tons, cummins, 40s, 80 series Land Cruiser build

Thanks for that link, I could only dream of having 10% of that guys skills. Wow

 

Deleted rear heater, removed a bunch of crap, removed mounts. Now back to work.

 

Can't say I agree with you on the reliablity of these vs an older minitruck. Granted the 22RE is awesome. I've had two different trucks with the 22RE. The 80 series cruiser does have a couple minor problems that can be common like the HG and PHH, but other than that they are very reliable. Besides, the 3FE that was in your truck didn't even have those issues with the PHH or HG. It was just a WAY underpowered motor for a big truck.

The 1FZ on the other hand is no racecar but a good motor. I bought my FZJ80 with 110K miles on it back in 2000. I've wheeled the piss out of it since then and it has over 300K miles on it now and the motor is still kicking along. It leaks a bit but what do you expect. Still on the original head gasket too. I don't know how you call that unreliable. There are Cruisers that haven't been cared for and they'll be a PITA, but there are an equal number of minitrucks that have been treated like crap too. If you take your time to find a decent one, they are out there all over and getting very affordable.

All of that being said, I'm diggin your plans. The cummins will be nice in there. The bigger axles will be cool, but I don't exactly understand the reasoning. Is it so you can build a hardcore crawler and run massive tires? If it is, I'm confused as to why you chose a very large bodied truck like an 80 series for a crawler. If you don't plan on hardcore rockcrawling the stock axles (expecially with the lockers) are pretty sticking strong. Lots of guys running 37's on them.

Also confused to why you'd chose to go with leaves in the rear. It's already 4-linked with a panhard. The rear flexes like crazy with the stock setup and can even get better with custom links. Going to leaves seems totally backward to me.

As for IH8MUD.....and Cruiser owners in general.......You've got the wrong idea. I can't disagree that there are plenty of guys on MUD that can't put air in a tire, but there is also some serious knowledge there if you know who to ask.

Anyway. Looking forward to watching your progress.

 

Hope I didn't give you the wrong idea. I am by no means a Toyota "purist" that thinks you should go to hell for doing a motor swap or using GM axles. Just trying to get an understanding for the reasons behind the changes your planning.

The motor I totally get. Like I said before the 3FE is a total dog in these trucks so swapping it out is a good move. I'm even tossing the idea around of pulling the Vortec V8 out of my Yukon and dropping it into my 80 series.

I guess I can see why you're swapping axles too if the ones on the truck don't have lockers and the rear isn't a full float.

3-linking the front I can see too. The factory radius arm isn't aweful but can definitely limit flex. But I still don't get why the move to leaves in the rear. For simplicity so you don't have to worry about link geometry with a new axle?

 

When building your motor mounts try to keep the cummins as far up and back as possible. It is a tall engine, and will restrict your solid axle under compression. Yet you can only shoehorn that engine in there as best you can anyway due to its size and the new home she is going into. Remember that engine is well over 1100 lbs dressed for the show and it takes a hefty spring to hold her up.
The springs in the truck pictured below have 4 spring rates and ramp up from 350 to 650 to 850 to 1200. They worked very well, and drove comfortably on the road, but could still soak up good oops. Shock valving to work with the springs is another thing.
Steering, look for a saginaw box from older GM 3/4 ton trucks, or a box from a wadded up newer dodge ram 2500/3500. Bigger tires and the weight of the engine are tuff on the steering without a hydro assist unit.
12 valve for the win. Keep it simple, address the KDP, stick in some injectors matched to a turbo, fuel plate, air intake and exhaust and you have a good reliable engine that will build clean useable power. The beauty of the 12 valve is that she is all mechanical. It is a shame what the EPA has done to the diesel world.

Awesome build, keep us informed.

 

Ehh

Thanks man.

Will be running stock 80 box with hydro assist.

Not sure on springs yet, shouldn't be too hard to figure out when I get to that.

For shocks I will consult valving master Jason.

For engine I will fix the KDP. I'm not new to 12 valves or cummins so it'll get some goodies over time. It's a VE pump though...

 

Been a cummins fanatic for well over 10 years. Have never had a ve, but have had 2 p pump trucks that were excellent trucks. most disagree, but i am a 24 valve guy. if you know what to do them, they are more reliable and efficient then a 3rd or 4th gen anyday. But you need to have a nv4500 or 5600 trans behind the 24 valve.
Just sold a 2nd gen that had over 1100 ft lbs at the rear wheel. she was a beast and could pull anything not bolted down.

 

I'll just say regarding mud, those links I posted were prime examples of why I'm turned off to mud, I find myself browsing there regardless but still...

Re FJ80 reliability, they're good trucks but the cruiser crowd seems to find them the holy grail of reliability and the pinnacle of off road SUV technology, and again I don't think they're bad trucks but I think it may just be mud turning me off...

We can just agree to disagree.

 

Yeah I will be on the hunt for an NV4500 after I get this going. I think that Getrag will hold up okay but it's not ideal.

 

Basically

I like the FJ80, it's underpowered, I don't want gas, etc etc 12V is perfect in every way -- for me.

I don't want an auto, I don't want a weak trans. Even the 47RH that came stock didn't really hold up to much more than stock and they wear out. The A440 just wouldn't do.

I want to run all sorts of trails, tired of beating on Taco and being limited by it.

Want to do it right the first time, don't care what it costs.

Even the 9.5 FF wouldn't hold up to the cummins, period. 8" front would definitely not hold up even with longfields the weak points become knuckles and 3rd. Hellfire knuckles cost and arm and a leg, then you're stuck with a 8" hp front still. Trussed chevy KP dana 60 (9 3/4" ring gear) ARB with 35 spline stubs should get me by for a good while and then either chromos or RCVS. 14 bolt with welded tubes and welded should handle 40s and cummins just fine.

I never understood peoples opposition to leaves. For the rear they're fantastic, easy to set up, cheap, very stable, durable, and they can flex well. The stock short arm parallel 4 link isn't that awesome anyway and it certainly doesn't make sense to keep it when upgrading to a 1 ton axle. I could link the rear but it adds, for me, unnecessary cost and complication.

Yes tire size goal is 40". I realize the land cruiser is a land yacht, but I don't want a strict crawler or I'd build a 2nd gen runner. I know the cummins is a heavy engine and I'm making this thing a pig but again that's why trying to overbuild and do it right the first time.

I know it may seem like I just picked a direction and flew with it but I've thought everything through and their is reason purpose and a method to the madness.

That and I knew what I needed to do after I saw project rattle trap.

I've been scheming for YEARS though.

 

Finally, another real build

 

Hope you got a lot of popcorn cause it might be a while.

So much to do. So much to buy. I'll never finish.

 

Oh and for assorted nefarious activities, that's another reason... yeah...

cause nothing screams excess and non PC like cummins powered FJ80 on 40s

 

YEAH RIGHT

 

Looking good, as for all the negativity for what you want for axles and motor that people are bitching about? Who cares make it reliable, stout, and have it meet all your needs. Your on the right track to a badass rig which, tires do you want to run on it?