TRD S/C + URD 7th Injector = ??AFR??

Also, I pulled this. Notice how the injector fell off. It only did this one during a pull, but as soon as that injector quit firing, AFR skyrocketed. My only thing, I'm not sure what Injector A and what Injector B are and which one is actually the injector. Those 2 lines don't really make any sense.

 

You would know if you are getting pinging. Generally the 5VZ will ping at low RPM's/high output (accelerating in 4th gear). If you are getting this, I would try to retard timing at those RPM's. You will lose power, but better than loosing a connecting rod.

More can be read on the knock sensor, pinging, and timing here:

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/ecu-timing-map-10017/

 

I have the stock tensioner pulley. It's smooth.

You have your tune set on 3 cylinder, 2 cycle, right? The 5vz can't be set on 6 cylinder. Just a thought.

I have the base map that gadget sent me if you need it to start fresh, and there's a fairly decent map on the split second website for the 5vz that you could check out.

I don't ping at 12 AFR, but 13 I do. I'm going for 11.5 to be safe.

 

Good read. I'll listen more carefully and I'll adjust the timing a little bit and see if it helps.

3 Cylinder to 2 Stroke under engine settings.

Vacuum Pressure / Additional Injector on System Settings

PWM Mode: Pressure 0 to 30 Psi /3 vdc FS
Output A Mode: Aux Fuel pump with abortive start time
Output B Mode: Over Pressure
Output C Mode: Inj A and B over /latched

Over RPM: 6000
Over Pressure: 1.4 (Gadget had me change this one) Can't remember what the stock one was
Over INJ %: 90
Fuel Pump start Pressure PSI: -1
Fuel Pump run time: 3
Fuel Pump startup time: 120

Do these numbers match yours in your settings?

Also, if you would, would you email your stock URD tune along with your tune as it sits now. I wanna compare it to mine and see what I might need to change.

You can email it to caseycrawford1985@gmail.com

Thanks

 

Email sent!

I worked on my tune some this morning and it runs pretty good now. I can hit the full 9.5psi of boost and and am 11.5 or lower. It takes a lot of fine tuning! It is nowhere near perfect, and part of my problem is I have the older AFR calibrator that isn't tunable. I might need to get a new one if I want to get rid of the high gear/ low rpm ping. I've tried timing and fuel, but can't overcome the closed loop hatred.

 

Got it. After looking at yours, if that's all the trim you needed on the fuel side, then I have an issue somewhere. Because i'm having to add WAY more than that and still don't have the AFR you do.

I ordered the tuneable AFR calibrator, so when i get back to work on the 10th I'll see about getting it installed and then I can do some closed loop tuning and see if that helps.

I'm considering replacing the injectors, or at least having them cleaned. I'm beginning to think that a couple of my injectors aren't spraying enough fuel to help the 7th under boost because i've had to turn my 7th way up and still don't have a rich enough mixture.

 

I might even trim mine back some. At high rpm I can bottom out my wideband gauge at 10.0. Mid range I'm running great.

 

I'm fixing to have to do some investigating. I need to get a fuel pressure gauge to make sure that my fuel pump is supplying the fuel injectors correctly. and if it's not, then i'll start looking into the fuel injectors. If i'm having to add as much fuel as i am, then i'm obviously having a problem somewhere.

 

How many miles do you have on your truck, and when is the last time that you changed your fuel filter?

Also, have you upgraded the fuel pump already?

 

I don’tthink it’s the injectors but having them cleaned is a good idea. Should beabout $10 per injector which is much cheaper than new injectors. If you wantnew injectors, don’t get anything too big as they can be hard to tune for idleand low speed driving (and will probably require a piggy back tuner).

Tokensolutions.net has two nice kits for the 5VZ. 420cc injectors is kind of high for this engine but should be ok. Anything higher and you will have difficulty tuning the fuel delivery for idle and low speeds without a proper standalone or piggyback ECU.

Injectors: http://www.tokensolutions.net/lexus...700-750-1000-and-1300cc-injectors-set-of-six/

Turbo Fuel upgrade kit: http://www.tokensolutions.net/products/TS-Toyota-5VZ%252dFE-Supercharger-and-turbo-management-kit.html

Also recomend these if you haven't already upgraded your spark plugs:
http://www.tokensolutions.net/denso-iridium-one-step-colder-ik20-2jzge-two-step-5vzfe/

If you can't afford Iridium plugs, these are cheaper and still two steps colder than stock: http://www.tokensolutions.net/denso-copper-tripple-ground-one-step-colder-2j-two-steps-5vzfe/

Your primariesare probably being trimmed as I mentioned before. For themost part, your 7th only fires in open look and the AFR readings shouldn't affectthe ECU but as mentioned before, ina higher gear, you can start seeing boost, and subsequently the 7th will startfiring, while in closed loop. I’m still convinced you just need the AFR tunerto fix your issue.

I am pretty concerned with that drop in fuel pressure on the graph above and not too surewhat would cause that drop. If you haven't done so already, disconnect the negterminal for a few minutes to reset your ECU and it will remove any fuelinjector trims. Run that test again and see if reseting the ECU makes a difference. If the primaries injectors stop dropping off and fire correctly,that would suggest they were being trimmed by the ECU due to the AFR readingsfrom the 7th injector.

On the TRDblower and proper AFR, HERE is a goodread on the TRD charger and how hot your intake temps can get. Remember, whenyou are raising your AFR, its not to burn more fuel (you are still burning the~14.7 ratio fuel mixture) but rather the extra fuel acts as a heat soak to keepcombustion temps down and inevitably pass through un-combusted. As you up theTRD's RPM's with new pulleys, etc..., you are getting diminishing returns asmost of the extra boost is due to hotter air vice extra air mass. This is whyit is so important you get proper AFR settings on the TRD blower. This is also why the 2.0" pulley generally needs a water/meth kit to run safely.

On Water/Meth kits: Highly recomended. These can help improve MPG's as you wouldn't have to run so rich (the water/meth are much better heatsoaks than fuel) and generally you can remove most, if not all timing retard for better power due to lower combustion temps.

I would also recomend an upgarde to your engine cooling (at least get the TRD raidiator cap) to help cool the engine more efficiently which can help reduce combustion temps.

 

Once I figure out how to hook up my water/meth kit, I will have that and a 170 degree thermostat. Haven't put either on yet, but they are here collecting dust.

 

The 170 thermostat is a good start but it doesn't help with the cooling efficiency of you system. If you run the truck hard, it will heat up well past 170. The thermostat just makes the fan come on sooner.

I recomend a higher bar radiator cap as well. The TRD cap is a bit over priced but you can sometimes find some for a reasonable price. Otherwise, any 1.3 BAR (18.5 PSI) radiator cap will work (dont go cheap. If you get anything off ebay, make sure its not from China). By increasing the radiator internal pressure, the water boiling point will raise which will increase its cooling efficiency. Otherwise, the best thing to do is get a bigger/more efficient radiator/fan combo.

 

Thanks for the tip. I plan to do dual electric fans one day, but right now I will settle for the cap. I was going to get the TRD one but didn't feel like forking over $40 not knowing what it would do besides look cool. Now I see it's worth it.

 

I wouldnt, lots of $$$ for little to no gain.

Remember, the current fan takes power directly from the engine. The electric fan is also powered by the engine, but the energy has to first be transfered from mechanical to electrical (through the alternator - losses efficiency) and then transfered from electrical back to mechanical (via the electric fan motor - losses more efficiency). Unless the electric fan blade design is more efficient than the current fan design (I believe it's actually less), enough to match or overcome the energy lost in the electrical/mechanical conversions, its not worth it. Unless you plan on doing deep water forging and need the option to turn the fan off (so you dont brake a blade) I would stick with the OEM fan.

 

Gadget says my injectors are causing my ping issue at 2000 rpm. I'm going to clean them. The AFR calibrator is fine.

 

I dont think he's right but it wouldnt hurt to clean them. You would think that if clogged injectors are causing the AFR to be too low, you would get low AFR's throughout the RPM range. Im pretty sure you ping because at 2000 RPM's you are still in closed loop and the ECU is still trimming for a 14.7 AFR. What you really need is an AFR calibrator and maybe even a piggy back that can retard timing (unless the 7th controller can do this, I dont remember).

 

Im pretty sure he has an AFR calibrator and the 7th controller does retard timing as well. I'm thinking the AFR calibrator needs to be tweaked some..

 

I have the AFR calibrator and Gadget says it's fine. I'm thinking the same thing you are with the injectors. I'm probably going to buy new OEM ones. It pings around 2000rpm, but is fine anywhere else. And AFR is 12 when it pings, so I don't see why I would be low on fuel. I'm going to play with timing around 1500-3000rpm and see if it might need more retard. I smoothed it from 9.5psi so maybe it needs more down low. I had too much retard last tune and it would bog down, but I got that fixed now.

Mine can't be tweaked, since my AIC and AFR calibrators were designed as a single kit back in the day. It's the same one the 4runner guy has in that link I posted a while back.

 

I just scrapped my tune and re-loaded the stock tune Gadget sent me. It's about 30 degrees warmer out today than the last few days, and today my truck was pinging quite a bit more down low. I'm going to start fresh again. My tune was so screwed up I wouldn't know where to begin.

On a side note, ebay had an injector rebuild kit that I bought for $25. I will give it a try. I'm going to ease off my truck for a while until I can get some engine maintenance done like injectors, timing belt, 170 degree thermostat, TRD radiator cap, and maybe the water/meth kit. I might go back to the factory pulley since that's what Gadget recommends with fuel issues.

 

Well, I'm finally back at work so I'm back with the truck and I'm fixing to start on the testing.

Going to install the fuel pressure gauge to see what i'm running at. Then going to swap out the WIX fuel filter for an OEM one and see if there is any difference. If i'm getting plenty of fuel pressure, i'm going to assume that I have an issue with my stock injectors. Might have to get them cleaned at that point.

I also bought the programmable AFR calibrator so that I can actually adjust the AFR in closed loop mode. Also have my edge insight that shows when i'm in closed and open loop so i can adjust accordingly.

Couple of questions.

What kind of fuel pressure should i be looking for?

Hooking up the AFR calibrator along with the AIC/T from URD, there are 4 wires to hook up on the AFR calibrator. 3 of those wires tie into the same exact wires that the AIC/T does.

One wire is the Red AFR wire, Function B+, ECU Location Plug E Pin 16

Next wire is Yellow w/black stripe AFR Wire, Function IGF (RPM), ECU Location Plug A Pin 25

Third wire is Pink w/ Blue Stripe AFR Wire, Function AF1+, ECU Location Plug B Pin 12

On these 3 wires, do I just tie them into the same spot where they are soldered already? I assume that the AFR Calibrator is just getting a signal from those wires since the instructions don't say anything about cutting a splicing into a wire as they did in the AIC/T. I'm going to try and get to the bottom of this in the next few days.