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Old 01-06-2012, 10:41 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MotoXdoer View Post
I WORK WITH 480V 3 PHASE AND 240V 3 PHASE EVERYDAY. BEEN SHOCKED BY 110 PRETTY GOOD BUT NOT ANYTHING HIGHER.
I'm with ya. Lets hope it stays that way for everyone on here. even though 120 can be fatal, it also builds character. (and respect)
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:52 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by alberta_taco View Post
OZ what year is the house? Typically it can be from harmonics cause by the compressor.

Do the plugs in your house use the quick connect (quick burn out) method or did the contractor use the side screws? The ground noise can be caused by a bad neutral connection or a bad bonding. You can put a suppression device on your AV equipment and that can clean up the power feeding it. My bar fridge seems to screw with my onkyo amp once in awhile - but never through the audio just video.
I just built the house , side screws used I believe .

I have a power conditioner at my home theatre set up , no improvement , we tried everything but getting a new fridge
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:05 AM   #23
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I am thinking about becoming an electrician. How is the pay and work if you don't mind me asking. Should I stay away or pursue this as a career. I have always been good with wiring and such. Thanks
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Old 01-07-2012, 05:40 AM   #24
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how would I wire a 3-way switch with a power source in the middle that also powers the back of the house using 14/2 wiring. basically 4 14/2 coming out of light source. I started out with wiring the power to the back and adding a wire to make it only working with 3 cords.

It's an old house and whoever had wired it before did some tricky stuff. We think he tried to use the grounding as the traveler but can't get it to work.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:21 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma429ad View Post
how would I wire a 3-way switch with a power source in the middle that also powers the back of the house using 14/2 wiring. basically 4 14/2 coming out of light source. I started out with wiring the power to the back and adding a wire to make it only working with 3 cords.

It's an old house and whoever had wired it before did some tricky stuff. We think he tried to use the grounding as the traveler but can't get it to work.
http://www.electrical-online.com/3-w...m-variation-4/ thats how a three way switch works. you never want to use the ground for anything other than a ground.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:22 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoXdoer View Post
I WORK WITH 480V 3 PHASE AND 240V 3 PHASE EVERYDAY. BEEN SHOCKED BY 110 PRETTY GOOD BUT NOT ANYTHING HIGHER.
Ive been locked up withh 277v on a ladder. never want that to happen again! my arm was numb for the whole day.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:25 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4jeep View Post
I am thinking about becoming an electrician. How is the pay and work if you don't mind me asking. Should I stay away or pursue this as a career. I have always been good with wiring and such. Thanks
I love being an electrician. The money is in commercial and industrial work. When you first start you wont make much money but it gets better.
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:25 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma429ad View Post
how would I wire a 3-way switch with a power source in the middle that also powers the back of the house using 14/2 wiring. basically 4 14/2 coming out of light source. I started out with wiring the power to the back and adding a wire to make it only working with 3 cords.

It's an old house and whoever had wired it before did some tricky stuff. We think he tried to use the grounding as the traveler but can't get it to work.
You have to have three wires between the switches, but you can then run a single pair from either switch box to the light itself.

It's common practice to make the white "neutral" wire in a romex pair hot, but then you mark the wire black with paint or marker. But I've see. The "marking" done by wrapping black electrical tape around the end.
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Old 01-08-2012, 11:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4jeep View Post
I am thinking about becoming an electrician. How is the pay and work if you don't mind me asking. Should I stay away or pursue this as a career. I have always been good with wiring and such. Thanks
Before starting my "job" as an electrician, the only experience i had that was even close was an electronics class in high school, it's very easy to catch on especially if you are mechanically inclined or spent some time with dad in the garage growing up. I can honestly say I LOVE what I do. I've been doing it for around 6 years though I'm only in my 4th (and final) year of schooling to get my journeyman card. I have NEVER been shocked, not even by 120 volts so I'm either very lucky or very good haha. I've blown up a pair of dykes and had a ground wire touch B-phase while making up a 120/208 3-phase panel, but have never been injured via electricity.
As a 4th year apprentice I'm making $23/Hr, will get a raise at the end of this semester, and then once i have my journeyman, I'll top out around $26/hr
I work on voltages ranging from 12v DC to 46,000v AC, fire alarm up to "real" Medium Voltage

Things you have to consider are: Are you afraid of heights? Can you follow directions? Are you creative? Are you motivated? Are you willing to go through schooling?

In my opinion if you just need a job, electrical isn't for you. If you are looking for a career, it's a great one. There are union and non-union companies, each has their advantages i suppose but I am non-union.
Here and maybe everywhere, schooling for the union is 5 years, whereas non-union is 4 years (2 years if you only want to do Residential, which i would NOT recommend...)

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:54 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjmoose View Post
You have to have three wires between the switches, but you can then run a single pair from either switch box to the light itself.

It's common practice to make the white "neutral" wire in a romex pair hot, but then you mark the wire black with paint or marker. But I've see. The "marking" done by wrapping black electrical tape around the end.
No markings were on it, but did find out that it is powered from the switch, just on the oppoiste side, then feeds across to the first switch, then back up to the light. apparently there were some special people in the house before.
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:44 PM   #31
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Anymore thoughts on how to get rid of my ground loop
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Old 01-09-2012, 03:33 PM   #32
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta_taco View Post
Buy a better fridge? Or amp?

Ok but actually I would look for an area where you ran the signal wire in the wall with power? Did you run shielded wire for the sub? Are the wires pulled through the same holes in the stud?
$1500 fridge
$1000 Sony ES series amp
$400 Klipsch sub
Dedicated power conditioner on the components
Dedicated power circuit for the sub
Shielded coax in its own conduit from the components to the sub
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:11 PM   #33
TRUCK YEAH
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Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Anymore thoughts on how to get rid of my ground loop
*any more

I'll give my audio magician buddy a call tomorrow, guy knows everything aboot home theater systems.
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:11 PM   #34
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Originally Posted by TacoRider11 View Post
*any more
Well Einstein , any thoughts ?
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:23 PM   #35
TRUCK YEAH
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Originally Posted by OZ-T View Post
Well Einstein , any thoughts ?
does your sub have a ground screw on the back of it? if yes it should be marked with something like this\/\/\/
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:34 PM   #36
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I'm gonna use my 500th post and give my $0.02, electrical codes are very similar (if not the same) in the US, but some are different & I would consult an NEC book before installing or messing with your electrical components of your house. I'm a licensed electrician in Texas and have been shocked by 120 and 277 (ouch) but mainly work with industrial installations, (480, 2300, 4160, 13.8) line work, and instrumentation.
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:02 PM   #37
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe ....
OZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shedOZ-T is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoRider11 View Post
does your sub have a ground screw on the back of it? if yes it should be marked with something like this\/\/\/
No
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:47 PM   #38
TRUCK YEAH
Saskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shedSaskquatch11 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
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these should help with troubleshooting.

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com...woofer-hum.htm

http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...es/180767.html
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:11 AM   #40
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I have a question that I had started a thread about until nmcqueen280 pointed out this thread to me:

Heres my question:

I need some help with wiring lights for the outside of my truck - I am going to put LED's on the outside (and maybe a couple inside).

Here's what I want the lights to do:

remote unlock truck: lights on
start truck: lights off
remote lock truck: lights off
toggle switch in cab: lights on/off
open door: lights on/off

But, I'd also like to turn off the lights if the door is open with the toggle switch... complicated enough??



I'll be using LED lights from Oznium because I like the products so far (see my build thread in signature)

I understand how to connect wires, how to wire single switch to multiple lights, etc.

I don't understand wiring jargon or symbols on diagrams - please use simple terms for labeling and explanations - thanks.


I'm not afraid of doing the work, I look forward to the education - please help me with this question!!!

Here's the link to my thread asking this question:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...lp-please.html
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