Hestitation Issue - 2011 Tacoma w/TRD Supercharger

ok i am listening, trust me i would love to have that exact same intake you have. interesting video but what i don't understand is
where did that short black tube come from? was it cut off the end of the intake??
i understand the tube was blocking the PCV vent and the vacuum line, how did that cause a lean condition? the vacuum hose they speak of goes to a fuel diaphragm, are they talking about the fuel pressure regulator? that vacuum line should be attached to the manifold not before the TB so if it's not the FPR what does that vacuum line go to?

have you run your truck with the stock air box? were you able to tell any difference?

 

I think somebody here knows the problem...

And yes the intake doesn't matter as long as it isn't throwing MAF codes which the TRD ones don't. Yes Toyota (TRD) say it won't work...but it works just fine...many people are running CAI's with smaller pulleys and they should have an upgraded fuel pump to help them out...the OEM fuel pump is garbage on the tacoma...complete garbage.

 

i think i can safety go to the smaller pulley considering i live at 6500 feet ASL i am already 3psi shy of sea level pressure. but ill have to machine the snout of the SC to use the smaller pulley.

 

Machining isn't necessary fot the 2.85" pulley. Only the 2.7 or smaller.

 

correct, and since you've obviously been there, how much boost will that give you over stock? i was told (or i read) that the 2.85 was supposed to be about a .5-1 lb increase which for me seemed to make no difference whatsoever. the most boost i see when the density altitude is low is about 6 lbs (relative) most the time it's more like 5.5
when I went to AZ and was at sea level i got about 6.5 lbs
i would really like to see about 9 lbs at my elevation so that means i need another 3 from where i am now. what do you think it will take to get there?
i was hoping i could get one of the NST overdrive pulleys but they don't make them anymore, i like the idea of a bolt on solution so if i plan to go back to seal level i can swap out for a lower boost pulley.

also, if you go with the smaller pulley and machine the snout is it still possible to get a puller behind the pulley to remove it?

you may have noticed i posted in another thread about getting swappable pulleys. i have not had the time to follow up with the company to see whats going on with those but that is another solution i am looking into because obviously it makes no sense to have to press on and off pulleys every time i need to change one.

 

URD has a machining tool for purchase. Very simple to use.

The 2.8 averages around 8 psi. Depending. 2.7 will get you ~9. Then you also have the 2.55. For those that like to go big or go home.

You can do the 2.7 with the FPR mod, and no additional tuning. AS LONG AS YOU HAVE A FUEL PUMP, and AFR GAUGE to watch monitor the AFR's.

It has been tested and proven by a member who drift races. Tested and reliable. Anything more, and the TRD injectors will be maxed out, even with the FPR mod. Once they are maxed out, you will need a aftermarket EMS.

AEM V2 (www.dezod.com), Haltech, or ProEFI

 

Just to clarify, that is in fact a fuel diaphragm, I believe Toyota calls is a fuel rail dampener. It reduces the vibration from the fuel pulsing from the injectors IIRC. The fuel pressure regulator that you mentioned is actually in the fuel tank on the fuel sending unit. I had to replace on years ago for a vibration/noise.

 

The piece at the end of the passenger side of the fuel rail, is the fuel pressure regulator.

The damper is on the driver side.

On N/A, and S/C, following the factory directions, a vacuum hose routes off a nipple on the intake, to the nipple on the FPR.

Which is not like it is in the picture which I posted. This routing is if you want to do the FPR mod.

Listed here >>> http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50532

 

I stand corrected. You are correct, I just verified with my parts guy. I forgot about the one on the drivers side.

 

All good mate. Sharing the knowledge.

 

And we all appreciate that, I am certainly not against admitting I am wrong. It happens.

 

question...after machining the snout for a smaller pulley, is it still possible to switch back to the stock pulley/2.8" for what ever reasons?

 

Yes. There will be no problem going to larger pulleys once the snout has been machined.

Only thing, is that in most cases, removing a pulley will damage it.

 

Torospd, given my altitude do you think my argument is valid? sounds like a 2.7 will work, and i don't know how i would get anywhere near 9psi with the 2.7 i cant even get past 7psi at sealevel with the 2.85.

anyway, as i suspected i don't like the idea of pressing pulleys on and off as frequently as ill need to swap them for my location.

i need to get the ball roiling on those swappable pulleys because they could easily make one in any size once the hub is installed. then swap out is easy as pie and takes only a few minutes.

so your saying i could safely get away with the 2.7 if i did the fuel pressure mod? even at sea level? i have a 2009 and i am on the TRD SC reflash.
i doubt seriously ill come close to the fuel demands with a 2.7 pulley up here and based on the lack of boost i get here i half think i could go to the 2.55 without any problems as i am only getting 6 psi on a good day with the 2.8

also is there any chance you would be willing to sell at a discounted price your snout cutter? seems stupid to buy a new one and i am guessing youll never need it again after your snout has been cut.

 

if youre planning on staying on the reflash, id say make sure you can keep up with the fuel demands of the 2.7 first before even attempting the 2.5. its not the specific psi that you should be making your choices on, it should be afr.

thats why i asked the question about swapping back to bigger pulleys...just incase the reflash plus other mods cant keep up with the 2.5 demands you could always swap back.

 

You need to be careful the way you keep talking about the elevation. Our fuel here is also lower octane to offset the thinner air and in addition you don't want to run a vehicle on the ragged edge at elevation because then what happens if you want to drive it to a lower elevation? The 2.825" (and subsequently the 2.85" stealth) pulley is a good increase in performance while maintaining a margin of safety. The difference between the two pulleys you're talking about is only about 10hp and that's at the crank. Will you feel a difference? Probably but it won't be huge. Is it worth all the added danger you'll incur from running on the ragged edge? No way. If yo're not going to to what is required for each step then don't push it. To me, the 2.828"/2.85" pulleys are the logical step for those who don't want to invest a lot of time and money. You buy a $150 pulley and a $50 tool and swap them out one afternoon. Done. The gains of 15-20hp for that investment of time & money is a great return on investment. The next step to a 2.7" will require the same $200ish investment and same amount of time but in addition you're going to spend 2x the money and time for maybe another 10hp. Your gains are very diminishing on that investment and IMO it's just not worth it on a truck of this size, weight & gearing. 10hp on a 2nd gen Tacoma is NOT 10hp on a little Honda Civic as you won't feel it as much. I also am not willing to permanently modify my supercharger for another 10hp gain and am already risking my factory warranty just running the stealth 2.85" pulley. I also don't see swapping pulleys back and forth regularly as an option. I want to give my truck just a tad more oomph while maintaining the famous reliability.

That's my $0.08 anyway adjust for inflation so take it for what it's worth.

 

i hear what your saying, but the fact is the 2.8 pulley netted me 10 hp a total waste of money!
what i can tell you is with the 2.8 pulley i had no issues with fuel when i went to AZ and towed a trailer with a sand rail weighing about 9,000 and was boosting almost the entire way to glamis without issue.

we are nearly -3PSI MAP less pressure here verses seal level. this means if people running the stock setup or in my case with the 2.8 without issue we can add those 3 PSI back at this elevation and the truck wont know the difference. i have discussed this at length with 2 tuners at this elevation.
but my game plan is to buy the swappable pulleys, monitor the AFR (i have a wide band o2 installed) i can also monitor EGT at the cats and every other engine parameter with my ultra gauge.

if i have a problem i have absolutely no intention of bringing my truck to the dealer for a warranty repair. i intend to find out how small of a pulley can be used here and then go up 1 size and call it good.
also the swappable pulley comes in 2.5,2.6,2.7,2.8 i think the 2.6 is as small as I would be willing to go, not quite 2.55 but smaller than a 2.7
to be honest i don't full boost very often, if i did it's only to get up to the speed limit.

and actually our fuel is the same octane as at lower elevations, they do put 10% methanol but the fact is because we have less pressure here with or without a SC we have less pressure by 3 psi, therefore even though the mechanical compression ratio doesn't change the effective compression ratio is also lower by about 25%. so 91 octane is not as necessary here as it is at sea level. although my Acura TL pings like a mother if you don't fill with 91 oct.
i run the 91 in the taco and have never had any problems.

also my corvette Z06 will not run very well without 91 it not only pings but it flat out sputters! also the stock compression ratio of the taco is no where near as high as my other mentioned vehicles and is less prone to pre detonation even boosted.

 

I do not have a snout machining tool, as I do not have a s/c

 

damn you would think i already knew that as i read all your threads weeks ago about your turbo setup.

well does anyone here have one they might like to sell?

 

Lol. Brain fart.