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JBA Long Tube Headers Review & Install Instructions

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Old 01-25-2013, 10:16 AM   #42
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I just tightened everything as much as possible.. I didn't get one of the nuts on the drivers side good enough the first time
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:39 PM   #44
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On the stock headers that connect to the y pipe...are the studs on the y pipe or the headers? I cant remnber....but mine are broken and stripped.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:38 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony250f View Post
On the stock headers that connect to the y pipe...are the studs on the y pipe or the headers? I cant remnber....but mine are broken and stripped.
The factory nuts for those studs are locking nuts. They destroy the threads. I was lucky one time. They came off with not much problem. Not the second time. Now I use a regular nut and a lock washer. Trying to remove the stripped studs is a PITA.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:26 AM   #47
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Thank You

What a Good/Inforative post.
Something that is Sadly, way Too Rare on This Site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RedTaco View Post
I pulled the trigger and ordered JBA long tube headers in stainless steel and URD o2 simulator from URD. I wanted to free up the exhaust in order to gain HP and TQ. By looking at the dyno graph there is only power loss below 2.8k rpm. Above 2.8k rpm the headers SHINE! By 3.68 rpm, there is a torque gain of 24WTQ and 17whp! The headers gain 4whp and 12wtq. I was especially intrigued by the gains between 2.8k rpm and 4.2k rpm which i thought could help when towing and getting up to speed or passing.



For the price of $468 I paid shipped from URD for JBA headers, gaskets and o2 simulator, the headers are definitely the best N/A performance mod for the 1GR.

Th JBA headers appear to be good quality. Fit is OK, I was unable to line up the headers with the header support brackets which bolt to the bottom of the header where the header connects to the midpipe.

One thing to be aware of is that the headers come with four holes for the o2 sensors, you will only be using two holes. The headers don't come with plugs for the holes. The plugs have to be ordered online, they are impossible to source locally.

Now for the install instructions. Below are Instructions which came with the headers just for reference. I didn't follow these instructions very closely, because many of the steps are unnecessary.







Now for my instructions;

Tools needed

12mm wrench
12mm socket
3/8 ratchet
14mm socket
14mm wrench
15mm socket
15mm wrench

1, securely jack the truck up and put on jackstands

2, remove front wheels

3, remove mud guards inside wheel wells

4, unplug all oxygen sensors (total of 4)

5, remove Y pipe - two 14mm bolts hold it to the exhaust and four 14mm nuts hold it to headers (two nuts on each exhaust manifold)

6, remove 14mm bolt holding exhaust manifold to brace. Bolt located on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds same spot where the ypipe connects to the exhaust manifold

7, remove nuts holding stock exhaust manifold to the heads of the engine all nuts are accessible through the wheel well (6nuts on each side)

8, remove stock exhaust manifolds, it requires little twisting because the exhaust manifolds get hold up on the brace at the bottom

9, remove brace held by two 14mm bolts on each side, my headers didnt line up with the brace

10, remove old exhaust manifold gaskets

11, install new header gaskets which came with headers

12, instal headers and hand tighten all header nuts (6 on each side)

13, tighten header nuts, work from inside out alternating top to bottom, once all nuts are tight, tighten them again in the same fashion to make sure the nuts are tight and the headers wont leak.

14, re-install Ypipe, use the nuts & bolts which came with the headers. two bolts & nuts per side they are 15mm

15, reinstall ypipe

16, plug in all 4 o2 sensors

17, install URD o2 simulator, i used zip ties to secure its harness and secured the unit to transmission mount

18, re-install wheels

19, safely lower truck & enjoy new headers!

Now for some pictures of my headers;

















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Old 04-24-2013, 10:49 AM   #48
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Talking Which o2 sensors to use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Christianson.USMC View Post
I juat took my JBA long tube headers and DT Y pipe out of the box. There are two O2 sensor bungs on the header and one on the Y pipe on each side,6 bungs total.
I was just going to use the top bung with stock O2 sensor on top of header and block the other and use the URD sim with the stock O2 sensor at the beginning of the Y pipe. Will that work fine/ is there a better way?????
Hi,
Just to make sure I got it the right way. So you mean that I have to install both sensors to the ports near to the Engine block and the plugs to those near to the Y pipe coupler?

How needs the o2 simulator to be wired? To the passenger or to the drivers side sensors?

Thanks a lot,
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:56 AM   #49
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Talking Which o2 sensors to use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Christianson.USMC View Post
I juat took my JBA long tube headers and DT Y pipe out of the box. There are two O2 sensor bungs on the header and one on the Y pipe on each side,6 bungs total.
I was just going to use the top bung with stock O2 sensor on top of header and block the other and use the URD sim with the stock O2 sensor at the beginning of the Y pipe. Will that work fine/ is there a better way?????
Hi,
Just to make sure I got it the right way. So you mean that I have to install both sensors to the ports near to the Engine block and the plugs to those near to the Y pipe coupler?

How needs the o2 simulator to be wired? To the passenger or to the drivers side sensors?

Thanks a lot,
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:13 PM   #50
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If you purchased the O2 simulator from URD, then it is plug n play. No wiring. That is for the rear two sensors.

The front sensors are called WRAF sensors. They go into the holes (actual name is bungs) closest to the engine. Unless, you also purchased the extension harnesses. Which then you would put the WRAF sensors into the collectors of the headers. Right before the Y-pipe.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:20 PM   #52
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Do you have a video of what it sounds like? I want to get some headers but don't want it to sound like a ricer! Ha
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:29 PM   #53
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I have heard that anytime headers are installed. You have to keep going back and tightening the bolts for the headers for the life of the truck? What are the downsides to headers? So lets pretend I am a complete idiot... Could you explain what is going with the o2 sensors? Is it because the cats are gone and the engine needs to be tricked into thinking something is wrong?
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:16 PM   #54
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They are on.... We've just finished installing them and as far as I can see they are awesome. The fitting is just as described and following the directions is easy.
I can hardly notice that sound changed, maybe it's because of the S/C. Now I'll make some tests to feel the improvement.

Oops, I found some trouble with the 02 sim that URD shipped. Everything was ok, but the connectors are DIFFERENT %&*#Q(!@# No MIL on, but I guess that it will light up suddenly when the ECU finds there are no catalytic converters.

Anyone had that problem?
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:45 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toniodiaz View Post
They are on.... We've just finished installing them and as far as I can see they are awesome. The fitting is just as described and following the directions is easy.
I can hardly notice that sound changed, maybe it's because of the S/C. Now I'll make some tests to feel the improvement.

Oops, I found some trouble with the 02 sim that URD shipped. Everything was ok, but the connectors are DIFFERENT %&*#Q(!@# No MIL on, but I guess that it will light up suddenly when the ECU finds there are no catalytic converters.

Anyone had that problem?
They wont connect at all, or have u tried hard enough?

I was on the list of ppl getting the last batch that were made up......fit was snug and u gotta press hard for the "click"......do your ends match up at all?
They are only gunna fit 1 way iirc.

Pics?
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:41 AM   #58
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Talking My mistake

:Frusty: You are right, that was the problem. We were working at the wrong sensors, maybe because of the time at my pal and I finished the job, we did not notice that issue. . You know, by then, and after two long days under my sweet Taco and covered by grease and dirt, all we wanted was to and go to bed. Now all work is done are working awesome. Now the engine revs went back to normal, (they were over 1200rpm at idle w/o the sim) That the only symptom I noticed.

I can't tell there's a noticeable sound increase. Maybe it's the S/C, since it changes radically the engine's sound.

The power gain is great and of course looks incredible, now I'm waiting my TRD cat-back and URD SC pulley to get here.

Thanks a lot you guys,
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:16 AM   #59
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Tor ftw......glad u got it sorted out
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:36 PM   #60
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All the white smoke and smell is the chemicals burning out of all the new pipes and headers from the welding. It should go away after a half an hour or so of constant running.

Remember to re-torque the headers after about 100 miles.

And NO it sounds nothing like a "ricer". Almost like a V8 but not, it's pretty unique sounding IMO. I have DTLT headers, off road Y pipe, and magnaflow system. Sounds best at 3500 plus RPM. Nice tight quiet rumble at idle. Hardly noticeable even without the Cats.
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