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Cold / Hot Air Intake, Stock, and Snorkel Test Results

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Old 03-11-2013, 11:10 PM   #1
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Cold / Hot Air Intake, Stock, and Snorkel Test Results

So with all of the Cold air intake is really hot air intake, and stock is better, but what about a snorkel talk. I decided to do some testing of my own. My first mod on my truck was putting a KnN FIPK on my truck, and I was completely satisfied 85k miles later. But now am back to the stock intake to save for a Safari Snorkel. So before I took the FIPK off, I wanted to see just how much hot or cold air I was getting. If you look at the pictures of my scanner, you will see IAT is Inlet Air Temp, MAF is Mass Air Flow, TPS is Throttle Position Sensor, and the rest are self explanatory. I took in to account a few factors involved such as Ambient Temp and Humidity.

So for the first test, the KnN FIPK on a 4.0L , I had an outside temp of 51*f and a relative humidity of 68%, per accuweather.com

With engine idling at operating temp


After driving for 5 minutes


The second test, stock intake, with Toyota filter, on a 4.0L, I had an outside temp of 57*f and relative humidity of 50%, per accuweather

With engine idling at operating temp


After driving for 5 minutes



When I finally get a snorkel and install it, I will do the same test and post. In the mean time, I would like to broaden my test to other applications as well, such as different brand intakes, filters, model trucks or cars, and see what we come up with. So if you have the capability to perform such a test, then I would like to see what you got. Or if you are near me, I would like to do this on your vehicle. From my results, it looks like at idle, the stock intake is slightly cooler, but once the vehicle was moving, there was not too much of a difference.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:15 PM   #2
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:31 PM   #5
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:43 PM   #6
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Great info! Excited to see it with the snorkel
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:59 PM   #7
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:29 AM   #8
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One thing to keep in mind is that a standing idling reading isn't really going to give you much info as there are too many variables when idling, as in; was the engine completely warmed up prior to idling, are you parked facing the sun, or in the shade, etc., etc. Only valid test without a whole bunch of measuring equipment is a moving IAT reading after the temp has stabilized.

FYI, I've run a few intake combos are have the following data for you:

o stock and stock with a Volant scoop plumbed into stock airbox: IAT temp = ambient + 5-6 degrees
o aFe Stage II SI (dry filter if you care): IAT temp = ambient + 3-4 degrees
o URD CAI: IAT temp = ambient + 0-1 degrees

The temp differences were read with the OH Console temp gauge and a Scangauge.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurkin View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that a standing idling reading isn't really going to give you much info as there are too many variables when idling, as in; was the engine completely warmed up prior to idling, are you parked facing the sun, or in the shade, etc., etc. Only valid test without a whole bunch of measuring equipment is a moving IAT reading after the temp has stabilized.

FYI, I've run a few intake combos are have the following data for you:

o stock and stock with a Volant scoop plumbed into stock airbox: IAT temp = ambient + 5-6 degrees
o aFe Stage II SI (dry filter if you care): IAT temp = ambient + 3-4 degrees
o URD CAI: IAT temp = ambient + 0-1 degrees

The temp differences were read with the OH Console temp gauge and a Scangauge.
Good work, and thanks for the info. I was idling my engine for 15 minutes to get it to operating temp, and to get the best test results. It was also in the shadow of my house, so no sun beating down on it.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lurkin View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that a standing idling reading isn't really going to give you much info as there are too many variables when idling, as in; was the engine completely warmed up prior to idling, are you parked facing the sun, or in the shade, etc., etc. Only valid test without a whole bunch of measuring equipment is a moving IAT reading after the temp has stabilized.

FYI, I've run a few intake combos are have the following data for you:

o stock and stock with a Volant scoop plumbed into stock airbox: IAT temp = ambient + 5-6 degrees
o aFe Stage II SI (dry filter if you care): IAT temp = ambient + 3-4 degrees
o URD CAI: IAT temp = ambient + 0-1 degrees

The temp differences were read with the OH Console temp gauge and a Scangauge.
FWIW, I did reset the scangage to indicate IAT. With the Volant scoop and CAI, compared to the overhead display, after driving not in traffic but things stabilize quickly, it shows typically 2>3 degrees above ambient.

I need to get the URD MAF spliced in. see if it does make much difference in Closed Loop or not. I'm guessing that it will just help trim the ECU to midpoints, Gadget says it helps but I just can't see how. Open Loop sure, Closed, I hope so.

PK
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:27 AM   #11
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While at 45mph or so, I've seen zero change in temps from the afe stage 2 Si, urd tcai, and the stock setup.

Buy em for noise, buy em for less bends in the piping, buy em for looks, whatever ya want......but don't expect any (or as this thread shows minimal) intake temp changes...

When u can pull ambient intake temps bone stock, it only makes sense that no "cold air intake" can pull colder air.....ambient is ambient is ambient......................unless u wanna go old school and make an ice box mod.
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