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Which CAI would you pick?

View Poll Results: Which would you choose?
AFE 59 52.68%
Volant 23 20.54%
AEM Brute Force 6 5.36%
K&N 77 11 9.82%
Airaid 5 4.46%
K&N 63 7 6.25%
RPB 1 0.89%
Voters: 112. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-24-2013, 03:56 PM   #43
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It's installed!



Sounds mean at wot. I had read it was loud all the time. Not so far, seems the same until I get on it. But I haven't had much time driving yet.

After the install my ABS and a VSC light was on. What the hell does that have to do with disconnecting the battery and maf sensor?

I did the maintenance reset and it's off for now. They did come back at one point but when I started the truck again they were off. Is this normal? Maybe it needs time to reset the cpu?
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:14 PM   #44
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Also wanted to ask of the AFe owners, whats with the insert for the front of the air box? Did ya'll use this? I put it in being that I don't want to get water up into the air box. I just didn't understand why it's made that way?
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:37 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDawgfan View Post
Also wanted to ask of the AFe owners, whats with the insert for the front of the air box? Did ya'll use this? I put it in being that I don't want to get water up into the air box. I just didn't understand why it's made that way?
My experience, and what I seen and felt via ultraguage and the horribly innacurate butt dyno:

Silicone plug "out" the intake : louder (I hated it when passing), NO INCREASE in intake temps registered from ultraguage....I "felt" like I lost some low end grunt.

Silicone plug "in" intake: slightly quieter (ears thanked me)....same intake temps as before (going through same area at same speed within 2 minutes of the pass I did with the plug "out").........I "felt" like I got the low end grunt back (its slight and only off the line, and I may be wrong...I can't PROVE any gains/losses due to no dyno).


What I have heard: ..........with the port open "plug out" the thing causes air to swirl around the intake filter in a kind of cyclone effect. That came from Gadget iirc.

I believe I also seen somewhere (dyno tested it was said) that the port open may bring an additional 5hp....I honestly find this hard to believe.

All said...... I CANNOT SAY FOR CERTAIN THERE ARE ANY GAINS OR LOSES EITHER WAY DUE TO NEVER HAVE BEEN ON A DYNO.
Please understand that....my "thoughts" on the low end grunt are just that, they are not proven and I cannot say the butt dyno is a reliable diagnostic tool at all....that's the problem with subjective claims, and I have zero problem admitting it.

Temp control was done using objective data via ultraguage....I checked temps with port open, port closed, port open WITH WASHER FLUID TANK REMOVED just as comedic value to see if ANY temp changes would happen due to the placement of the port and the resivoir.

While doing said temp checks, I also did testing from the afe vs bone stock....I've put these intakes in a few times and the data was simply abient temps vs intake temps via ultraguage and temp/compass readout........that said, I seen ZERO temp changes from stock to afe....they BOTH draw air from the same exact location which makes ANY claims of cooler air coming in with the afe laughable when I see any posts like that.

When I damn near gave away the afe stage 2 Si, I didn't notice any change when I went back to stock as far as feel or temp changes....just much quieter.

Afe does eliminate some kinks/bends, so there MAY be some benefit there, but it certainly cannot/will not draw air any cooler than stock....its impossible due to the simple fact of its design/location.

Im not bashing any intake here, don't read this post wrong.....as long as ur happy, that's all that matters...its ur money not ours. I just wanted to post my findings since the question was asked about the "plug" deal on the afe.

I apologize for any typos.....I just woke up and im on my phone

~brock
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:13 AM   #46
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Wow, thanks for all the input. So far my Ultragauge not only hasn't showed any lower temps, it's actually been a bit higher. But yesterday was a warmer day than we've been having lately.

As far as being "your money" I won this unit from the Autoanything thread so no big deal for me there. But after what I've seen so far I wouldn't go out a spend the $350 for it.

I'm running a stock exhaust. It's always been my understanding that you need both together to benefit more from the both of them. More air in, need more air out. May do an exhaust later. Not sure yet.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:31 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDawgfan View Post
Wow, thanks for all the input. So far my Ultragauge not only hasn't showed any lower temps, it's actually been a bit higher. But yesterday was a warmer day than we've been having lately.

As far as being "your money" I won this unit from the Autoanything thread so no big deal for me there. But after what I've seen so far I wouldn't go out a spend the $350 for it.

I'm running a stock exhaust. It's always been my understanding that you need both together to benefit more from the both of them. More air in, need more air out. May do an exhaust later. Not sure yet.
Lol b careful it starts out like this......

Then u get the want for headers, y pipe, and an exhaust

Then u go to electronic goods.....

Say goodbye to ur wallet.

Enjoy the trip tho!

I'm off to bed......

Keep in mind, at 45+ u should see intake temps that are same as ambient, whether stock or afe......u gotta move at more than a 25mph city speed tho iirc.......i have had urd for a few yrs sorry....watch ur speed and how it correlates to temp drops.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:31 AM   #48
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FWIW, the XR guys have tested intake air temps, and see the best intake temps from use of a Volant scoop.

The oem intake may be cold air in theory, but in use it does pick up some amount of heated air from the road below the fenderwell, but more importantly any air exhausting the hot engine compartment does enter the fenderwell.

The coldest intake air is often the air forward of the radiator similar to a URD setup or the intermediate Volant scoop with the CAI oem fenderwell intake port capped.

PK
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:30 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoDawgfan View Post
It's installed!



Sounds mean at wot. I had read it was loud all the time. Not so far, seems the same until I get on it. But I haven't had much time driving yet.

After the install my ABS and a VSC light was on. What the hell does that have to do with disconnecting the battery and maf sensor?

I did the maintenance reset and it's off for now. They did come back at one point but when I started the truck again they were off. Is this normal? Maybe it needs time to reset the cpu?
Looks good. As for the lights, how long did you have the battery disconnected? I just installed a volant myself and when I first started the truck I had forgotten to disconnect the battery. It was idling pretty rough and unevenly, so I left the battery disconnected for 30 minutes. That fixed the rough idle and I haven't gotten any lights of any sort for the first 50 miles of driving.

As for the higher intake temps, are you sure everything is sealed up correctly? When I first got the volant installed I hadn't sealed the fender opening well and it was drawing in air from the engine compartment. I used some weather stripping around the opening to seal it up and now it's about 5 degrees higher than ambient, which is a little lower than what I was seeing with stock.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:40 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK View Post
FWIW, the UR guys have tested intake air temps, and see the best intake temps from use of a Volant scoop.

The oem intake may be cold air in theory, but in use it does pick up some amount of heated air from the road below the fenderwell, but more importantly any air exhausting the hot engine compartment does enter the fenderwell.

The coldest intake air is often the air forward of the radiator similar to a URD setup or the intermediate Volant scoop with the CAI oem fenderwell intake port capped.

PK


Lost me.......if bone stock can draw ambient temps measured with ultraguage or scanguage, then how can the volant skewp possibly draw cooler air than that?

Ambient is ambient right?

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Old 02-25-2013, 06:43 AM   #51
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AFE
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:00 AM   #52
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uum, you do realize that the stock intake system is a Cold Air Intake?
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:12 AM   #53
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What's that got to do with anything? The OP got one for free, why be a d**k about it?
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:51 AM   #54
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I'm not being a dick, the stock system is a cai.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:18 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus View Post
Lost me.......if bone stock can draw ambient temps measured with ultraguage or scanguage, then how can the volant skewp possibly draw cooler air than that?

Ambient is ambient right?

There are several documented results where it seems the OEM cold air intake is not so cold after all. Nothing I have read, except your quote above indicates that the oem intake can match ambient. The closest match is systems pulling air from in front of the radiator.

I noticed fairly respectable drops from removing any inlet air at the fender and grabbed air forward of the radiator.

Just saying, the fenderwell picks up radiated heat from the road, and engine compartment heated air bleeding out into the fenderwells.

So in this case, the factory CAI is better than some installs but can be better to gain lower inlet temps.

XR underground deals with this a bunch in many topics / posts. Since a lot of the XR's are supercharged, they try to get the inlet air as cool as practical. Most see double digit temp drops, with faster temp drops after a long idle.

PK
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:20 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK View Post
There are several documented results where it seems the OEM cold air intake is not so cold after all. Nothing I have read, except your quote above indicates that the oem intake can match ambient. The closest match is systems pulling air from in front of the radiator.

I noticed fairly respectable drops from removing any inlet air at the fender and grabbed air forward of the radiator.

Just saying, the fenderwell picks up radiated heat from the road, and engine compartment heated air bleeding out into the fenderwells.

So in this case, the factory CAI is better than some installs but can be better to gain lower inlet temps.

XR underground deals with this a bunch in many topics / posts. Since a lot of the XR's are supercharged, they try to get the inlet air as cool as practical. Most see double digit temp drops, with faster temp drops after a long idle.

PK

Why not run a bigger then needed air-air inner cooler ( secondary)? Are they really running that much boost? Radiation from the road?? I'm assuming you mean while the vehicle is at rest?
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:24 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCaltaco65 View Post
Why not run a bigger then needed air-air inner cooler ( secondary)? Are they really running that much boost? Radiation from the road?? I'm assuming you mean while the vehicle is at rest?

At rest it is obvious with the temp increasing.

Even my own truck saw reduced temps while moving just by changing to the scoop.

Some of these guys are getting respectable PSI from the superchargers via different pulleys. These are trucks with 400 or so HP. The higher inlet temp have caused some concerns on some trucks.

Maybe it's just semantics of words, yes the Tacoma does have a CAI from the factory, unfortunately it also pulls in warm engine compartment air, heated brake air and radiant heat from the road along with the cold air.

PK
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:02 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingston73 View Post
Looks good. As for the lights, how long did you have the battery disconnected? I just installed a volant myself and when I first started the truck I had forgotten to disconnect the battery. It was idling pretty rough and unevenly, so I left the battery disconnected for 30 minutes. That fixed the rough idle and I haven't gotten any lights of any sort for the first 50 miles of driving.

As for the higher intake temps, are you sure everything is sealed up correctly? When I first got the volant installed I hadn't sealed the fender opening well and it was drawing in air from the engine compartment. I used some weather stripping around the opening to seal it up and now it's about 5 degrees higher than ambient, which is a little lower than what I was seeing with stock.
I guess it's still reading the same temps as before the CAI. Seemed high at one point but today it seemed about normal. I did seal it up good, that is the reason it took me longer than it should have to install. That damn seal that goes on the air box to seal it to the hole from the oem was a pita. That thing wouldn't stay in place for me to put the box in. After taking a break to get on the computer to see if there was any info about this that would help but found nothing. Went back out and kept fighting it and it finally set in place for me. But I was sure to make it seal up, I wanted it done right. And I also seem to be seeing a +5 temp which is slightly lower than stock, was seeing about +6 for the most part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCaltaco65 View Post
uum, you do realize that the stock intake system is a Cold Air Intake?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingston73 View Post
What's that got to do with anything? The OP got one for free, why be a d**k about it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCaltaco65 View Post
I'm not being a dick, the stock system is a cai.
This didn't bother me, I wasn't really planning a cai myself. If I hadn't won it I probably wouldn't buy one. At least if I did it would be down the road as I have much more I'd rather spend the money on.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:22 PM   #59
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im working on getting the before and after pics of my intake up, and the dyno sheet. i yielded 9.63 HP and 11.27 TQ to be exact lol. the sound is amazing. more of the power comes around 3200-3600 rpm. but you can def feel the little extra power, nothing to crazy though. the install is def a pain in the ass. a lot of re-locating i.e. airpump, power steering fluid. very good quality parts. it looks to me they did put a lot of attention into it. fitment is perfect once you re-locating is done. the only problem i ran into was it did through a check engine light after install. and i found out it was because, when your connecting the airpump extension wires make sure you have a solid good connection. i didnt, and it threw a code. but i redid that, and reset my ecu and so far no code.

any other questions just ask.

I think Airaid is the way to go. Its what I have on my tundra and will be getting it for my new tacoma!
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:14 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK View Post
There are several documented results where it seems the OEM cold air intake is not so cold after all. Nothing I have read, except your quote above indicates that the oem intake can match ambient. The closest match is systems pulling air from in front of the radiator.

I noticed fairly respectable drops from removing any inlet air at the fender and grabbed air forward of the radiator.

Just saying, the fenderwell picks up radiated heat from the road, and engine compartment heated air bleeding out into the fenderwells.

So in this case, the factory CAI is better than some installs but can be better to gain lower inlet temps.

XR underground deals with this a bunch in many topics / posts. Since a lot of the XR's are supercharged, they try to get the inlet air as cool as practical. Most see double digit temp drops, with faster temp drops after a long idle.

PK
Interesting. My experience has been that there was only about a 5-6 degree difference between the stock setup and the the URD (which was the coldest I've seen).

My setups, all measured after moving at least 40-50mph for a few minutes to cool and stabilize the IAT readings, readings between the SG IAT temp and the ambient temp from the O/H console:
  • Stock: +5-6 degrees
  • Volant scoop plumbed into stock airbox: same as stock, +5-6 degrees
  • aFe Stage II SI: +3-4 degrees
  • URD: +0-1
Anyway, from my experience the temp diffs from stock to URD are only about 6 degrees. IMHO, hardly worth the discussion for a NA setup.
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