Part 2....engine bay time.
Grabbed some 3" exhaust from a local shop for $15. Test fit and found I needed to cut some more fender to get some clearance. Not really and issue with a Dremel. Filed down and primed the hole once again. Then I used some left over roofing flashing I had to buffer the fender from the pipe. I put (4) layers (about 3/16" thick) which still left me with a small 1/8" gap from fender to pipe. The rubber will slow vibrations and wear should the pipe come into contact with the fender.
After test fitting I primed the pipe.
Sealed up the inside and outside of the intake hole with (2) layers of flashing.
Threw a bead of DOW around both ends, because I wasn't able to get any on the inside.
Test fit the washer fluid reservoir and found I had some clearance issues. I threw (3) layer of flashing on it to stop any vibes/wear.
Random pic of the hole.
Then I used some exhaust wrap to keep the engine heat from the pipe (Hodges idea).
Luckily when installing the washer reservoir I had a extra bolt and rubber spacer laying around and I used them to rotate the mounting of the reservoir so it clears the pipe.
Hard to see, but I have a heavy 1/8" clearance.
I was working in my buddies garage so when I was done I had him start the truck while I looked for vibration/clearance issues. Once it was warmed up I had him give it some gas a couple times and nothing vibrated, rattled, or touched.
I think with proper test fitting, trimming of the snorkel, and trimming of the rubber tube a perfect installation through the existing intake hole is possible. If only I had thought of cutting the snorkel before I got frustrated test fitting and chopped the inside of my fender and caulked the snorkel on.