Here's a quick rundown on how I did it on my 2010:
Start by removing the two breather hoses on the side of the intake tube of the supercharger. On my truck, one of these had a clamp, and the other did not. Make sure you pay attention to which hose was attached to which port.
Next, remove the clamp on the front hose of the valve that sits above the front coil pack. It looks like a small cylinder with a hose coming out either end Once that hose is removed, you can bring the valve back around the other hoses (which I believe are fuel lines, there are two of these attached to hardlines coming up the driver side fender on the inside. I did not remove them, I would not recommend removing them as fuel will most likely leak out.) Move the valve and its attached hose down out-of-the-way.
Next, remove the bracket holding the hose that's attached to the value just removed from the oil fill tube. This bracket was attached with the 10 mm nut on my vehicle. Once you remove the nut, you can lift the bracket up and off of the stud, bring it forward enough to allow you to release the clip on the coil pack for the first cylinder.
Next, remove the upper and lower bolts of the brace supporting the supercharger and remove that black brace. The brace I am referring to is in between the second and third coil pack.
There is another breather hose attached to the bottom of the intake tube of the supercharger, which goes over to the intake manifold area. You need to remove this hose as well in order to access the third coil pack on the drivers. They are simple squeeze clamps you can use your hands to loosen and then slide the hose off of the ports.
Once you have removed the hoses and the bracket, you should be able to push the fuel line hoses down and out-of-the-way in order to access the 10 mm bolts holding the coil packs on. With the bolts removed, you will have enough room to lift the coil pack up and out of the spark plug hole. It's a little tight, but there is just enough room to slide them out against the bottom edge of the supercharger.
Plugs in my truck on the driver side or really well stuck in there. The next issue you will come across, is that there is not enough room to move the ratchet handle when you are inside that area working. I use the snap on ratchet to do this because the gearing is much smaller and the more precise inside the rachet head, and when you move the ratchet very slightly you move it more clicks than you would with something like a serious rachet which has much larger detents in the ratchet mechanism. On the very first plug I used my 1/2" drive spark plug socket, 1/2" to 3/8" inch adapter, a 3 inch 3/8 drive extension a swivel, and a foot-long extension to the ratchet up beside the supercharger in order to get enough torque to break the spark plug loose as there was not enough room to move the ratchet inside. Once you cracked the spark plug loose, I removed the swivel, and the foot-long extension and used the short 3/8 inch swivel ratchet I had to remove the plug. Once the plug is completely loose, remove the ratchet and remove the extension and the socket and the plug as one.
On the middle cylinder, I was able to use the standard size ratchet underneath the supercharger with two 3/8" extensions as there was just enough room to move the ratchet handle to break the plug loose. As before, once the spark plug has been broken loose, you can use the single 3" extension and the small swivel ratchet to remove the spark plug from the cylinder head. Once it is loose remove the ratchet from the extension, and remove the extension socket and spark plug as one.
The third and the farthest back cylinder was one of the most difficult to get the coil pack out, but it will just fit out without removing the supercharger. As with the other two breakfasts fuck plug loose with 23 inch extensions and the standard size ratchet, then use a single 3 inch extension and the small swivel ratchet to fully loosen the spark plug, then remove the smaller ratchet, and remove the spark plug socket and 3 inch extension as one.
Be sure you use anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs, I was able to spin them in by hand because I used the 1/2" adapter and the single 3/8" 3 inch extension. I did this because when the spark plug is screwed all the way in you still have about three quarters of an inch of socket extension above the valve cover in order to turn it by hand.
Once you have the plugs changed, install the hoses and brackets in the reverse order of removal. Hopefully this helps out some people who are having difficulty in this area. If you have any questions feel free to PM me