the AllPro trail armor:

https://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor

Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDre View Post
Didn't occur to me they could actually do more damage... I'll have to do some research on good nerf bars.
I hear too many people who say that nerf bars can actually cause more damage because they reduce ground clearance.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice Horse View Post
All nerf bars do that. You'll need sliders if you want offroad protection lol. The thinner metal on the nerf bars doesn't stand up to hard impacts. It may be ok if you come down slow on something but that's not always the case. They'll bend up and whack your rocker panels.
FTFY

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Old 08-21-2014, 08:40 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyTaco View Post
I was waiting for someone to suggest sliders. $5-600 is a bit pricey. I think I paid about $300 to get ones from Relentless.

http://www.relentlessfabrication.us/...87&id=25826702
I've got BAMF sliders and the group buy we did them under put them at just over $500 with shipping. Just checked out the Relentless link and for a DC Shortbed with shipping they clock in at $452 ($339 for the sliders themselves). If you go whole hog and get the DCSB sized, DOM outer tubes, and powdercoat you're looking at $544 for the sliders and $115 for shipping which is pretty comparable to the BAMF ones I got.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillT View Post
I've got BAMF sliders and the group buy we did them under put them at just over $500 with shipping. Just checked out the Relentless link and for a DC Shortbed with shipping they clock in at $452 ($339 for the sliders themselves). If you go whole hog and get the DCSB sized, DOM outer tubes, and powdercoat you're looking at $544 for the sliders and $115 for shipping which is pretty comparable to the BAMF ones I got.
Fair enough. I think I was out like $360 after shipping, but I went HREW. Sadly, I haven't had much opportunity to test them out.
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