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Most Powerful naturally aspirated 6cyl

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Old 08-15-2012, 07:08 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by tostidos View Post
I basically need to find a shit ton of stickers to add HP
lol yeah man thats the only performance mod you need! and underglow
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:45 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
By-product of working with URD.


Whats the deal with that?
Overbore sleeves? If so how much displacement is added, and is there a stroker crank as well to compliment this?

I remember you and Balsby doing something a while back with APR, is that what it is?
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:00 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by Speed Freek View Post
Whats the deal with that?
Overbore sleeves? If so how much displacement is added, and is there a stroker crank as well to compliment this?

I remember you and Balsby doing something a while back with APR, is that what it is?
These are Darton Modular Integrated Deck (M.I.D.) sleeves. Completely replace the factory sleeves. Gadget shipped themone of my spare blocks so that they could cut it apart and get all the necessary measurements to the sleeves. With these, one could have them bored without worry of sacrificing cylinder strength. Obviously. The only question would be how much you could go based off of the combustion chamber. Easily .020 over. How much more than that, I do not know. And engine builder would have to make a recommendation on that.

There are also stroker cranks already available from Brian Crower. Have to order them from a place called Sub-Zero performance, or something like that, out of the UAE. That Brian Crower crank was $4k last I checked, and made the engine a 4.3 L

Or have LCE make one for half of the cost. $2200. They use a company that makes one off racing cranks.

Balboa was supposed to have custom sleeve inserts done to his block. Those still left the factory sleeve, bit bored it out for the inserts to fit. Still leaving the open deck. Still allows for top of cylinder wobble too.

The Darton sleeves you see in the picture are what I did/am doing.
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:24 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
The point with these sleeves is that over bored and stroked, you could be up to a 4.6 L.

The full read, if anyone is curious. http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/...ad.php?t=39941
I just read through that whole thread and after the sleeves were complete, nothing else happened. I was really looking forward to Gadget getting his engine built by APR but they sound like a bunch of incompetent jackasses. I can't wait to see either yours or Gadget's engine built up although both seem to be leaning towards a boosted setup...
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:00 PM   #87
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2JZ
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:20 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
I just read through that whole thread and after the sleeves were complete, nothing else happened. I was really looking forward to Gadget getting his engine built by APR but they sound like a bunch of incompetent jackasses. I can't wait to see either yours or Gadget's engine built up although both seem to be leaning towards a boosted setup...
Correct. I am building mine because i am planning to run a lot of power and boost through it. I want it to be "reliable." Thus the sleeves.

However, the point I am trying to make about the sleeves, if someone reeeeeeeally wanted to, they could get the block sleeved and over bore the engine. Increasing displacement and still having a strong cylinder.

The other way would be to just swap in a stroker crank. But leave every thing else relatively the same. As far as internal specs go.

That would be cheaper than rods and pistons, if one only wanted to swap that in, a 'unknown' good amount of power would be picked up from just the stroker crank.

Add to it a UCON for tuning, with its cam gears and lower t-stat. Then you will have an easy and relatively cheap build that should be over 300whp.
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