cam shafts for 2nd gen?

So if I read correctly, these
http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/1g4ca.html
are for the 2nd gen 4.0L? Anybody have any experience with this kind of performance. My goal this summer is s/c, headers and Y pipe, fuel pump and I already have an intake. Is it worth the money and I'm guessing cams mean other things need to be replaced? So many questions, want to learn, PLEASE HELP ME!

 

I'd want some numbers to compare them to stock. You might be buying a very mild cam and wasting $$$. Call and ask for the duration and lift numbers. I'm kinda curious about these too

 

Kelford Cams makes new cams for our engine. A diligent person might be able to find a way to get them.

They cost a little less than those in the link.

Web Camshafts also does cams. They use your cams, to make a "new" cam profiles of your choice.

 

I would go with a medium cam upgrade. I don't know what cam specs are on your but on the jz series the only cam options before you have to mod the head are 264 8.8lift and 272 9.0mm lift. The 272 is border line out flowing stock head. Anytime you go more boost I recommend valve spring upgrade new seals (since its spart) I'd port the head just to reduce turbulence take a piece of sandpaper around edge of combustion chamber on head to make sure there isn't a rough casting edge (can cause detonation) arp head studs new head gasket. Then a good tune that little bit of work could make a huge difference.

 

have you or anyone bought cams yet. i am interested in getting some kind of group for cams and valve springs, i want to go the na route but shouldnt matter in the ordering process. any extra info or takers would be greatly appreciated. also ttc performance has a performance PNP'ed head with your choice of cam profile. really want to get the ball rolling.

 

curious as to any info on getting a group buy started not to sure other then posting a thread. i see you around the site on alot of threads any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

www.LCEperformance.com

Probably have better luck getting a GB through them than TTC.

 

If you're running mild boost with stock cams and stock rev limit, there's no need for different springs. Same goes for head studs. You don't need stronger head studs with mild boost, unless the stock studs are weak crap ones.

 

I can't find it on there web page. Do you have a link?

 

Torque to yield bolts is what the OEM 1GR uses. One and done.

 

I don't care how he does it, it don't bother me if he puts a 800 lift cam with stock springs.I'm just here to give advice the way I do mine y risk valve float or headgasket lift when you'll already have most of the top end apart.

 

If he want to go more extreme it'll be ready (assuming the the new valve rate is for the cam he choose) all he'll have to do is cut up boost and comphensate a/f

 

Yup, if you are in there, you have to pull the timing cover to remove the intake cams. You have to drain all fluids to do that. So since one is there, at least install ARP head studs. www.dezod.com has the best price on those.

Just need a tripple square socket to remove the factory head bolts.

 

The answer to my question! was wondering what socket i needed. You are quite the life saver tor Search button is awesome!

 

Sb'd

 

I think its the 12mm

 

Lolololol.

 

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