Turbo Taco

Ok so i've just bout a turbo, intercooler, BOV, and piping. Just need the turbo manifold and whatever else I need in order to not blow my engine at say just 5psi. The problem is...I don't know what I need to do with the engine in order to not blow it. I've read that a boost controller is good to have but Idk if thats it or wat else i need to do with the fuel air mixture problem. Please help. Thanks

 

Probably be a good idea to tell us a little more information, i.e. engine your running, etc, etc...

 

haha yea my bad forgot bout that.
Its a 2000 Taco 3.4L V6 Engine Extended Cab 2WD.

 

Some more info

24 valve DOHC engine has a 3.68-inch bore, 3.23 inch stroke, compression ratio of 9.6 to 1

190 hp at 4800 rpm and 220 ft lbs of torque at 3600 rpm

 

Let me see if I understand you; you think you got most of the parts but your not sure, instead of a kit with instructions, and now you need help with what to do with them ? Is this your daily driver or is it a spare dirt truck ?

You are aware that these engines, as stout as they are, are not engineered for a turbo ? cosequently the injectors (maybe fuel rail), fuel pump and certainly the computer (amoung other things) is going to need to be tuned to the turbo so you are not burning holes in pistons etc.

Sounds like you need to get together with this guy and compare notes:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/performance-tuning/124048-source-turbo-mani.html

There are several groups that kit Tacoma turbochargers and they may have pdf files available of their instructions that you may be able to convert to fit your stuff.

 

OK you will need;

- turbo manifold
- down pipe
- waste gate
- injectors
- turbo oil feed lines
- turbo oil drain lines
- if the turbo has ports for coolant, you will need coolant lines too
- couplers and T-Bolt clamps for inter cooler piping
- engine management (emanage, AEM FI-C, SAFC-2 or NEO - they are universal should work on any car, but crap) The real way of how to tune a turbo car is to make stock ECU your BITCH, via reflash or software or go standalone management like MOTEC, AEM EMS... If you don't get engine management, your car will run, but it will be VERY rich, we are talking 8-9 AFR, which shouldn't blow the motor, however it will foul your plugs VERY fast.

You will need shop to probably custom make your down pipe. Try to use vband connections, if you can.

You don't need boost controller. Boost can be controlled by what spring you put in waste gate, usually waste gates come with 5psi, 7psi, 9psi spring and some shims...

I don't know if you need fuel pump. You will find that out when you try to tune the the car and it runs lean up top no matter what you do, then you know that the stock fuel pump doesn't flow enough fuel.

I would recommend AFR & boost gauge at least, so you know what amount of boost you are running and at what AFR.

When you tune it go for 11.8 at WOT in boost. 12.1 is ok but not on the safe side, anything leaner will cause detonation and you will shoot rod through the block.

 

I didn't see a wideband in there. get yourself one with an in cab display. there's a lot to turbo a vehicle. I had a custom turbo setup on my accord I used to have. plan to spend many hours street tuning for driveability and many hours on the dyno for WOT and full boost tuning. Do not skimp on your fuel system and do not skimp on your tuning. find a good tuner who knows your EMS well.

 

Another thought, if you are trying to do this cheap - it isnt going to happen.

There is a reason the kits are 5 grand or so.

 

I suggested AFR gauge... ERRR... technically wideband is not needed, shops have their own wideband when they tune the car. I would suggest that you take it to someone who knows what they are doing, tuning a turbo car is no easy task and simple mistake can cost you a lot of money.

 

S/C easy to do, sell your turbo and buy a bolt on s/c. Unless you have all the time and money in the world and a spare truck, then do it B-)

 

as long as the AFR guage has a wideband display. an AFR guage that is not wideband is a worthless colored light show. I had a PLX setup on my accord with a digital readout display mounted under my radio. It would tell me my actual AFR ratio at all times which was very benficial when street tuning. The PLX unit I had also had a datalogging cable that I could hook to my tuning software on my laptop to datalog my AFR ratios.

Also, you don't really need to hookup the coolant lines if your turbo has them, the oil will cool it just fine. I ran my T25 for 50,000 miles and 12psi of boost on a daily basis w/ the coolant lines capped, I never had an issue.

Let me see if I can remember everything I had on my accord turbo setup to give you an idea of everything you will need.

-2nd Gen DSM T25 turbo w/ internal wastegate (a bleeder Tee netted me 12psi of boost.)
-Intercooler
-custom intercooler piping (make sure you use V-band clamps, I popped off too many worm gear clamps and decided to switch)
-1st Gen DSM BOV (great BOV for very little money)
-Custom turbo manifold w/ custom heat shield
-Custom downpipe
-Custom 2.5" turbo back exhuast system (didn't go 3" because thats too much for a T25 and the low(er) boost I was running)
-AEM adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator
-stock fuel rail
-1st Gen DSM 440cc injectors
-walbro 255lph fuel pump (go ahead on buy one..better safe than sorry..only about $100 shipped and well worth the piece of mind)
-Custom oil feed line w/ tee off of the oil pressure sensor
-custom oil drain line w/ bung welded on the oil pan
-PLX wideband setup w/ digital in cab readout w/ datalogging capability
-colder spark plugs. I ran NGK BKR7E's
-Eprom'ed chipped OBD1 honda ECU running a freeware tuning program called uberdata, it allowed me to change fuel and ignition timing maps it also allowed me a to run a 2step for WOT throttle launches.
-EGT guage
-Oil Pressue Guage
-Boost guage
-Apexi pen style turbo timer (keeps the vehicle running when you turn it off to cool the turbo)
-I also disabled my EVAP system and ran an EGR block off plate
-2 hours of dyno tuning time
-countless hours of street tuning before and after the dyno tuning. I had to street tune it enough to drive to the shop for the dyno tuning, then street tune again for regular everyday driveability.
-Udgraded the clutch to an exedy stage two clutch and sometimes the upgraded clutch would still slip a little after a few highway pulls on a hot day

 

Yea that's a lot more than I thought. It's hard to decide whether to go on and try to get all the stuff and install it because that's a lot of money that I will have to accumulate through time and I don't even know if I have a Dyno tuner anywhere near where I live. What is all that is needed for a Super charger? and does it acquire the same amount of hp per psi of boost as a turbo? One more question...Will it blow my engine as easy as a turbo?

 

Not to be a dick, BUT... If you have to ask all these questions, you will be much better off slapping on headers, intake & exhaust and calling it a day...

It seems like you dont have the money or knowledge to properly turbocharge or supercharge your truck...

 

X2; that was my take initially, but . . . .

And aside from all the Stuff that you have to accumulate, this is not a weekend job (probably more than a significant time investment), how long can you be without a vehicle ? and where are you going to do it; Ya got a garage, shop, vacant lot next door ? tools ?

 

agreed. My car was out of comission for almost a month while everything was getting fabbed. I had to drive around my grand-dad's '79 poop brown Ford F-100 during that time

 

Guys guys guys. lol. I have noticed there is not very many turbo people on here. Or something.

I already PM'ed this guy everything he needs and needs to do. Ive been boosted for a year.

To the OP: If your only going to be running 5psi, then you will be fine on stock fuel system and ECU.

To whoever said that these engines arent that strong or whatever, I have to disagree.

ARP Head Studs and a Cometic head gasket. With proper fuel easily run 15psi no problem with stock internals.

These engines are very well built and are very strong. There are more people on customtacos that are boosted than I can even count. Thats where I first began and got all my info. If you need a mani head over there and there are guys that build them pretty regularly.

As said before. This is not a weekend job. Pulling the head and installing the head studs and head gasket will take a weekend or more alone. My entire build took me 2 weeks.

I also agree big time with 08whitetaco. If you have never done it and dont really have the knowledge or anyone that really knows what they are doing to help you, I wouldnt even attempt it, unless you can afford to have your truck down for long time.

As far as the price goes my first setup was around 4k. If you are just going to run 4-5 psi, you can pretty much almost cut that in half. I bought a "kit" for mine from KOracing.net and was pretty much turn key. 4psi. Cost around 2300. Then add AEM wideband and boost gauge your at around 2600. Not to bad.

If you are boost your truck, get a wideband. You want to be able to see your AFR's at all times if you know whats good for ya. For people that ride around without a wideband, I say good luck to you and your engine if something was to happen.

No reason not to get one. A Wideband to me is just as important as the turbo itself. And AFR's is one of the most important things you want to monitor.

All in all its not hard to do a low boost setup. Your truck comes factory with pink top injectors which are rated at around 325cc and I know people that run 8 psi on those injectors and stock fuel pump, and ECU. You could run 5 NOOO problem.

If you need anything PM me man. Ive been there done that with tacoma's.

 

So according to your statement, the stock ECU will tune itself for the added air automagically? I call bullshit on this, unless there is some software reflash you can do through OBD-II port. I have been around turbo cars for a while, helped build & tune quite a few. None of those cars would run well and get to 11.8AFR at WOT under boost without tuning either with reflash or piggy back device.

 

You call BS on this? Have you ever had a turbo tacoma? Have you turbo'd your tacoma? Do you know more people than you can count on 2 hands that have turbo tacomas? No. Get your facts straight before you go giving people advice.

Our ECU's are awesome. They are WAAAYYY better than any "car" anyone has ever put a turbo on. And for the record yeah, the ecu will automatically adjust to the increased air.

Go over to Customtacos.com and just see how many people are turbo'd and run stock ECU.

Stock ECU, injectors and pump on 2rz's are good to around 8psi. WOT on the WIDEBAND is in the 11's.

I know a guy that runs 8psi DAILY on stock everything. 11.8 @ WOT. Call BS on that? Go to youtube, its on there.

ME personally? I ran 10psi yeah I said 10psi on stock ECU. I hit 10's on the wideband @WOT before.

Please dont call me out when ive done it and been around it. You may have turbo'd other cars, but tacomas are totally different story when it comes to holding up under boost and stock setups.

I know 2 guys that run 15psi on stock internals DAILY. No problems at all. The internals are crazy strong. I run 10psi daily on stock internals.

BACK ON TOPIC: Auzy22 if you want to turbo your truck go for it. Youll love it. Do you need a piggyback for 5psi? Hell no. Injectors? Nope. Just get a new fuel filter just to be safe and hit the road.

Heres where I bought my entire first setup from.

http://koracing.net/viewproduct.php?folder=103&product=479

Look at the dyno charts. Both of the first trucks he did ran stock everything. They were fine. That guy that owned the 96 just through in some 360cc injectors and ran stock ecu on 10psi daily.

The longer you drive one the better it will run. Once you put in bigger injectors and/or a fuel pump the ECU has a auto-learn feature that will automatically start trimming the fuel.

EDIT: Oh btw our ECU's are read-only they cannot be written to. Which means you cannot tune a stock ECU. Unlike some cars.

 

i say screw the manifold and make a custom rear mounted turbo kit. get some ideas from sts turbos on their website.

 

For 5 psi you can run the stock ecu by adding larger injectors (pink tops)to compensate for WOT AFR being richer since the O2 sensor is not used in this condition, generally into the 11's AFR numbers, no reprogramming is possible in those ECUs...unlike the newer ones.
But 5 maybe 6 psi is as high as you want go before you need to start using a piggyback ECU for fueling and a high volume fuel pump. After 10psi you want to upgrade your head gasket and studs, after 15psi a standalone ECU becomes necessary IMO to get a proper tune, also you will need a beefy clutch or an auto trans upgrade, also a locker for the rear diff....