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Snorkel Installation: 2nd Gen SS135MOD & 1st Gen SS170HF

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Old 02-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjbonner View Post
well that spray foam stuff is like an insulation and i believe it would absorb the vibration. i dont think it would transfer to the fender...experimentation is the only way to find out i guess.
True. I was playing with it at lunch today and it is not the tube touching the WW Resi as I wrapped it in various soft materials and drove it around the block. So I started beating on the fender a bit and can here a tinny loose sound in the fender. So I guess I will open it up this weekend and see if something is loose in there.

God I hope it isn't something stupid like i forgot to tighten one of the nuts.
But than again if it was that simple it would be nice.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:56 PM   #22
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Part 2....engine bay time.

Grabbed some 3" exhaust from a local shop for $15. Test fit and found I needed to cut some more fender to get some clearance. Not really and issue with a Dremel. Filed down and primed the hole once again. Then I used some left over roofing flashing I had to buffer the fender from the pipe. I put (4) layers (about 3/16" thick) which still left me with a small 1/8" gap from fender to pipe. The rubber will slow vibrations and wear should the pipe come into contact with the fender.



After test fitting I primed the pipe.



Sealed up the inside and outside of the intake hole with (2) layers of flashing.





Threw a bead of DOW around both ends, because I wasn't able to get any on the inside.



Test fit the washer fluid reservoir and found I had some clearance issues. I threw (3) layer of flashing on it to stop any vibes/wear.



Random pic of the hole.



Then I used some exhaust wrap to keep the engine heat from the pipe (Hodges idea).



Luckily when installing the washer reservoir I had a extra bolt and rubber spacer laying around and I used them to rotate the mounting of the reservoir so it clears the pipe.



Hard to see, but I have a heavy 1/8" clearance.



All done.





I was working in my buddies garage so when I was done I had him start the truck while I looked for vibration/clearance issues. Once it was warmed up I had him give it some gas a couple times and nothing vibrated, rattled, or touched.



I think with proper test fitting, trimming of the snorkel, and trimming of the rubber tube a perfect installation through the existing intake hole is possible. If only I had thought of cutting the snorkel before I got frustrated test fitting and chopped the inside of my fender and caulked the snorkel on.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:39 PM   #24
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Nice job sir!
Your ready to go diving now!

I'm ready to put yours on now Might be quicker if we just use a torch for that install.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:47 PM   #26
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good work boyd. cant wait for warm weather to install mine
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:54 PM   #27
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STEP 6: Test fit and trim down the Hose – Air Entry.
It is beneficial to fit this air entry hose to the entire snorkel body assembly and then do a test fit before final install of the snorkel body to the fender.
Pay close attention to the tight fit inside the fender and take your time.
I trimmed about 5 inches+ off mine (an inch at a time!) where it mounts to the snorkel inside the fender. Trim the oval end, DO NOT trim round end!
This is necessary as it is a tight turn inside the fender for the air entry hose to fit through the inner fender well air intake opening.
Once you are satisfied with fit and length, move on to next step.
NOTE: Save a 2 inch wide piece of the air entry hose for use later on the intake.


did you do this? or is this what you are saying you should of done to get it to line up properly?
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLink View Post

did you do this? or is this what you are saying you should of done to get it to line up properly?

Yup. Till it bottomed out on the hard plastic of the snorkel. Here's what I cut off.



I'm thinking a little trim of the snorkel itself might be the key. Not sure yet, but I thought about it last night then took a look at yours and I think that might be it. I know my placement of the snorkel itself is good. The antenna lines up.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:58 PM   #29
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Good idea with the layers of flashing
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver07taco View Post
Good idea with the layers of flashing
Thanks. I was looking around my basement, saw it and said hell yea.


How much fender did you have to cut?
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
Yup. Till it bottomed out on the hard plastic of the snorkel. Here's what I cut off.



I'm thinking a little trim of the snorkel itself might be the key. Not sure yet, but I thought about it last night then took a look at yours and I think that might be it. I know my placement of the snorkel itself is good. The antenna lines up.
Yea I just found that picture too, was reading your install again. Do you think it is possible to move the snorkel any farther back towards the windshield, have the antennae as close to the front side of the notch as possible to gain a little more room, or is it not really gonna make much difference? and when you say trim the snorkel, you're talking about the part where the air inlet tube attaches to the snorkel right?

the cruiser outfitters install makes it look like it should definitely line up.. lol. DAMN
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:12 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
Thanks. I was looking around my basement, saw it and said hell yea.


How much fender did you have to cut?
Goin have to find something like that to fill up the holes.

I didnt have to trim as much as you guys had too.

Just trimed up a little bit.
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLink View Post
Yea I just found that picture too, was reading your install again. Do you think it is possible to move the snorkel any farther back towards the windshield, have the antennae as close to the front side of the notch as possible to gain a little more room, or is it not really gonna make much difference? and when you say trim the snorkel, you're talking about the part where the air inlet tube attaches to the snorkel right?

the cruiser outfitters install makes it look like it should definitely line up.. lol. DAMN
The antenna won't line up if you move the snorkel. Mines pretty much centered perfect. You'll see it.

Yup, that's the spot. I couldn't trim any more rubber off so I said screw it. If we cut the plastic the rubber boot will slide back towards the cab more. I thought about cutting mine today from inside the fender but I was lazy and already had a enlarged hole + it didn't bother me to hack some more sheet metal. That's probably the only part on the truck that will never rust
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
The antenna won't line up if you move the snorkel. Mines pretty much centered perfect. You'll see it.

Yup, that's the spot. I couldn't trim any more rubber off so I said screw it. If we cut the plastic the rubber boot will slide back towards the cab more. I thought about cutting mine today from inside the fender but I was lazy and already had a enlarged hole + it didn't bother me to hack some more sheet metal. That's probably the only part on the truck that will never rust
Yeah I thought of this too and cut about 2" off the hard snorkel end in the fender on the initial install. Still did not gain much because at some point you are elbow to elbow on the two pieces plus you need enough room to clamp it on. I still wonder if there was a small design change on the intake and fender hole during some model year.

Brilliant idea on the flashing to seal up the hole. Flexible too. I will have to look into that. I will have to see if I can pivot my Wash Resi with a bolt and spacer to gain some more room.

On the vibration factor I have to stress that it was while in gear not while in park or disengaged. I had no vibes then because the engine wasn't under load at all. When you drive it around is when you might hear the vibes. Have you driven it around yet?
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:23 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoTacoTRD View Post
Yeah I thought of this too and cut about 2" off the hard snorkel end in the fender on the initial install. Still did not gain much because at some point you are elbow to elbow on the two pieces plus you need enough room to clamp it on. I still wonder if there was a small design change on the intake and fender hole during some model year.

Brilliant idea on the flashing to seal up the hole. Flexible too. I will have to look into that. I will have to see if I can pivot my Wash Resi with a bolt and spacer to gain some more room.

On the vibration factor I have to stress that it was while in gear not while in park or disengaged. I had no vibes then because the engine wasn't under load at all. When you drive it around is when you might hear the vibes. Have you driven it around yet?
I did about (5) miles worth of driving and I can't tell if it vibrates while driving cause I'm driving My buddy cranked it up to about 4,000 rpm and the engine didn't even move so I think I'm good. I heard nothing and it didn't contact anything.

The bolt I used for the washer reservoir bolt is M6-1 x 35mm. Not sure why I had a box of them, but they work just fine.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:17 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
I did about (5) miles worth of driving and I can't tell if it vibrates while driving cause I'm driving My buddy cranked it up to about 4,000 rpm and the engine didn't even move so I think I'm good. I heard nothing and it didn't contact anything.

The bolt I used for the washer reservoir bolt is M6-1 x 35mm. Not sure why I had a box of them, but they work just fine.
Trust me if you had an issue you would hear it.

Good to know. I guess I will open it up this weekend and see what is loose in there. I actually have about an 1/8 of an inch space on my resi now so I am just thinking I could gain some more this way. I wonder if that longer bolt that held the stock air intake in would work on that spot? I will have to see.

Great job on the water tight install!
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:38 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoTacoTRD View Post
Trust me if you had an issue you would hear it.

Good to know. I guess I will open it up this weekend and see what is loose in there. I actually have about an 1/8 of an inch space on my resi now so I am just thinking I could gain some more this way. I wonder if that longer bolt that held the stock air intake in would work on that spot? I will have to see.

Great job on the water tight install!
How bad does your engine rock? Mine barley moves. Worst case just grab the flex kit Coil used and any vibes will be eliminated.

The intake bolt is much larger and won't fit.

Thanks. Still not how I would do the next one, but it will work.




Joe just picked his up and we were talking about some things people might not wanna do now that they have these on their trucks.

#1: If you use a mechanical car wash - watch out - you might have an issue.

#2: When washing your car don't spray the hose in the intake.

Both common sense, but better to say something now.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:27 PM   #39
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It's strange on mine and there must be something loose. it is only at a small RPM range when the truck is cold. Do you have a auto or manual. I wonder if engine rock has something to do with the tranny type. Once the truck warms up all is gone usually after about 10 minutes of driving it around.

Thought about and saved the stock intake for the flex portion of it. That is going to be my second route if all else fails.

As far as water and the snorkel I still wonder about snow build up on the face of the snorkel in a blizzard while driving. I will have to keep an eye on that.
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Old 02-25-2011, 01:30 PM   #40
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You could always rotate the snorkle opening around backwards. That's what the guys in our local group do...
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