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Question about regearing

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by InTheRough, Jun 29, 2014.

  1. Jun 29, 2014 at 12:30 PM
    #1
    InTheRough

    InTheRough [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I get the concept of the different gear ratios and I would like to go a little higher but I have never actually re-geared. I have a 08 4x4 3.73 but would like to go with either the 4.11 or 4.56. I just don't know enough about it. I would rather go with 4.56 but have found a good deal on a set of rear 4.11's. I would still need to get 4.11's for the IFS.

    I have 285/75R16 tires, ARB Front, Warn winch, Sliders and Canopy w/rack&basket. I will be adding Skids and H/C rear bumper. Plus I would like to be able to tow toys a bit easier.

    My main question is:
    What are the necessary parts to re-gear?

    Do I just need the ring and pinions (front and rear) or do I need all new "gear pack"?
     
  2. Jun 30, 2014 at 8:46 AM
    #2
    InTheRough

    InTheRough [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is it necessary to purchase a Master install kit or can I just clean the bearings that are there?
    Are spacers and shims necessary?
    Are the rear gears different between E-locker and non E-locker?
    Is the front 7.5"?
     
  3. Jul 2, 2014 at 8:25 PM
    #3
    Eggbert

    Eggbert Well-Known Member

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    TRD Supercharger, MBRP DualCatback, DT Shortie Headers, Regeared with 4.56 ECGS 3rd and Clamshell, URD 2.55" Stealth pulley, AEM Methanol 5 gallon kit, URD Perf Thermostat, NST Lightweight crank pulley, URD 61lb injectors, Mishimoto Oil Catch Can, URD Fuel Pump upgrade, AEM Boost and Wideband gauges, OEM FPR Mod, RBP Black Exhaust Tips, Icon Stage 6, Fuel Octane wheels, Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/70/r17, Color match rear bumper, Color match hood with skewp, Color match grill, Color match valance, Derped grill emblem, Derped Tuffbar bullbar, OEM Skidplate, AVS Ventvisors, Bodyside Moldings, RBP RX3 nerf bars, Color Match Bushwacker Pocket Flares/Rivets, Undercover LE Tonneau, Katzkin heated leather, Bel Stir-Plus Radar, Sprint Booster, Dynamat/Hushpad, Polk dxi691 - front, Polk dx1651 - rear, Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack, Front tint 35 percent, Weathertech front mats, Smoked tail lights, LED DRLs, Coupe TRD Battery tie-down, Coupe TRD CAI Cover
    Just get the assembled 3rd and clamshell from ECGS then send them your cores. Easy Peasy
     
  4. Jul 2, 2014 at 8:32 PM
    #4
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    If you have to ask these questions then you're not ready to setup gears. Im not giving you a hard time. It is really a very precisely performed job that you won't know if its wrong until the gears eat themselves. Installing the diff on the otherhand is an easy day.
     
  5. Jul 2, 2014 at 9:06 PM
    #5
    InTheRough

    InTheRough [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I appreciate the information but that isn't really what I am asking.

    Thank you... That was very helpful...

    Have you ever had to ask someone information about something that you are trying to learn about. Just because I have never done it before doesn't mean I can't learn to do it.

    Now again, is there someone actually answer the question?
     
  6. Jul 2, 2014 at 9:58 PM
    #6
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Check out the east coast gear supply website for most of the answers.

    If you choose to do the job you should use a master rebuild kit and get the solid noncrush spacer for the pinion.

    You may or may not need the shims. Thats the hard part, setting backlash and preload. You can probably find a you tube video on setting them up. I would recommend getting a scrap 3rd to practice with before you mess with new parts.

    Enjoy. Don't be so sensitive. FYI all of these have been answered on this site before. If you're serious about learning start searching, and assume most everything is only half right.
     
  7. Jul 2, 2014 at 10:09 PM
    #7
    TacoMitch93

    TacoMitch93 Tasty Taco

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    I am no expert in diff's but I have rebuilt a couple transmissions in the Celica I had. There are a lot of little parts that can go missing.

    When you're taking it apart use muffin tins as a parts organizer, they work so awesome and you can get them super cheap.


    I feel like Surgie was just looking out for you, nothing he said was hateful. No one wants to spend shit tons of money on something to mash gears. They pricy.
     
  8. Jul 2, 2014 at 10:26 PM
    #8
    InTheRough

    InTheRough [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Not trying to be sensitive. I have been searching around and have found lots of threads but no answers. People keep saying the same type of things; going around the question or the answer is completely vague. I hate to harp on it but you say "... you should use a master rebuild kit..." At first I was thinking it wouldn't be as necessary as it seemed everyone was making it seem. The thought that kept running through my head was "If size of the pinion shaft doesn't change then why is it necessary to change those out vs clean them out." Considering my truck has 125k it would probably be good to change those out anyways.

    I don't plan on taking this task on by myself. My father is has been a mechanic for 25 years and I am sure he knows most of what I am trying to do. I am fairly mechanically inclined but for the projects that I can't do myself I ask him.

    The problem is that if I go up to him and say "Hey dad, I am re-gearing my truck, can you help me?" then he will just go on and on about how I don't need to waste my money or why not to do it. On the other hand, if I do the research first, show an initiative and possibly even source out the parts then most of the time he will help me with what I can't do myself.
     
  9. Jul 2, 2014 at 10:57 PM
    #9
    InTheRough

    InTheRough [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Rock Warrior wheels
  10. Jul 3, 2014 at 10:37 AM
    #10
    Eggbert

    Eggbert Well-Known Member

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    '14 dcsb TRD OR Supercharged
    TRD Supercharger, MBRP DualCatback, DT Shortie Headers, Regeared with 4.56 ECGS 3rd and Clamshell, URD 2.55" Stealth pulley, AEM Methanol 5 gallon kit, URD Perf Thermostat, NST Lightweight crank pulley, URD 61lb injectors, Mishimoto Oil Catch Can, URD Fuel Pump upgrade, AEM Boost and Wideband gauges, OEM FPR Mod, RBP Black Exhaust Tips, Icon Stage 6, Fuel Octane wheels, Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/70/r17, Color match rear bumper, Color match hood with skewp, Color match grill, Color match valance, Derped grill emblem, Derped Tuffbar bullbar, OEM Skidplate, AVS Ventvisors, Bodyside Moldings, RBP RX3 nerf bars, Color Match Bushwacker Pocket Flares/Rivets, Undercover LE Tonneau, Katzkin heated leather, Bel Stir-Plus Radar, Sprint Booster, Dynamat/Hushpad, Polk dxi691 - front, Polk dx1651 - rear, Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack, Front tint 35 percent, Weathertech front mats, Smoked tail lights, LED DRLs, Coupe TRD Battery tie-down, Coupe TRD CAI Cover

    Option 1 is what I was suggesting earlier. Why would you go with option 2 when you never know how good a local shop is going to be and the final price might be more than option 1? Plus, with ECGS doing it, you know they won't screw it up.
     
  11. Jul 3, 2014 at 1:37 PM
    #11
    pLon

    pLon Well-Known Member

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  12. Jul 3, 2014 at 1:42 PM
    #12
    pLon

    pLon Well-Known Member

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  13. Jul 3, 2014 at 1:46 PM
    #13
    TacoMitch93

    TacoMitch93 Tasty Taco

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    MY DAD IS THE EXACT SAME WAY!!!!!!!!!!
    He's been a Toyota mechanic for 24 years.
     

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