Zuk on 38's

Not much interest any more. Guess I scared everyone off.

I will try some update to see if that helps.


Changed direction on the DS Radiator support bracket.

The size of the bracket was bugging me. This led me to a redesign of the bracket. Decided to cut an 1” off the length to make it resemble the stock bracket. There needed to be 2 relief holes cut in for the FJ box bolts. It was then capped off at the top for a cleaner look.

Always try and stay flexible with your designs. There is nothing wrong with making something better. Even though you have to remake something.

Reminder of 1st Bracket







Here is the revised version

 

Sorry I read this build as you update, but no questions as I enjoy just reading about what has been done and seeing the progress. And since I don't fab I probably wouldn't have any question worth asking. lol

 

wow dude, you have a gift.i would love to be a machinist but i can read blue prints or any of the computer stuff. looks sweet though. im super jealous, especially i just sold an 88.

 

yea same here my limited knowledge ended at the modded 1.3L and gear ratios lol advanced suspension systems like this are over my head!

 

Here are some much needed updates with pics

PS Box rail and Bracket updates

 

Just wanted to give an update sorry no pics this time.

Decided that the motor and trans really needed to be in before the final front steering components were burned in. This will add the appropriate weight on the Rig to get a proper steering and Panhard Bar rod dimension.

Had one more obstacle to get through which was installing the motor and trams as 1 unit from the bottom. This meant that there needed to be a removable trans mount.

Decided to use the Rock 4x mount this moves the mount forward, eliminates the front DS interference and is removable.

After talking to Scott from Rock 4x the frame rail mounting points can be welded in with some plating to the outside rail and then bolt the mount in. This will eliminate the long mounting pinch clamps which I prefer.

 

Finally decided on the next plan of attack.

Well, decided to try and put an empty block in for a trail install run. This was also done to mock up some brackets for AC and TG Toy power steering pump. The FJ80 box is close to where these components are going to live and wanted to make sure I had a real time look and see. Finally found a stock AC compressor with the manifold adaptors on it to use.

Getting the crane hoist in place and the engine block on the floor to see if a bottom side install could be done. Physics set in and there wasn’t enough ram length to get this done. The block was installed from the top with out problems even with the extreme height.

The trany will go in first. Don’t want to have to struggle with fitting it from underneath which is more of a PITA.

I’m also working on a removable trans mount. Ordered the Rock 4x mount to see how it looks. If used will probably modify it to eliminate pinch frame clamps and weld in a couple of angle pieces to the frame, this will make it a solid bolt in mount. May also add ¼ webbing around the outer sides of the mount this will add strengthen to the bent mount.

Here are a couple of pics of the block in for component clearances and bracket mock up. Engine bay hasn’t seen a block for about 2 years not really much of a big deal until you see the obstacles to over come to get it there.

 

Update

The Rock 4x mount was purchased so I didn’t have to make all the parts from scratch. Wanted to say there was nothing wrong with what they offer just had something else in mind.

With the mods made it is much stronger and has an angle mount that is welded to the inside of the frame rail after fish plates were added. The mount now rides on top of the angle mount and is bolted in place and can be removed.








The PS and AC were also being worked on. The FJ80 box, PS pump and the AC compressor seemed to be fighting for the same space. The pump was mounted lower to give more room for the AC compressor. This also seemed to work better so the fluid reservoir doesn’t have to be nearly has high either..

Finally came up with a bracket that seemed it was going to work for both the PS and AC. Now the decision to change over to serpentine pulleys was made. Got the pulleys and installed them. Now the bracket could be finished welded for the pump. Need to get a serpentine pulley AC compressor to finish the bracket.

 

Wasn’t happy with the way the bottom bracket mounting bolt was going to have to be installed and removal. Ended up reworking the brackets plates to make it more user friendly.

Bracket making is tedious work. The most important thing is to be sure that you can remove all the hardware without things getting in the way.

There is extra material left on the bracket because the AC compressor still needs to be added. Then there will be holes added to lighten the bracket and the excess material will then be removed.

Ordered the 1989 Geo Metro AC compressor. This uses the same Denso compressor only it has the serpentine pulley on it. The idler tension pulley that I plan to use is also from the same Geo Metro.

 

Got the AC compressor in on Friday, will be finishing the PS and AC bracket after the modified trans mount is completed.

Here is the modified Rock 4x mount installed. Liked the design of Scotts mount and let him know that I was going to make a weld in plate and do away with the pinch clamps.
Scott had mentioned that the mount was designed for those that didn’t weld just to make it a simple bolt on and the weld in bracket was cool with him.

Here is the weld in bracket option and was a bit time consuming to do.

 

Here is the finished PS/AC bracket. Still have to make some type of belt tensioner.

Got to say this one really had me scratching my head a few times. Just because you made the bracket doesn’t mean you are going to be able to use the bracket.

There were a lot of obstacles to overcome while making this bracket:

Rite off the bat the mounting bolt locations on the motor just happened to be dead middle of the rear support bracket.

The top mounting bolt for the pump was too long to remove because of the oil filter.

There wasn’t enough room to install the pump in the frame with the lower bracket ear on,

Welding a sandwich plate bracket will tend to move a bit making a tight fit if you are lucky.

Make the single bracket a simple design yet strong enough to hold both the PS/AC.

The top portion of the bracket needed to be left open to be able to pull tight on the PS/AC for a secure mounting.

Decided to use serpentine pulleys half way though making the brackets and lining up the pulleys was a bit of a challenge as well.

You can purchase a compressor but it does not come with the manifolds to connect the hoses to.

Probably forgot a few and finally got it done despite the obstacles.

 

Finished up the belt tensioner and bracket and installed a 4 ribbed belt.






Needed to make a custom return line elbow for the pump because the pump is located between the frame and motor.





Here are a few views of the finished PS/AC. To mount the pump in the bracket with the motor in the engine compartment. The front lower arm needed to be removed which does not compromise the strength of the bracket.

 

Motors In!!

 

Thats all thats done for now. Hope you enjoy

 

wow engine is looking good, a lot of time and work spent, it's a one of a kind project. Great work, keep it up.

 

oh my god!!!!

my father hans was a machinist unfortunately i never really knew him but, he made some neat stuff.

man this little samurai looks burly excellent work on this little truck. that little motor sounds like it sings! all i can really say is holy shit lol

 

Thanks to all the new guys for stopping in. Appreciate the comments. Yes, it is a bit bling bling just how I planned it.

Here are some pics loading the motor with the components. Everything that was modified or components that were added actually fit with no issues.

There was only one problem when the Stock Original radiator when drained. There was just too much residual rust to even thing about reusing it again. Did a good cleaning of all the hoses, block and metal tubes before the motor was installed. Ordered an Aluminum Radiator and will be here this week.

Drives Side Component pic. Laying out the additional reservoirs, AC condenser and hoses to make a clean engine compartment. This is going to be a tedious job with it being over 100 degrees in the shop now.

Went with the electric rad fan because it has an option for AC. There will be no need to try and sandwich a small fan between the front nose and condenser now.





PS/AC components in they’re living spots with no issues.





PS Pump Custom Return Elbow Fitting





Passenger Side components

 

Wanted to show a scaled pic of the height of the motor for Reference.

I’m 5’ 11” and this pic was taken flat footed on the ground.

Motor Height




Installed the new Aluminum Rad and Electric Rad Fan. Fabbed up a mounting bracket for the PS Reservoir and mounted the SS Rad Overflow Tank.


This pic was taken standing on a 5 gallon bucket. This is how the engine compartment pics have been taken.





The 15” PS Finned Cooler showed up today and the AC condenser should be here middle of next week. No need to fill the Rad with water just to start the motor and have to drain it in a couple of days. Need to finish up with the remaining components that still need to be fitted and installed.


Aluminum Radiator:
Got the link off the thread about the cheap aluminum radiators in the tech section. Purchased the Genesis Auto Parts rad. It arrived on time and undamaged. Bolted rite in no issues. Installed the Electric Rad Fan and that fit as well no issues. The weight of the new Rad and Electric fan was less then the stock Rad.

So far very pleased you will have to purchase a cap. I will give further review once I get all the components installed and the motor running.

 

The condenser Brackets are made. As usual they took much longer to do then 1st looking at it. Also used Ospho metal prep on them and a coat of POR50 to try and keep the rust down being they are in the front catching all the elements.

Changed my mind a couple of times because the Brackets need a couple of bends. Never seem to have enough tools when you need them, so I had to do some bending the hard way. After getting everything bent up and the Condenser spaced from the Rad. I probably could have used a piece of 2x3x1/8 box tubing and cut it down to fit eliminating the need to do any bends. That would have saved a bunch of time.

Here is the Condenser mounted to the Rad and Rad Support Brackets. This can be loaded as one unit from the engine compartment to be mounted.. This makes a much more user friendly to install. The mounting bolts holding the condenser in place are located in the engine compartment with welded in nuts there is no need for another wrench.

Condenser Bracket




Bracket Mounted







Front Side Mounting Bolts




Condenser Radiator Spacing




Need to get the newly installed motor started now this has been knocked off the list. Then there will need to be some time spent on getting the PS and AC plumbed up with some hose and solid lines..

 

Well it is definitely getting hot, gets over 100 degrees in the shop at noon time. I get over there around 7AM and out by 11 AM.

Just getting all the odds and ends made, hooked up and working properly. This tends to take a long time because there is so much stuff to try and put in a little engine compartment.

Got the motor running (Still need an exhaust before the final tuning is done)

Needed to make a carb throttle cable to connect to the corrected ratio linkage that was made for the bike carbs.

Carb throttle cable was made from the stock Zuk carb cable. It was shortened up quite a bit, got rid of the black plastic firewall cable holder. Replaced it with an aluminum screw in adapter. All fitted behind the Dizzy.

Got the clutch cable and clutch working. Used the Center Force clutch this time and it seems to have a much different adjustment procedure from what I have been use to doing.

Had a bit of an issue with the new tail shaft bushing that was replaced when rebuilding the trans. I have always checked to make sure the intermediate shaft fit the bushing before and after installation. The shaft was packed away up in the loft and since there had never been an issue in the past it was not double checked this time.

Yes, if you are thinking it didn’t go in. I new that I was not going to pull the trans out just for that. The shaft needed to have about .002” polished off the OD and it now fits. This did take quite a while, used a micrometer to make sure the material was taken off equally.

Got the TCG in from the UK the other day. Went with the 6.1’s with the 24% lower high gear reduction since this Rig will have mostly stop light to stop light driving. Cleaning up the spare Transfer Case now. Need to order some more parts from lowrange in a couple of week’s.
(need to stay in monthly build budget)

Made some more shiny stuff for the engine compartment.