High octane= higher perf.

I got a weekend off from my Index racing so thought Id go back to the track tonight with the Tacoma and bracket race it. My son will get a kick out of it, it will be his first time down the track as well.

Question is will a much higher octane allow quite a bit more timing giving more performance for tonight? Last time out, or the only time Ive ran it I had a full tank of 87 octane and 2 big buddys riding along plus a ton of tools (maybe 4-600) pounds worth in the bed not to mention the camper on the back to, lol. I will still able to get a 10 flat out of it which really surprised me. It's a double cab long bed 4x4 4.0L all stock with factory tires and less than 13k miles on the clock.

I fiqure I will get down there close to empty and put about a 1/4 tank of 93 octane and a bottle of 7 point booster I picked up at the store, that should give me around 100 octane. Plus I will have the bed completely cleaned out, with no extra weight in the truck anywhere.

Just curious to see 9's and how far into the 9's in might go, whats others opinion on this. Also thought I'd pull the filter from the factory box for just those few runs, do you think it would make a lick of diff. or not worth the time? Any other helpful hints I could try for tonight to ease another thou. from her? Thanks

Tucker

 

Well it ran the same, 100 octane is worth nothing in e.t. or mph, removing the factory air filter was at least worth 6 hundreds. Still 10 flat, didn't see that 9.999 I wanted. Oh well

 

Gadget ran his truck on a dyno with no filter and gained zero HP.... He did this all for our piece of mind, and that's how we know the OEM air filter flows just fine.

Now throwing an aftermarket intake system may yield results..... Depending on the intake.


If u rlly wanna play on the strip and get thumbs up, force feed that thing.

 

Did ur stuff in a can REALLY bring the octane up ya think?

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/196656-1-8-mile.html

 

The filter did what it did, I made to many passes to prove that. It would run a 10.03 w/o and no better than .09 or .10 with it. Yes I'd say the octane was the 99-100 that it was suppose to be, and it was worth nothing. I fiqured it would add some timing and be worth a bit at least, but no. And 4x4 is more drag than I'd though slowing it down quite a bit. I could spin in 2wd a half truck length and consistently run my .03's or leaving a lot harder with zero spin in 4 hi and only get mid teens, and it felt so much harder on the leave, proving to me its eating several hp.

Na I have a 4 second door car not planning to ever touch this truck or even run it again for that matter, but was curious to how it would run and wanted to see a 9.99 just because of running 10 flats last time with a full tank of 87. Truck runs great and Im very happy with, it tows my door car to the track every other weekend in a 24' enclosed trailer and does it well, all it needed was the air bags on the back to help hold it up. Great truck, millage is my only slight complaint, but oh well.

 

Ya lost me...... But I'd prolly agree with u anyhow

 

What's that mean?
Is there one practical bolt on that stands out as working really well on these trucks? Not a SC or something that drastic, just something that adds a nice noticeable power increase and might add 1 mpg? Seems a tuner would be the choice but I understand Toyota is diff. than most in the tuner area. Also not interested in a CAI the factory setup seems very good to me. I'd consider a muffler replacement If thiers one that stands out from the others and is not loud. Anyone? The racer in me would still love to see a 9.9x from it once and then forget it, lol. I have a 5.80 race tonight so I get my racing fix often

 

My search just came up with lady's handbags.........

 

100%

 

Higher Octane will only really give you a performance boost on these trucks if you can either increase your compression, or increase airMASS. The computer will only advance the timing up to a predetermined amount, and no higher, even with high octane fuel. The engine can only benefit so much from increasing the timing before you hit the flat-spot, and then it does more damage than good. So for octane to help with any real level of significance, you would need to supercharge or turbocharge the engine.

Airflow in or airflow out (or a combination of course) will help with some performance as it allows your engine to breath better under a load. (concept being that you can breath just fine through a large straw, but try to run a sprint while breathing through the same straw, and you can't)

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine

It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's VVT-i, variable valve timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1.

 

Over my head I quess then, I just thought I'd share some real world experience from the track last night that's all. Ive been racing every other weekend for 22+ years, everything from Dragsters, Front engine Fuel Altereds, back half door cars, ect... no more was going to be gotten from it as far as driving, and time slips don't lie. I made 7 passes before I even thought of pulling the factory air cleaner, and another 9 passes aftwards so I have zero dought as to what I found. Either way at that weight .06 is a very small hp gain anyhow, but I promise you it was a gain. And I would not run a perf. filter in this engine even If it was giving to me free. Im good the the more restricitive stocker, I want all the dirt caught. Ive seen what passes through filters like the K@N's, I also build all my own engines. No augument here again just passing along what 'I' found.......

 

Cool thanks. Sounds right then, only 3 hp added from the higher octane and no more after that with even 9 more points of added octane. I'd say the filter was def. holding back more than that to add even just the .05

 

Yeah, octane doesnt "add" power per se, some engines just run better with higher octane, generally based on their compression ratio. Rule of thumb is higher comp ratio = higher octane requirements. Most commercial engines get along just fine with 87 octane. I think its more accurate to say that high performing engines require high octane gas.

As far as bolt on performance, you will find Toyota's products are generally top performing. They use high flow intakes, exhaust, cats, mufflers, etc... specifically designed for the target power of that engine. Messing with these systems won't exactly add power, it will just change where the power shows up on the dyno curve. The only "bolt on" performance you will really notice is if you bolt on a supercharger

 

Maf calibrator

Headers

Intake........ Shit, I forgot the stocker was ur cup o tea....

Y pipe

Non chambered muffler (no chokemaster)

As a straight line racer for 22yrs I'm sure u already took into account losing the spare, tailgate, airing up, ditching any excess weight,

 

Octane booster points are a tenth of octane, so a 7 point booster is actually 0.7 increase ie. 93 + .7 = 93.7

 

Accually I added almost 6 Gall of Phillips red 114 for what I fiqured was a 99-100 true octane mix. I said booster to be simple.

 

Good info and thanks. I agree that Toyota prob. has their shit together and close to nailed the tune up already, just wanted other experienced voice and opinions. I really enjoy driving the truck as is, the pedal is very linear and predicable. Was even surprised with how the tranny felt at the track, I was keeping a close eye on everything through the Scan Guage, heck the tranny temp never even would climb a single degree on a pass so you know its happy and efficent