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URD 2.825" Pulley for TRD S/C

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Old 04-18-2012, 07:03 AM   #1
BradleyJ33 [OP] BradleyJ33 is offline
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URD 2.825" Pulley for TRD S/C

If I want to upgrade to the URD pulley on my TRD S/C for a little extra boost, is there any further tuning that needs to be done or is the stock re-flash for the S/C sufficient? I'm interested in adding a little extra "oomph", but not real keen on the idea of dropping $1500 for the UCON just yet after just dropping the cash for the TRD S/C. Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:12 PM   #2
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from what I have seen you can run it without any special tuning. however its always best to tune for the specific set up to get the best out of your mods, not to mention its the safest option. I will be running my pulley for a bit before I install my X1. Any other mods than the SC?
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:35 PM   #4
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Cool

The 2.85 pulley is great with the reflash... Anymore boost from nst though would need additional tuning like the x1 or ucon... Get some dtlt's already...
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:11 PM   #5
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I am currently running the 2.85" pulley without any other reflash and the thing is a fucking beast. It seriously wakes up the supercharger. Currently the only tuner for our trucks (2010) is the Un-i-chip as no one else has a plug and play set up for our trucks due to toyota not releasing the plug specs so no can make one.

Go for the pulley, installation is easy, jsut follow the ones provided and go for it. I havent had a single problem with mine and I drive/wheel mine hard.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRON View Post
The 2.85 pulley is great with the reflash... Anymore boost from nst though would need additional tuning like the x1 or ucon... Get some dtlt's already...
Quote:
I am currently running the 2.85" pulley without any other reflash and the thing is a fucking beast. It seriously wakes up the supercharger. Currently the only tuner for our trucks (2010) is the Un-i-chip as no one else has a plug and play set up for our trucks due to toyota not releasing the plug specs so no can make one.

Go for the pulley, installation is easy, jsut follow the ones provided and go for it. I havent had a single problem with mine and I drive/wheel mine hard.
Ya'll sold me on it! Gonna place my order this afternoon!
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:44 AM   #7
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Get the URD installation tool as well. It will make your life so much easier.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:46 PM   #10
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is 10psi safe on a stock block? seems high for a NA block, not that I really know much about the stock internals of a 1gr). Would it be reliable, meaning could you DD it for 50K-75K without a motor build?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:21 PM   #12
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The stock reflash is gonna be cutting it damn close to getting out of spec with that much boost... I'll let Tor explain this one though
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
May I present sdxrunner619? .....

I will let that sink in a little before I continue....
I know that he makes it work. It still scares me though
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:28 AM   #15
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sorry new to the forum, don't know who sdxrunner619 is. But by his signature its seems that his truck is an xrunner and, most XR owners I bet he treats it like a car, mine however is pulling at least one quad most weekends, a 20' enclosed car trailer about once a month and hopefully a boat in the future, along with running 4X4 thru snow/etc. Now, could this be a DD set up with a stock motor? I don't drag race my truck, I have cars and a bike if I want to do that, but I do think I work my truck (like a truck is meant for) and I would like it to have a bit more power for that

I have contemplated getting another motor as a failsafe or build motor, but contemplating and forced too are two different things

thanks for your input
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grant99 View Post
sorry new to the forum, don't know who sdxrunner619 is. But by his signature its seems that his truck is an xrunner and, most XR owners I bet he treats it like a car, mine however is pulling at least one quad most weekends, a 20' enclosed car trailer about once a month and hopefully a boat in the future, along with running 4X4 thru snow/etc. Now, could this be a DD set up with a stock motor? I don't drag race my truck, I have cars and a bike if I want to do that, but I do think I work my truck (like a truck is meant for) and I would like it to have a bit more power for that

I have contemplated getting another motor as a failsafe or build motor, but contemplating and forced too are two different things

thanks for your input
Let's go back a little bit. To the original question. ~8 psi on the reflash? Simple. Only thing necessary is a fuel pump upgrade. Two things usually have happened when people start to boost. One, their factory fuel pump hasn't been under the regular service interval. At 30k. Why would it have been in the first place though? Most are running fine still at that point. So, the factory fuel filter is fairly clogged. Would not even be noticeable until the pump is required to push more fuel for boost.
Two, the factory fuel pump is barely rated for 6 psi, at WOT, higher rpm range. Couple that with a clogged filter, and 6 psi of boost could cause detonation to blow the rings or head gasket.
Solution, upgrade the pump to, at minimum, a Walbro 255. I recommend the HP unit, for those that are trying to push past 10 psi, with rising fuel pressure. www.urdusa.com has a nice kit with instructions. Their 255 lph is the non HP version. It likes static fuel pressure. 12 psi increase of fuel pressure on that pump will cause fuel flow fluctuations. Either pump, at static 43.5 psi is capable of around 700 whp. Add the inline fuel filter that is easily changed within minutes vs the factory one which needs the tank to be dropped, as well as the whole unit to be replaced for $450+ , and you see that it is a no brainer.

www.Dezod.com sells them for the Tacomas as well.

Now that you have fueling coverd for boost, 14 psi boost at static pressure, then it comes down to the injectors flow capability. The 425ccm injectors that come with the TRD s/c kit, are rated to effective 400 crank HP, at 43.5 psi. Well my friend didn't have the money to purchase an aftermarket EMS. He said that at 8 psi boost, he was having certain AFR fluctuations. He is also a Toyota mechanic in training. I told him to run a vacuum line from the point on the s/c where the boost gauge hose ties in, to the factory fuel pressure regulator. Oddly enough it isn't used in by the way the factory setup the hose to it.

From that nipple on the s/c, his FPR now sees vacuum and boost. So for each psi of boost increase, his fuel pressure also increases as well, to make the 425cc injectors able to flow more. His AFRs are now smoother than they were before, and he was even now running rich at 8 psi. Being that he likes to push the envelope, he decided to add the www.nonstoptuning.com lower s/c pulley. The added boost raised his AFR to be mid to low 11's. Perfect.

The point of all of that is this alone. He abuses the crap out of his truck, since he drift races it. Always at the high end of the rpm range. Plus it is his DD. It is a stock block. He also has a T-stat mod that I did for him, to keep his engine nice and cool, to aid in knock prevention. It works very well, i must say. He has been going strong since February at 10 psi on his stock block, on the reflash.

Aside from him, there are tons of people running 10 psi, and have been for a long time with the addition of some aftermarket EMS. All on stock components.

Two things will tear apart a stock block. Knock, and raised rpm over stock for a length of a few years.

I hope that helps.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:29 AM   #18
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ya sorry to get swerve from the OP's question. I do appreciate the response, there is a lot of great info in there
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
Let's go back a little bit. To the original question. ~8 psi on the reflash? Simple. Only thing necessary is a fuel pump upgrade. Two things usually have happened when people start to boost. One, their factory fuel pump hasn't been under the regular service interval. At 30k. Why would it have been in the first place though? Most are running fine still at that point. So, the factory fuel filter is fairly clogged. Would not even be noticeable until the pump is required to push more fuel for boost.
Two, the factory fuel pump is barely rated for 6 psi, at WOT, higher rpm range. Couple that with a clogged filter, and 6 psi of boost could cause detonation to blow the rings or head gasket.
Solution, upgrade the pump to, at minimum, a Walbro 255. I recommend the HP unit, for those that are trying to push past 10 psi, with rising fuel pressure. www.urdusa.com has a nice kit with instructions. Their 255 lph is the non HP version. It likes static fuel pressure. 12 psi increase of fuel pressure on that pump will cause fuel flow fluctuations. Either pump, at static 43.5 psi is capable of around 700 whp. Add the inline fuel filter that is easily changed within minutes vs the factory one which needs the tank to be dropped, as well as the whole unit to be replaced for $450+ , and you see that it is a no brainer.

www.Dezod.com sells them for the Tacomas as well.

Now that you have fueling coverd for boost, 14 psi boost at static pressure, then it comes down to the injectors flow capability. The 425ccm injectors that come with the TRD s/c kit, are rated to effective 400 crank HP, at 43.5 psi. Well my friend didn't have the money to purchase an aftermarket EMS. He said that at 8 psi boost, he was having certain AFR fluctuations. He is also a Toyota mechanic in training. I told him to run a vacuum line from the point on the s/c where the boost gauge hose ties in, to the factory fuel pressure regulator. Oddly enough it isn't used in by the way the factory setup the hose to it.

From that nipple on the s/c, his FPR now sees vacuum and boost. So for each psi of boost increase, his fuel pressure also increases as well, to make the 425cc injectors able to flow more. His AFRs are now smoother than they were before, and he was even now running rich at 8 psi. Being that he likes to push the envelope, he decided to add the www.nonstoptuning.com lower s/c pulley. The added boost raised his AFR to be mid to low 11's. Perfect.

The point of all of that is this alone. He abuses the crap out of his truck, since he drift races it. Always at the high end of the rpm range. Plus it is his DD. It is a stock block. He also has a T-stat mod that I did for him, to keep his engine nice and cool, to aid in knock prevention. It works very well, i must say. He has been going strong since February at 10 psi on his stock block, on the reflash.

Aside from him, there are tons of people running 10 psi, and have been for a long time with the addition of some aftermarket EMS. All on stock components.

Two things will tear apart a stock block. Knock, and raised rpm over stock for a length of a few years.

I hope that helps.
DAMN I LOVE ANSWERS LIKE THIS !
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