Ask a Plumber.

Are ya sure the pipes under slab are clay? If so,I truly am sorry. I wouldn't have that crap in my yard.
Well,you could put a clawfoot tub on top of tile an. Let it drain into shower drain? Or put in a tub with it framed in and have it drain the same.
The truly best way to do the job is breaking cocncrete,if that's not the favored way,then ya have to get creative.

 

Yeah I think they are, it was built in the early 60's. If we were going to stay here I might cut in but we will be building soon. I have thought about taking the poured pan out and framing a tub platform in there. Pretty sure its clay because no one will scrape our pipes when we have problems.

 

must cut floor.....
not thast bad of job

 

Where are you at in texas?

 

Doing a slab cut and moving the drain is the only proper way to do it. U gotta remember that a tub has a waste and overflow, not just a simple floor drain like a shower. I don't know about the plumbing in Texas but in AZ if it was built in the 60's you've got cast iron under the slab, possibly transitioning to clay outside the footprint. I'd be really surprised to ever see clay under a slab unless it was under an addition. Just my 2¢ hope it helps in some way.

 

San Antonio

 

I know I have cast iron in the walls just didn't know under the slab because I've been told I have clay going to the house. I really want to get a new bathroom for my wife before she delivers in July and I can do it all except for the drain moving. Why can't we have any TW members close, lol!

 

Then ya have cast under house, clay in yard. Post pics. Where in Texas are you?

 

Nah too ugly right now! I'm in Texarkana. Where's the DIY network's Bath Crashers when you need them?

 

Well then,you're going to have to bite the bullit and get someone to do the drain. It'll speed things up. And when in wall check thevalve if its a true shower valve or tub and sh valve with tub spout plugged.

 

Check your local paper for a one truck plumbing company. It'll save ya money. Or grab the phone book,and be ready to grab ya ankles

 

Give me some price estimates I should be looking for to remove the poured pan and cut the slab to relocate the drain. I can do the rest.

 

If the trap is right at drain opening ,you can just reroute riser over for tub,if trap is deep enough.2-1 1/2" 90s and some pipe. Should only take a few hours to move drain.

 

Do you do boilers ? I am going to switch from oil to gas to save $$. I do have questions if you have answers. Thanks for any help. Curious George

 

I have a plumbing question if this thread is still existent.

 

14

That's the best answer I could come up with with the information that was given.

 

Haha well I don't see how that's the answer, but ill share my situation in a minute. Photos are being sent to live


Edit:

Ok I can't post the pics on here with my phone, so here's the link to the first picture on Tw live. The next post down should be my second picture and the situation I'm hoping to resolve.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/38939-tw-live-12486.html#post7142529

 

Wow. That's quite the conglomeration of fittings you have there.

Most of that is not legal under any code I'm familiar with.

The black pipe you want to drain into is too high to serve as a drain, but then again so is the pipe it's presently draining into.

Basically, your building drain is too high to allow anything in the basement to be gravity drained into it. A legal installation would consist of an ejector pit with it's discharge pumped up into the building drain.

That being said, if you want to drain your washer into the black pipe you should know that....

A. The pipe is too small (it needs to be 2")
B. The pipe is too high (your washer has to pump the water all the way up there and you'll likely have soaking wet loads of laundry as if the spin cycle never happened)
C. A washing machine should really have about a 24" stand pipe above its p-trap because of the suds. This would make your discharge point even higher.

In a nutshell, what I'm trying to say is that you've got quite the plumbing abortion going on here and a licensed plumber would have to reconfigure everything and charge you a lot of money to fix it.
If it's working as it is now, you are not going to improve the situation by doing what you want to.

I'm sure this isn't the kind of thing you wanted to hear, but it's the truth.

 

oh its cool.. aparently according to all the local plumbers it costs $4000 to replace a water heater, so Im aware all plumbers hate working


my washer can pump to a maximum height of 96". I will be installing a pedestal under the washer, raising it an additional 14", making the point I'll be pumping too roughly around 5' above the bottom of the washer.


thanks for the help though... or whatever you want to call it...

 

truth....
standpipe code here is min 18"

and he said the black drain is 2"