Most Powerful naturally aspirated 6cyl

Build the 1GR?

- high compression
- ported heads
- race cams
- custom intake manifold
- standalone
- rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted

That should net 250-350whp depends how aggressive your compression is and how high you rev it...

4.0L for six banger is good amount of displacement. If you go larger it will have long ass stroke and you wont be able to rev it as high, if you go smaller it will loose torque...

 

Absolutely correct. For the OP, there hasn't been any posted data on where the cavitation points are for the oil pump and water pump, rpm wise.

Higher rpm will definitely create more high rpm HP. I am having my 1GR sleeved by Darton East right now. Had i not already had a good set of pistons at stock bore, I would have had the cylinders over-bored for larger bore pistons. Piece of cake with new sleeves since they have to bore them to the spec you want.

If you want a stroked crank, LCE can get you one for $2200. Forged. Take about three months to make. (Side note, that is $1k cheaper than my forged knife edge crank. So that is s great price. ) Stroking the crank will give you a lot more torque, across the whole power band. Over sizing the pistons will as well, and HP. But, the side product of increasing the stroke is that your piston speed increase. And if you raise the rev limiter, it makes them even faster. Better get a 15w-50 with a high ZDDP count to protect it.

The stock engine rev limiter has been proven to last (dependable lubrication and cooling) up to 6200 rpms. Stock rods do not like that speed over a few years with boost though. Factory valve train is rated to I believe 6700 rpm, so don't miss shift unless you upgrade to dual springs w/retainers.

With intake, headers, exhaust, cam gears and ECU, on the factory block, one guy made 255whp and 298 wtq. So with a good set of cams like you mentioned as well as a stroked crank added to the list of yours, I think 350 whp would be an easy number to attain.

 

Not gonna fit your budget...

If you have the flow and cams you can....

Building the 1GR will blow your budget quickly! They are not cheap to build and your going to spend a lot of cash for minimal gains..

$5000 is going to do all that? I hope the OP is a good technician..or knows a lot of people.

If your looking for good low end power an inline 6 is usually the way to go, I would suggest looking into options in that realm..

But boy an LS1 would be nice, ask me how I know.

 

OMG what a shame, all that work and he is using an SDS standalone! Boo!

Would be nice running a standalone that was engineered within the last 40 years, lol.

Truck is badass though, just thought it was funny to use an SDS system on such a monster of a truck, those ECUs arent very capable, they do work, but super basic functions ,not like a Haltech or motech where it can do so much more!

Carry on...

 

sucks that the 1gr cant be bored out cause its a sleeved block. but 4.0 displacement is good enough tho

 

wow really?? how reliable is it?? does it have any known cooling issues??

 

LCE has been bored plenty of 1GR's. The most the over bore them is twenty over. .020

From 3.701 to 3.721. They even have pistons listed as such on their website.


Orrrrr just get the block sleeved.


Here are a couple pictures, from one of my blocks, illustrating the sleeve liners of the block.

 

By-product of working with URD.

 

WANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SO MUCH WANT.

 

lol yeah man thats the only performance mod you need! and underglow

 

Whats the deal with that?
Overbore sleeves? If so how much displacement is added, and is there a stroker crank as well to compliment this?

I remember you and Balsby doing something a while back with APR, is that what it is?

 

These are Darton Modular Integrated Deck (M.I.D.) sleeves. Completely replace the factory sleeves. Gadget shipped themone of my spare blocks so that they could cut it apart and get all the necessary measurements to the sleeves. With these, one could have them bored without worry of sacrificing cylinder strength. Obviously. The only question would be how much you could go based off of the combustion chamber. Easily .020 over. How much more than that, I do not know. And engine builder would have to make a recommendation on that.

There are also stroker cranks already available from Brian Crower. Have to order them from a place called Sub-Zero performance, or something like that, out of the UAE. That Brian Crower crank was $4k last I checked, and made the engine a 4.3 L

Or have LCE make one for half of the cost. $2200. They use a company that makes one off racing cranks.

Balboa was supposed to have custom sleeve inserts done to his block. Those still left the factory sleeve, bit bored it out for the inserts to fit. Still leaving the open deck. Still allows for top of cylinder wobble too.

The Darton sleeves you see in the picture are what I did/am doing.

 

The point with these sleeves is that over bored and stroked, you could be up to a 4.6 L.

The full read, if anyone is curious. http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39941

 

I just read through that whole thread and after the sleeves were complete, nothing else happened. I was really looking forward to Gadget getting his engine built by APR but they sound like a bunch of incompetent jackasses. I can't wait to see either yours or Gadget's engine built up although both seem to be leaning towards a boosted setup...

 

2JZ

 

Correct. I am building mine because i am planning to run a lot of power and boost through it. I want it to be "reliable." Thus the sleeves.

However, the point I am trying to make about the sleeves, if someone reeeeeeeally wanted to, they could get the block sleeved and over bore the engine. Increasing displacement and still having a strong cylinder.

The other way would be to just swap in a stroker crank. But leave every thing else relatively the same. As far as internal specs go.

That would be cheaper than rods and pistons, if one only wanted to swap that in, a 'unknown' good amount of power would be picked up from just the stroker crank.

Add to it a UCON for tuning, with its cam gears and lower t-stat. Then you will have an easy and relatively cheap build that should be over 300whp.